French Polynesia and the Society Islands
07 April 2025
Before we left for Sweden, we left Anastacia in the marina at Santa Cruz de La Palma. We had reserved a place for her for a month. After 3 weeks in Sweden with many visits from family and friends and intensive work with wallpapering, painting and flooring, we were back at Anastacia. We had to leave after a week so we took the opportunity to explore the island by car. The first thing that struck us was that there is so much greenery here! Each island in the Canary Archipelago is truly unique in its own right. On La Palma, of course, you can see many volcanic formations and caves, but here also flourish large pine forests of the special Canary pine with long needles that help retain moisture from the fog and clouds that often sweep around the high volcanic peaks. The pine forest thins out somewhat the higher up you travel on the Roque de los Muchachos volcanic mountains, which is also the island's highest elevation. It stretches just over 2,400 m above sea level with its base about 4,500 m below sea level! Only Teide in Tenerife is slightly higher. On the island there are also remnants of old primeval forest (Laural forest) similar to the one we saw on Madeira. The forests are habitats for several native/endemic plants and animals, not least various finches (canaries? đ). Over a third of the island's surface is therefore also designated by UNESCO as a "World Biosphere Reserve".
On Roque de
los Muchachos there is a large observatory (Observatorio del Roque de los
Muchachos, ORM) with over 12 different telescopes spread over the area. The
activities here take place in close collaboration with the Teide observatory on
Tenerife. Since cloud formation usually occurs at lower altitudes, the air is
clear and visibility is surprisingly good all year round, and the location is
therefore well suited for stargazing. We could see the various telescopes from
a little distance and visited the new visitor center right next door. Here, a
smorgasbord of in-depth information, in digital and interactive multimedia
form, was given about the observatory and the various telescopes. There are
different variants of reflecting and radio telescopes for different purposes
and which complement each other in order to better investigate galaxies, black
holes, exoplanets, black matter and contribute to important research about the
universe. A Swedish telescope, the Swedish Solar Telescope, is, for example,
particularly focused on exploring the sun in order to understand its influence
on the earth. Some telescopes are from the 80s and others are being built now.
The observatory also has the 10.4-meter diameter Grand Telescope Canarias,
which is the largest of its kind in the world. We also learned that La Palma,
as the first country (actually Spain) in the world, has designated the island
as a starlight reserve. Preserving and protecting its scientific, cultural as
well as environmental values in something called "Declaration in Defense
of the Night Sky and the Right to Starlight" also called "La Palma
Starlight Declaration" or "The Sky Law":
An
unpolluted night sky that allows the enjoyment and contemplation of the
firmament should be considered an inalienable right equivalent to all other
socio-cultural and environmental rights ...
Something
we hope more countries will implement.
As the IT
geeks we are, after all, we were impressed by the many different digital
installations at the center where you could study the various telescopes in
detail and get almost spectacular presentations of the discoveries made at the
observatory. Were impressed by the digital installations that worked,
that is. A third of them were unfortunately out of order and therefore the ticket price
was also halved, until the technicians get all the equipment up and running
again. What would a modern visitor facility be without a little IT hassle!
After two hours we felt the museum fatigue syndrome and were suddenly not very
interested in more multimedia galaxy experiences. It was time to leave the
center, which we highly recommend!
We headed to the south-western part of the island. Cultivations and banana plantations spread here. Bananas and tourism are two of the most important sources of income on the island. However, we were looking to see the area where the last volcanic eruption took place. In mid-September 2021, the Tajogaite volcano erupted and lava flowed until mid-December. We read that 7,000 residents were evacuated but no one has died (?!) as a result of the eruption. A 1,000-hectare area facing the sea was devastated, villages were buried and roads were destroyed so areas were cut off with no possibility of connection with the rest of the island, except from the sea. The land area also increased in the western direction with a small new peninsula. The reconstruction of the devastated areas is still ongoing and the costs are enormous. We drove on one of the newly built roads over the area and could see how the lava had flowed forward and buried houses where we could even see how the lava had flowed out through the walls. An almost apocalyptic view that made us ponder the forces of nature.
On our way back towards Santa Cruz, we came across a small museum next to a cave and settlement where the original inhabitants, the Guanches, had lived. Here there would also be cave paintings/carvings on the cave walls. Unfortunately, the museum had closed for the day so we couldn't visit the place. Pitty. Hopefully we can return another time.
Santa Cruz, the island's capital, is also worth seeing. In the city you can see statues of short figures a large hat similar to the one Napoleon is said to have worn. The figures are also sold in souvenir shops and toy shops and have become a symbol of La Palma. We asked some clerks what these strange dwarf-like figures stand for and were told that they had nothing to do with Napoleon, but were otherwise very tight-lipped about what they represented. In the end we found out that here, every five years, they celebrate a Catholic holiday in honor of the Snow Maiden (Virgen de las Nieves). She is considered to be the patroness of the island and during this great celebration several different performances take place. Among other things, a group of men, disguised as dwarfs with these big hats, dance to a traditional polka. The dancing continues well into the early morning to the delight of the islanders. The holiday is well known and much appreciated. In 2025 it is time again for this holiday. Please see https://visitlapalma.es/en/fiestas/bajada-de-la-virgen-de-las-nieves/ However, the celebration that we got to experience in the city was of a different kind. The Ministry of Festivities (why don't we have such an authority in Sweden?) had decided that the start of the Christmas celebrations in Santa Cruz this year, should be inaugurated with a drone show! We just couldn't miss this. Late in the evening on the 25th of November, we were on the promenade together with thousands of islanders and tourists to celebrate that Christmas is approaching. First, veeery long speeches were given, including by the city's mayor, and then the Christmas celebration was declared with a light show consisting of 200 light-equipped drones which, in various formations, showed colorful figures in the sky. This was followed by fireworks and then a countdown to the lighting of all the city's led-lit Christmas decorations. Then it was time for various performances and authentic Spanish singer of sentimental songs with local artists in one of the city's squares. So fun to be a part of this and what an impressive drone display! Since the Christmas celebration is now officially declared, we took the opportunity to buy a solar-powered led-leash for Anastacia. She will be so beautiful! đ
Now the stay on La Palma is over and we are, at the time of writing, heading east towards the north side of Tenerife for further sailing towards Gran Canaria and Las Palmas. During the sailing today, we were lucky enough to have several visits from a large flock of Atlantic spotted dolphins, which played and breached around the boat. They are truly acrobats and we saw them breach and jump several meters above the surface of the water before landing with a big splash. (Christer was about to jump out of his shoes himself when he first heard them behind the boat đ). A fantastic experience that we kept to ourselves this time and did not film.
šššššššššššššš
Innan vi gav oss ivĂ€g till Sverige lĂ€mnade vi Anastacia i marinan pĂ„ Santa Cruz de La Palma. Vi hade bokat plats Ă„t henne för en mĂ„nad. Efter 3 veckor i Sverige med mĂ„nga besök av familj och vĂ€nner och intensivt arbete med tapetsering, mĂ„lning och golvlĂ€ggning var vi tillbaks pĂ„ Anastacia. Vi hade en vecka pĂ„ oss innan vi behövde ge oss av sĂ„ vi passade pĂ„ att utforska ön med bil. Det första som slog oss var att hĂ€r finns sĂ„ mycket grönska! Varje ö i Kanariearkipelagen Ă€r verkligen unik i sig. PĂ„ La Palma ser man sĂ„klart mĂ„nga vulkaniska formationer och grottor men hĂ€r frodas Ă€ven stora tallskogar av den speciella kanarietallen med lĂ„nga barr som bidrar till att behĂ„lla fukten frĂ„n dimman och molnen som ofta sveper runt de höga vulkantopparna. Tallskogen glesas ut nĂ„got ju högre upp man fĂ€rdas pĂ„ vulkankedjan Roque de los Muchachos som ocksĂ„ utgör öns högsta höjd. Den strĂ€cker sig dryga 2 400 m över havet med sin bas ca 4 500 m under havsytan! Det Ă€r bara Teide pĂ„ Teneriffa som Ă€r nĂ„got högre. PĂ„ ön finns ocksĂ„ rester av gammal urskog (Laural forest) liknande den vi sĂ„g pĂ„ Madeira. Skogarna utgör habitat för flera inhemska/endemiska vĂ€xter och djur, inte minst olika finkar (kanariefĂ„glar? đ). Ăver en tredjedel av öns yta Ă€r följaktligen ocksĂ„ utsedd av UNESCO till âWorld Biosphere Reserveâ.
PĂ„ Roque de los Muchachos finns ett stort observatorium (Observatorio
del Roque de los Muchachos, ORM) med över 12 olika teleskop utspridda över
omrÄdet. Verksamheten hÀr sker i nÀra samarbete med Teideobservatoriet pÄ
Teneriffa. Eftersom molnbildningen oftast sker pÄ lÀgre höjder Àr luften klar
och sikten förvÄnansvÀrt god Äret om och platsen Àr dÀrför vÀl lÀmpad för stjÀrnskÄdning.
Vi kunde se de olika teleskopen pÄ lite avstÄnd och besökte det nya besökscentret
strax intill. HÀr gavs ett smörgÄsbord av fördjupande information, i digital
och interaktiv multimedial form, om observatoriet och de olika teleskopen. Det
Àr olika varianter av spegel- och radioteleskop för skilda ÀndamÄl och som
kompletterar varandra för att bÀttre kunna undersöka galaxer, svarta hÄl,
exoplaneter, svart materia och bidra till viktig forskning om universum. Ett svenskt
teleskop, Swedish Solar Telescope, Àr t ex sÀrskilt inriktat pÄ att utforska
solen för att förstÄ dess pÄverkan pÄ jorden. Vissa teleskop Àr frÄn 80-talet
och andra hÄller pÄ att byggas nu. PÄ observatoriet finns ocksÄ det 10,4 meter i
diameter stora Grand Telescope Canarias som Àr det största i sitt slag i
vÀrlden. Vi fick ocksÄ lÀra oss att La Palma, som första land (egentligen
Spanien) i vÀrlden, har utsett ön till stjÀrnljusreservat (Starlight reserve). Man vÀrnar om och skyddar dess
vetenskapliga, kulturella sÄvÀl som miljömÀssiga vÀrden i nÄgot som kallas
âDeclaration in Defence of the Night Sky and the Right to Starlightâ Ă€ven kallat
âLa Palma Starlight Declarationâ eller âThe Sky Lawâ:
An unpolluted night sky that allows the enjoyment and contemplation of the
firmament should be considered an inalienable right equivalent to all other
socio-cultural and environmental rights ...
NÄgot vi hoppas fler lÀnder implementerar.
Som de IT-nördar vi trots allt Àr, imponerades vi av de
mÄnga olika digitala installationerna pÄ centret dÀr man i detalj kunde studera
de olika teleskopen och fÄ nÀrmast spektakulÀra presentationer av de upptÀckter
som gjorts pÄ observatoriet. Imponerades av de digitala installationerna som
fungerade, vill sÀga. En tredjedel var tyvÀrr ur funktion och dÀrför var
ocksÄ biljettpriset halverat, tills teknikerna fÄr igÄng all utrustning igen.
Vad vore vÀl en modern besöksanlÀggning utan lite IT-krÄngel! Efter tvÄ timmar
kÀnde vi av museitrötthetssyndromet och var plötsligt inte sÀrskilt
intresserade av fler multimediala galaxupplevelser. Det var dags att lÀmna
centret som vi dock varmt rekommenderar!
Vi begav oss till öns sydvÀstra del. HÀr bredde odlingar och bananplanteringar ut sig. Bananer och turism Àr för övrigt tvÄ av de viktigaste inkomstkÀllorna pÄ ön. Vi var dock ute efter att fÄ se omrÄdet dÀr det senaste vulkanutbrottet Àgt rum. I mitten av september 2021 fick vulkanen Tajogaite ett utbrott och lava flöt fram Ànda till mitten av december. Vi lÀste att 7 000 invÄnare evakuerades men ingen har omkommit (?!) till följd av utbrottet. Ett 1 000 hektar stort omrÄde ut mot havet ödelades, byar begravdes och vÀgar förstördes sÄ omrÄden skars av utan möjlighet till förbindelse med resten av ön, utom frÄn havet. LandomrÄdet ökade dessutom i vÀstlig riktning med en liten ny halvö. à teruppbyggnaden av de ödelagda omrÄdena pÄgÄr fortfarande och kostnaderna Àr enorma. Vi körde pÄ en av de nylagda vÀgarna över omrÄdet och kunde se hur lavan hade vÀllt fram och begravt hus dÀr vi t o m kunde se hur lavan runnit ut genom vÀggarna. En nÀrmast apokalyptisk syn som fick oss att begrunda naturens krafter.
PÄ vÄr vÀg tillbaka mot Santa Cruz stötte vi pÄ ett litet museum intill en grotta och boplats dÀr urinvÄnarna, Guanches, hade levt. HÀr skulle det ocksÄ finns grottmÄlningar/ristningar pÄ grottvÀggarna. TyvÀrr hade muséet hunnit stÀnga för dagen sÄ vi kunde inte besöka platsen. Synd. Förhoppningsvis kan vi Äterkomma en annan gÄng.
Santa Cruz, öns huvudort, Ă€r ocksĂ„ sevĂ€rd. I staden kan man se statyer av korta figurer en stor hatt liknande den Napoleon lĂ€r ha burit. Figurerna sĂ€ljs ocksĂ„ i souvenirbutiker och leksaksaffĂ€rer och har blivit en symbol för La Palma. Vi frĂ„gade nĂ„gra expediter om vad dessa mĂ€rkliga dvĂ€rgliknande figurer betyder och fick till svar att de inte hade med Napoleon att göra men i övrigt var de mycket förtegna om vad de representerade. Till slut tog vi reda pĂ„ att man hĂ€r, vart femte Ă„r, firar en katolsk högtid till snöjungfruns (Virgen de las Nieves) Ă€ra. Hon anses vara öns beskyddarinna och vid detta stora firande Ă€ger flera olika upptrĂ€danden rum. Bl a dansar en grupp mĂ€n, förklĂ€dda till dvĂ€rgar med dessa stora hattar, till en traditionell polka. Dansen fortsĂ€tter lĂ„ngt in pĂ„ smĂ„timmarna till öbornas förtjusning. Högtiden Ă€r vĂ€l kĂ€nd och mycket uppskattad. 2025 Ă€r det dags igen för denna högtid. Se gĂ€rna https://visitlapalma.es/en/fiestas/bajada-de-la-virgen-de-las-nieves/ Det firande som vi fick uppleva i staden var dock av ett annat slag. Departementet för festligheter (varför har vi inte en sĂ„dan myndighet i Sverige?) hade beslutat att starten pĂ„ julfirandet i Santa Cruz i Ă„r skall invigas med en drönarshow! Detta kunde vi bara inte missa. Sent pĂ„ kvĂ€llen den 25 november var vi pĂ„ plats vid strandpromenaden tillsammans med tusentals öbor och turister för att fira att julen Ă€r i antĂ„gande. Först hölls lĂ„Ă„Ă„nga tal, bl a av stadens borgmĂ€stare, och sedan förklarades julfirandet för invigt med en ljusshow bestĂ„ende av 200 ljusförsedda drönare som, i olika formationer, visade fĂ€rgglada figurer pĂ„ himlen. DĂ€refter följde fyrverkerier och sedan nedrĂ€kning för tĂ€ndandet av stadens alla ledbelysta juldekorationer. Sedan var det dags för olika upptrĂ€danden och Ă€kta spansk smörsĂ„ng med lokala artister pĂ„ ett av stadens torg. SĂ„ roligt att fĂ„ vara med om detta och vilken imponerande drönaruppvisning! Eftersom julfirandet nu Ă€r officiellt invigt passade vi pĂ„ att köpa en solcellsdriven ledslinga till Anastacia. Hon kommer att bli sĂ„ fin! đ
Nu Ă€r vistelsen pĂ„ La Palma över och vi Ă€r, i skrivande stund, pĂ„ vĂ€g österut mot nordsidan av Teneriffa för vidare segling mot Gran Canaria och Las Palmas. Vi har under seglingen haft turen att fĂ„ flera besök av en stor flock med tygeldefiner/flĂ€ckig delfin (Atlantic spotted dolphin) som har lekt och hoppat runt bĂ„ten. De Ă€r verkligen riktiga akrobater och vi sĂ„g dem hoppa flera meter högt över vattenytan innan de landade med ett stort plask. (Christer höll pĂ„ att sjĂ€lv hoppa ur skorna nĂ€r han först hörde dem bakom bĂ„ten đ). En fantastisk upplevelse som vi denna gĂ„ng behöll för oss sjĂ€lva och inte filmade.
La Palma
Observatorio del Roque de losMuchachos
Impact from Tajogaite Volcano
Santa Cruz de La Palma and Cristmas decoration and Inaguration of Christmas Celebration
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