S/Y Anastacia CircumnavigationWe are a Swedish couple in their mid 50s who decided to live out our dream. This is our story.daily1
https://sy-anastacia.skipperblogs.com
Thu, 24 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000Cook Islands and AitutakiMalin<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Aitutaki belongs to the southern group of the Cook
Islands and is an “almost” atoll with a large coral reef around the entire
island and several small islands inside the surrounding lagoon. We had good
winds but also high waves when we sailed to the island, so it was a rough four
days sailing for us. Since we had sailed a little faster than expected, we
sailed the last few nautical miles with only a small headsail in order to
arrive after sunrise. To get to the island, you have to pass through a narrow channel
on the northwest side and this has to be done in daylight. Once inside the
small harbor at the larger town of Arutanga, we noticed that we were the only
visiting boat. The harbor is under construction and actually consists of a
large basin that is being excavated. The excavator was in full swing and the
water was completely brown from all the mud that had been suspended. We
anchored in the basin and found that the depth was around 2 meters in some
places and were getting stuck in the mud as Anastacia’s draft is 2.05 m. After
being checked by authorities from the biosecurity, health, immigration and
customs, we were able to take down the yellow Q flag and raise the Cook Islands
courtesy flag. We were welcome ashore!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">A little later that day, the catamaran Valentin
appeared with a German crew and anchored behind us in the basin. Jürgen and
Heiki were a nice couple and we quickly got along well with them. We decided to move
Anastacia and instead anchor on the outside of the atoll. Now the catamaran had
the entire basin at its disposal 😊. Outside the reef, the water was much clearer and we
had enough protection from the waves, although the flat island itself does not
provide any protection from the wind. We anchored on a shelf in the coral reef
and floated the chain so as not to damage the corals or get caught with the
chain. The weather forecast warned of winds of up to 30 knots during the Easter
weekend so we wanted to make sure that Anastacia was in a good position. Later,
the Canadian boat Timmies-Run appeared and had the same problem as we had in the
shallows in the basin so that boat also had to anchor the outside reef. We had many nice sundowners on our boats...</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The Cook Islands archipelago is named after Captain
James Cook who visited the islands in the 18th century. Since the beginning of
the 20th century, the islands have belonged to New Zealand and thus also to
Great Britain but now have greater autonomy. Previously, different Polynesian
dialects were spoken on the different islands but it is mainly the older
generation that master the indigenous languages because it was banned for several
years in schools in favor of English. Nowadays, the rules have been relaxed and
a Maori dialect is now an official language on the islands along with English.
Aitutaki is the second largest of the Cook Islands after the main island of
Rarotonga and is an incredibly beautiful atoll that is often compared to Bora
Bora. The islanders themselves say that Aitutaki is paradise on earth. About
1200 people live here and most are Christians belonging to one of the several
different faith communities represented on the island. All
with their own church or meeting place.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">To see around, we were recommended to rent scooters.
We went to the nearest rental company and booked two. I happily thought how
nice it would be to drive my own scooter because otherwise we always just used
to rent a scooter that Christer used to drive and where I sat behind. My
experience can certainly be accommodated in a few hours of moped driving about
10 years ago, but this looked so easy! Everyone droves scooters on the island.
Old and young! After a brief introduction to the few and simple controls of the
means of transport, Christer drove off a bit further down the road. We had
agreed that he would drive ahead of me as he was more used to left-hand traffic.
I tried to follow but it was coming to an end with horror when I crossed the
road. Acceleration, keeping my balance and finding the right brakes was just
too much. Then I had to turn too - preferably BEFORE the ditch appeared...
halfway into the ditch I managed to stop my vehicle. A lady in the car right
behind me asked compassionately if everything was okay. She had seen me swaying
away and was genuinely concerned. I thanked her for her concern and said I was
fine. Then I realized that I was actually a traffic hazard and that there would
probably be no more scootering for me. My self-confidence had taken a hit and I
muttered something to Christer who quickly understood the situation and without
any major fuss gave my scooter back and offered me a seat on his instead. Then
he looked really pleased when I sat behind him, and exclaimed "This
actually feels much safer. Now I know where I have you!" I muttered
something like “Yes, yes. I can’t do everything” and so we didn’t discuss the
matter anymore… For the next two days we explored the small island, found
beautiful viewpoints and drove on all the back roads we could find. We
sometimes stopped for coffee and lunch and had a great time 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Easter weekend is celebrated in a traditional way on
the island, as the Christian holiday it really is, in memory of Jesus’ death
and resurrection. No Easter eggs, Easter bunnies,
sweets or easter witches. No feasting and lavish meals. Here you go to your
church and attend the services throughout the weekend and spend time with your
family. Together with our German friends, we therefore chose to go to the
island's largest and oldest church on Easter Day. The church was built almost
200 years ago and is simple but beautiful. Most of the visitors from the local
population were brightly dressed and the ladies wore large, bright straw hats
with flowers in them. The service was a pleasant experience with many different
speakers and a, not too long, sermon in the name of joy. Throughout the
ceremony, there were many breaks for beautiful choir singing. Some messages to
the local population with information about upcoming events were also given, as
well as some welcoming words to us tourists who had gathered in the church.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After the strong wind during the Easter weekend, the
wind has almost completely died down and we are waiting for the next weather
window to be able to set off. We have passed the time with some snorkeling
around the boat and have slowly started preparing for departure for Niue
together with the Canadian boat together with the Canadian boat that has some problems with the electronics on board and is happy to join us as they are heading to the same destination.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Aitutaki tillhör den södra ögruppen av Cooköarna och är en
”nästan”atoll med ett stort korallrev runt hela ön och flera småöar innanför
den omgivande lagunen. Vi hade god vind men också höga vågor när vi seglade
till ön så det blev fyra skumpiga dygn för oss. Eftersom vi seglat lite
snabbare än beräknat seglade vi de sista sjömilen med bara lite försegel för
att kunna komma fram efter soluppgång. För at ta sig in till ön är man nämligen
tvungen att passera genom ett smalt sund på nordvästra sidan och det måste
göras i dagsljus. Väl inne i den lilla hamnen vid den större orten Arutanga konstaterade
vi att vi var den enda besökande båten. Hamnen är under uppbyggnad och består
egentligen av en stor bassäng som håller på att grävas ut. Grävmaskinen var i
full gång och vattnet var alldeles brunt av all uppslammad lera. Vi ankrade i
bassängen och konstaterade att djupet var runt 2 meter på vissa sällen och höll
på att fastna i lerbotten eftersom Anastacia sticker ner 2,05 m. Efter att ha
blivit kontrollerade av myndighetspersoner från miljö, hälsa, immigration och
tull kunde vi ta ner den gula Q-flaggan och hissa Cooköarnas gästflagga. Vi var
välkomna i land! </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Lite senare samma dag dök katamaranen Valentin upp med tysk
besättning och lade sig bakom oss i bassängen. Jürgen och Heiki var ett
trevligt par som vi snabbt fick bra kontakt med. Vi bestämde att byta plats på
Anatsacia och istället ankra på utsidan av atollen. Nu hade katamaranen hela
bassängen till sitt förfogande 😊 Utanför revet var vattnet mycket klarare och
vi hade tillräckligt skydd från vågorna även om den flacka ön i sig inte ger
något skydd för vinden. Vi ankrade på en avsats i korallrevet och bojade
kättingen för att inte skada korallerna eller fastna med kättingen. Väderprognosen
varnade för vindar uppåt 30 knop under påskhelgen så i vi ville vara säkra på
att Anastracia låg bra. Senare dök den kanadensiska båten Timmies-Run upp och
fick samma problem som vi haft i den grunda i bassängen så även den båten fick lägga
sig på utsidan revet. Vi hade många trevliga "sundowners" på våra respektive båtar...</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Ögruppen Cooköarna är döpt efter kapten James Cook som
besökte öarna på 1700-talet. Öarna tillhör sedan början av 1900-talet Nya
Zeeland och därmed också Storbritannien men har numera en större autonomi.
Tidigare talades olika polynesiska dialekter på de olika öarna men det är
främst den äldre generationen som behärskar ursprungsspråken eftersom det
förbjöds under flera år i skolorna till förmån för engelskan. Numera har man lättat på reglerna och en maoridialekt
utgör nu officiellt språk på öarna tillsammans med engelskan. Aitutaki är den
näst största av Cooköarna efter huvudön Rarotonga och är en otroligt vacker
atoll som ofta jämförs med Bora Bora. Öborna själva menar att Aitutaki är
paradiset på jorden. Här bor ca 1200 människor och de flesta är kristna
tillhörande någon av de flera olika trossamfund som finns representerade på ön.
Alla med sin egen kyrka eller samlingslokal.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">För att se oss omkring blev vi rekommenderade att hyra
skotrar. Vi gick till närmaste uthyrare och bokade två stycken. Glad i hågen
tänkte jag hur skönt det skulle bli att köra egen skoter eftersom vi annars
alltid bara brukade hyra en skoter som Christer brukade köra och där jag satt
bakom. Min erfarenhet kan visserligen inrymmas i några timmars mopedkörning för
en sisådär 10 år sedan men det här såg ju så enkelt ut! Alla körde ju skoter på
ön. Gammal som ung! Efter en kort introduktion av fortskaffningsmedlens få och
enkla reglage körde Christer iväg en bit bort på vägen. Vi hade kommit överens
om att han skulle köra före mig då han hade större vana vid vänstertrafik. Jag
försökte köra efter men det höll på att ta en ände med förskräckelse när jag
korsade vägen. Att gasa, hålla balansen och hitta rätt i bromsarna blev bara
för mycket. Sedan skulle jag ju svänga också - helst INNAN vägdiket dök upp… halvvägs
ut i diket fick jag stopp på mitt åkdon. En dam i bilen strax efter mig frågade
medlidsamt om allt stod rätt till. Hon hade sett mig vingla iväg och var
uppriktigt bekymrad. Jag tackade för omtänksamheten och sa att jag mådde prima.
Sedan insåg jag att jag egentligen utgjorde en trafikfara och att det nog inte
skulle bli mer skoterkörande för min del. Mitt självförtroende hade fått sig en
törn och jag fick mumlat något till Christer som snabbt förstod situationen och
utan några större åthävor lämnade tillbaka min skoter och erbjöd mig plats på
hans istället. Sedan såg han riktigt nöjd ut, när jag satt mig bakom honom, och
utbrast ”Det här känns faktiskt mycket säkrare. Nu vet jag var jag har dig!” Jag
muttrade något om att ”Ja, ja. Jag kan inte klara allt” och så diskuterade vi
inte den saken mer… Kommande två dagar utforskade vi den lilla ön, hittade
vackra utsiktsplatser och körde på alla småvägar vi kunde hitta. Vi stannade ibland
för fika och lunch och hade det hur mysigt som helst 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Påskhelgen firas på traditionellt sätt på ön, som den
kristna högtiden det egentligen är, till minne av Jesus död och uppståndelse. Inga
påskägg, påskharar, godis eller påskkärringar. Inget kalasande och överdådiga
måltider. Här går man till sin kyrka och deltar i gudstjänsterna under hela
helgen och umgås med familjen. Tillsammans med våra tyska vänner valde vi därför
att gå till öns största och äldsta kyrka på påskdagen. Kyrkan byggdes för snart
200 år sedan och är enkel men vacker. De flesta besökarna ur lokalbefolkningen
var ljust klädda och damerna bar stora ljusa stråhattar med blommor i. Gudstjänsten
blev en trevlig erfarenhet med många olika talare och en, inte alltför lång,
predikan i glädjens tecken. Under hela ceremonin var det många avbrott för vacker
körsång. Några meddelanden till lokalbefolkningen med information om kommande
händelser hanns också med liksom några välkomnande ord till oss turister som
bänkat oss i kyrkan. </p>
<p>Efter den starka blåsten under påskhelgen har vinden
nästan mojnat helt och vi väntar på nästa väderfönster för att kunna ge oss iväg.
Vi har fördrivit tiden med lite snorkling runt båten och så smått börjat
förbereda oss för avfärd mot Niue tillsammans med den kanadensiska båten som har lite problem med elektroniken ombord och gärna hänger med oss då de skall
till samma destination.</p><p><br></p><p><em>Aitutaki</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526 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srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Arutanga CICC Church</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Sundowner with crew from Valentin, Anastacia and Timmies-Run. Photo by Heike Wagener</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883?1745546883" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>Thu, 24 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/april-2025/cook-islands-and-aitutaki
/blog/april-2025/cook-islands-and-aitutakiFrench Polynesia and the Society IslandsMalin<p class="MsoNormal">Tahiti is
the largest of the 14 islands in the archipelago of the Society Islands and is
also home to Papeete, the capital of all of French Polynesia. Tahiti, like many
of the islands in the archipelago, is surrounded by lagoons protected by large
reefs all around the islands and act as effective breakwaters. A bit like a
combination of island and atoll!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We arrived
in Tahiti on March 10, two days after we left Fakarava. Apart from a few strong
squalls, the sailing did not hold any surprises. None of the marinas in Tahiti
had responded to our requests for a buoy or a berth, so we decided to anchor
instead. As we approached the mouth of the lagoon at Papeete, we were met by a
small group of dolphins playing in the tidal waves, but they soon left us. We
called out “Port control” on the radio to announce our arrival and ask for
permission to pass the inlet. Since there is an airport next to the city, we
also needed to get the go-ahead to cross the airport runway to reach the
anchorage area. After a few minutes, we got permission to sail to the
anchorage. There we then lay and prepared the boat for our arriving guests.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">One evening
we thought the moon looked strange with a cloud that stubbornly covered a small
part of it. Finally, we understood that it was not a cloud and after a little
googling we realized that we had just been honored to witness the beginning of
a total lunar eclipse! With a blood moon and all! We just enjoyed watching the
whole process with a completely clear sky. We got a little sore in the neck
afterwards, but it was worth it! 😁</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">On March
15, our son Isac finally arrived with his friend Joel and it was a happy
reunion. The guys wanted to see the island of Tahiti before we sailed the short
distance to the neighboring island of Moorea. We rented a car and drove around
the island and visited one waterfall after another. We also visited an old cult
site, marae, with a typical rectangular, large and high stone altar.
There were also tikis (anthropomorphic statues of God-like persons) at
the site. In addition to serving as a place of worship in ancient Polynesian
culture, this marae had also been used for important meetings and events such
as war councils, celebrating war victories or holding weddings. Tahiti's
highest point is at the old volcano Mont Orohena at about 2,240 meters above
sea level. We couldn't drive that high, but high enough to get a nice view of
the ocean😉. We looked at beautiful nature and
beaches with black sand and ate really good and generous hamburgers at a small
restaurant. On the southeast side of the island we came to a small isthmus that
divides the island into Tahiti-Nui (big Tahiti) and Tahiti-Iti (little Tahiti).
The vast majority of the island's approximately 1,700 inhabitants live on
Tahiti-Nui and we never visited Tahiti-Iti but continued around the main
island.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The guys
took the opportunity to snorkel around the reefs in the lagoon where we
anchored and saw many different fish and other animals. Among them a reef
shark! The visibility was so good that you could see at least 10 meters down to
the bottom! One day they also managed to find the wrecks of an old airplane and
a ship. It was a Catalina seaplane that used to fly between Tahiti and Bora
Bora. The schooner was once a minesweeper. Both were sunk to the bottom of the
lagoon in 1962 and 1976 respectively to provide a diving site for recreational
divers. Today, lots of fish thrive at the wrecks.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Papeete is
like any other small European city. There is an abundance of jewelry stores
here, most of which sell pearl jewelry with black Polynesian pearls. The local
market is large and sells jewelry and local crafts, soaps, wicker baskets as
well as flowers, fruit and vegetables. We sometimes walked along the promenade
to the large city park, Jardin de Paofai. There were often various activities
and performances held there. In the evenings, you could smell the intense
jasmine-like scent of the white flowers of the Gardenia taitensis (Tiare
flower) shrub, the national flower of French Polynesia. These large bushes were
planted early on the islands and have been incorporated into Polynesian
culture. The flowers are used for wreaths and ornaments and their fragrant
essence is used in soaps and perfumes, etc. The traditional way to prepare the
flowers is to let them lie in coconut oil for a few days and then use the
fragrant oil.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">One day we
witnessed a small farewell ceremony in the park, between students from
different schools. A cultural exchange that takes place every year between
students from Raiatea (one of the Society Islands) and Hawaii. The students
from Hawaii had come to Tahiti and, among other things, learned more about
navigation, sailing and canoe building. There were many tearful farewells where
people thanked each other by hanging wreaths around their necks and touching
their foreheads to each other. One of the teachers from Raiatea told us about
the exchange that had been going on for several years.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After a few
days in Tahiti, we sailed the short distance to the smaller island of Moorea,
which lies northwest of Tahiti. Here too we anchored in the lagoon and had
fantastic snorkeling water right next to the boat. Here, in addition to the
usual colorful reef fish there are sea turtles, moray eels, rays, black-finned
reef sharks and harlequin snake eel (Myrichthys colubrinus), a harmless snake
eel with distinctive black and white stripes across its body. As the icing on
the cake, a small family of spinner dolphins passed by Anastacia. The youngest
ones held their hooves and happily jumped into the air and did daring
pirouettes before landing with a splash! They played and showed off until one
of the adults flicked his tail so that the water splattered and then they all
swam out of the lagoon in a group.Unfortunately we didn't have time to film much of all the beauty we saw😒</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Moorea
we spent a day taking a car ride around the small island and looking around.
Like on Tahiti, the nature is incredibly beautiful and varied with lots of
different flowering trees and bushes. We visited the small eco-museum and
research station Te Fare Natura with a well-made exhibition that, among other
things, described the geological processes behind the formation of the
Polynesian islands and how the reefs with their protected lagoons have slowly
emerged by large pieces of coral reef being broken off and blown towards the
islands when the cyclones ravaged. These enormous pieces of coral have, over
the years, been "cemented" around the islands through various
chemical processes and further growth of corals. Here we could also learn more
about the ecosystems in the different environments around the coral reefs. It
was definitely worth the visit!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After three
days in Moorea, it was time to return to Tahiti and Papeete. We could no longer
stay at the anchorage at Moorea as a large canoe competition with traditional
Polynesian canoes (vaka, or va'a) with outriggers was to take
place between the islands. Unfortunately, we never had time to see any of the
competition. It was certainly worth seeing with many different women's, youth
and men's classes competing.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In Papeete,
we had managed to get a berth at the marina and the last few days before the
guys' departure were spent shopping for some souvenirs and visiting the
ethnographic museum Te Fare Manaha. The museum is about early Polynesian
culture and is not large but extremely informative and the archaeological collections
were interesting to look at. We were particularly impressed by the art of boat
building where the Polynesians, long before the Europeans arrived, could build
beautiful ships of all sizes with simple tools. Everything from small canoes
with outriggers to large catamarans. Each type of canoe and ship had its
function. The smallest ones were for sailing inland, the slightly larger ones
for waging war against other kingdoms on other Polynesian islands and the
largest catamarans for exploration and colonization of new places hundreds and
sometimes over a thousand nautical miles away! Here we could also learn more
about how they could navigate using the position of celestial objects, tidal
currents, the flight of birds and cloud formations. We also learned that they
applied so-called dead reckoning which we still use today as an extra security
to be able to calculate the boat's new position. The museum also explained how
the different islands were slowly populated. The Polynesians lived in a
hierarchical structure in small kingdoms. The kings were considered more or
less divine and power was inherited so it was important to keep bloodlines and
kinship in order. When resources began to run out on an island, a group of
younger Polynesians set off to find new islands/country to settle on.
Originally, the Polynesians came from Asia where Samoa and Tonga were populated
around 3000 BC. Then additional flows of people came from (probably) the
Philippines and slowly the Polynesians spread south, north and east. Tahiti,
for example, is believed to have been populated around 200 BC. Today we speak
of the so-called Polynesian Triangle which connects New Zealand, Hawaii and
Easter Island where French Polynesia forms a large geographical part with its
five archipelagos. The entire area shares roughly the same culture with
variations depending on how long people have lived isolated, as a group, in the
same place.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">An
archaeological artifact at the museum that also caught our attention was the
remains of several small strings of braided coconut fiber tied together with
small knots. These strings are believed to have been used to help remember
important lineages. Since all history and knowledge was based on oral stories,
it seems that this type of object could be used as a form of memory hooks to
help remember long sequences.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After the
museum visit, we were so saturated with information and impressions that it had
to be enough for a while… We hope and believe that the guys got most of what
they had on their wish list for the trip, checked off. Now they are back in
Sweden and in the marina we brought back Anastacia to its original condition 😁 In the last few days we took the opportunity
to fill the tanks with drinking water, service the engine and change the filter
on the watermaker. We also had to spray the anchor chain again as the
experiment with cotton stripes every ten meters did not prove to be so
successful. All the stripes had worn away so we had to return to red spray
paint. We will anchor in many places in the future and need to know how much
chain we will put out. We filled up the food supplies and also bought a good
sewing machine to take with us on the boat. After a long wait and many repairs
carried out by hand sewing, we can now finally get started on some bigger
projects. Among other things, the zipper on the almost 6-meter-long lazy bag
(enclosing the sail on the boom) needs to be replaced. On the last evening, we
were visited by our British friends on the Ocean Dream 2. We met in Nuku Hiva
and have been in touch ever since. We exchanged itineraries and arranged with
the Harbor master to take our place in the harbor. Then we set off for Raiatea,
the last island we wanted to visit before leaving French Polynesia.</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Here on Raiatea (formerly called Havaii) we are
waiting for better winds that can take us further west to the Cook Islands. In
the meantime, we have visited another historical cult site, Taputapuatea. This
site is said to have been founded when the first Polynesians arrived on the
island (around the same time as Tahiti). The site has several marae, probably
the first of their kind, and has had particular importance as a religious and
political center and is considered to be the historical and cultural cradle of
Polynesia. The site has had a renaissance as Polynesians become more interested
and aware of their culture, and Taputapuatea has been a UNESCO World Heritage
Site since 2017. We made the mistake of walking on the stones of a marae at the
site and were soon reprimanded by a guide. “As a non-native, you are welcome to
visit and take photos but not enter the cult site itself”, she said. We excused
ourselves and took a closer look at the information brochures about the area
that we had just acquired and on the first page there was a clear information
box with the text: “Do not walk on the marae except for cultural ceremonies”.
We are great at reading instructions… -not! 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The following days we had only bad weather so
Christer immersed himself in reading Ancient Tahitian Society by anthropologist
Douglas L. Oliver (University of Hawaii): <a href="https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society">https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society</a>
</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It is over 1400 pages of very interesting
reading and takes some time to go through but on the other hand we had many
days with rain 😊. It is highly recommended reading even
though it of course does not give the whole picture of early Polynesian
culture. Oral traditions have not been preserved and it is “only” the
observations of Europeans that are treated and the Europeans’ contact with the
Polynesians also contributed to the transformation of the culture, which the
author himself also problematizes. However, it is an honest attempt to give as
objective a picture as possible, which we appreciated.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Raiatea is known for its vanilla plantations
and when the weather permitted, we took the dinghy to the neighboring island of
Tahaa and met Alice who works at the small vanilla plantation, Fare Vanira.
Alice is originally from France and is married to a Polynesian man. The small
family has lived in Tahaa for many years. We were the only visitors at that
time so she had lots of time and talked to us for over two hours! We learned
that the vanilla plant belongs to the orchid family and needs a small tree to
cling to as it grows. She explained how the flowers are pollinated by hand and
showed several plants with vanilla pods in different stages. She said herself
that vanilla is her passion and it was clearly noticeable! She showed us
different finished vanilla products and how to dry and process the long pods
into finished vanilla pods. A process that is repeated every day and takes
several months! She gave tips on how the vanilla can be stored over time and
also managed to share some food recipes. Among other things, how to get rid of
the sour taste in tomato sauce with the help of a little vanilla! Something we
tried in the tomato sauce for the pasta that same evening, with successful
results although I doubt my Italian relatives would appreciate the venture😊.<br>Alice had great respect for the
knowledge that existed earlier in Polynesia about cultivation methods and
medicinal plants. On the plantation, pesticides are avoided as much as possible
and they try to find other ways to combat pests. One example was getting rid of
certain insect pests with the help of ladybugs, which in turn like to live on
acacia trees, which were consequently seen everywhere in the plantation. She
grew salvia nearby as it has proven to be fantastic against small insects that
could damage the vanilla plants. One of many tricks Alicia learned from her
Polynesian in-laws. In addition to talking about vanilla, we had time to
discuss Polynesian society in general and how people live here today. There
were a lot of aha-moments for us…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Our impressions of the little we got to
experience of French Polynesia during the two months we spent on different
islands are that even though the country is today strongly shaped by French
influence, the Polynesian identity has not been completely lost. From the
beginning, it was forbidden to speak Polynesian in schools, give newborn
children Polynesian names or practice Polynesian religion. The restrictions
have now eased considerably. Today, there is a greater awareness of one's own
history and a desire to learn more about one's own, to some extent forgotten,
culture. Unlike the Caribbean, where the indigenous population no longer
remains on the various islands after colonization and it is mainly the
descendants of slaves and the colonizers who live on the islands today,
Polynesia still has its indigenous population. The culture has been shaped and
changed over time The changes became more noticeable after Captain Cook's
expeditions in the 18th century and through visits by other Europeans such as
the crew of the ship Bounty as well as various whaling boats where some crew
members (including some Swedes from the ship Matilda) chose to stay, until the
French took over. The Polynesians we met and talked to have not seemed to worry
too much about various historical events and even though several injustices
have been committed in contact with Europeans that have contributed to sadness
and disappointment, they have wanted to look forward. We do not know if this
applies more generally or if it is just something that we, as tourists,
experience. We have been met with a lot of kindness and helpfulness and also
straightforwardness. Here, people do not wrap things up in cotton wool and can,
without hesitation, say that "now, I don’t have have time for you" or
"you can't do this, it is not showing respect" without any hard
feelings. A bit liberating, we think...</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We experienced that the food was expensive on
all the islands we visited. Not so surprising since a lot has to be imported
and shipped to the islands. Fruit and vegetables can always be obtained but the
prices vary depending on whether it is imported or domestic. The same applies
to fish and meat. Here you do not pay income tax but goods are taxed all the
more. To address the public health problems that the increasing proportion of
overweight people in the country has, food products are therefore taxed differently.
Alcoholic beverages are taxed at between 100-200%, as are many products with a
high sugar content, while basic goods are taxed low. For example, if you want
to buy bread, of course baguettes are the way to go, and the simplest ones cost
around 6 SEK (60 Polynesian francs), which is affordable for most people.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Before we came to the islands, we had read that
Polynesians on the more remote islands, where cargo ships do not come so often,
are happy to exchange goods for, for example, fruit and vegetables. We also
experienced this, but perhaps not to the extent we had expected. However, we
got a strong feeling that people here are generally generous, but also that
many things are easier to solve with the help of services and reciprocal
services. Which, incidentally, seems to apply to bluewater-sailors too 😊. Hiti, the retired captain we met on the small
atoll Kauehi, was very generous and hospitable to us, but he also had a wish.
To get a better internet connection than the one available on the island. There
are restrictions in French Polynesia regarding which operators are allowed to
operate in the country - for economic and understandable reasons. However, we
think that sometimes it must be possible to make exceptions when you live in
such an isolated place. Hiti did not want us to feel obliged to solve his
little problem, but we still promised to see what was possible. Via one of our
sailing friends from Viking Explorer who is soon on his way to French
Polynesia, it now seems that everything is going to be resolved. Another
example is the parcel we brought with us from Galapagos that was addressed to a
crew member on a sailboat heading to Tahiti, who had to leave before the
package arrived. In addition to traveling on our boat across the Pacific Ocean,
the package had to travel with another contact, via air and is now with its
very grateful owner who has disembarked in Papeete. The events would not have
been possible without the awareness from everyone involved that "next time
it could be my turn to need help...".</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We have seen that there are definitely class
differences in Polynesian society and, mainly in Papeete, have encountered
beggars but certainly not to the extent that we have seen in the Caribbean or
Colombia. There is also a much greater acceptance of LGBTQ people here and even
though the Christian religion has reduced tolerance in general, we have never
met so many people (usually guys) who are, so to speak, members of the third
gender and who are so openly and obviously part of society. The closest
description from our Western eyes would be that we have met an unusually large
number of transgender people. However, this is not a completely accurate
description, since the third gender includes many roles and responsibilities in
older Polynesian culture.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In a few days we will be leaving on a four-day
sailing to the Cook Islands and will be celebrating Easter there. The next stop
will probably be Niue and then we will sail on to Tonga and then Fiji. All are
Polynesian islands but different countries!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Tahiti är den största av de totalt 14 öarna i ögruppen
Sällskapsöarna och här ligger också Papeete som är huvudstaden för hela Franska
Polynesien. Tahiti, liksom de många av öarna i arkipelagen, är omgärdade av
laguner skyddade av stora rev som omringar öarna och fungerar som effektiva
vågbrytare. Lite som en kombination av ö och atoll! Vi kom till Tahiti den 10
mars, två dygn efter att vi lämnat Fakarava. Förutom några rejäla squalls bjöd
seglingen inte på några överraskningar. Ingen av marinorna på Tahiti hade
svarat på våra förfrågningar om boj- eller hamnplats så vi bestämde oss för att
ligga för ankar istället. När vi närmade oss mynningen till lagunen vid Papeete
möttes vi av en liten grupp delfiner som lekte i tidvattenvågorna men de
lämnade oss snart. Vi ropade upp ”Port control” på radion för att anmäla vår
ankomst och be om tillstånd att få passera inloppet. Eftersom det ligger en
flygplats intill staden behövde vi även få klartecken för att passera
flygplatsens start- och landningsbana för att nå ankringsområdet. Efter några
minuter fick vi klartecken att segla till ankringsplatsen. Där låg vi sedan och
förberedde båten för våra ankommande gäster.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">En kväll tyckte vi att månen såg märklig ut med ett moln som
envist täckte en liten del av den. Till slut förstod vi att det inte var ett
moln och efter lite googlande insåg vi att vi just fått äran att bevittna
början av en total månförmörkelse! Med blodmåne och allt! Vi bara njöt och
tittade på hela förloppet med en fullständigt klar himmel. Lite ont i nacken
fick vi efteråt, men det var det värt! 😁</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Den 15 mars kom äntligen sonen Isac med kompisen Joel och
det blev ett glatt återseende. Killarna hade önskemål om att få se ön Tahiti
innan vi skulle segla den korta biten till grannön Moorea. Vi hyrde bil och
körde runt ön och besökte det ena vattenfallet efter det andra. Vi besökte också
en gammal kultplats, marae, med typiskt stensatt rektangulärt, stort och
högt altare. På platsen fanns också tikis (antropomorfa statyer av
gudaliknande människor). Förutom att fungera som en plats för tillbedjan i den
antika polynesiska kulturen, hade denna marae också använts för viktiga möten och
händelser som krigsråd, fira krigssegrar eller hålla bröllop. Tahitis högsta
punkt är vid den gamla vulkanen Mont Orohena på cirka 2 240
meter över havet. Så högt upp kunde vi inte köra men tillräckligt högt för att
få en fin utsikt över havet😉. Vi tittade på vacker natur och stränder med
svart sand samt åt riktigt goda och väl tilltagna hamburgare på liten
restaurang. På öns sydostsida kom vi till ett litet näs som delar ön i Tahiti-Nui (stora
Tahiti) och Tahiti-Iti (lilla Tahiti). De allra flesta av öns ca 1700
invånare bor på Tahiti-Nui och vi i besökte aldrig Tahiti-Iti utan fortsatte
runt huvudön.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Killarna passade på att snorkla runt reven i lagunen där vi
ankrat och fick se många olika fiskar och andra djur. Bl a revhaj! Sikten var
så god att man kunde se minst 10 meter ner mot botten! En dag lyckades de också
hitta vraken från ett gammalt flygplan och ett skepp. Det var ett Catalina
sjöflygplan som brukade flyga mellan Tahiti och Bora Bora. Skonaren var en gång
en minsvepare. Båda sänktes på botten av lagunen under 1962 respektive 1976 för
att just utgöra en dykplats för fritidsdykare. Idag trivs massor av fiskar vid
vraken. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Papeete är som vilken mindre europeisk stad som helst. Här
finns ett överflöd av juvelerarbutiker som till största delen säljer
pärlsmycken med svarta polynesiska pärlor. Den lokala marknaden är stor och här
säljs smycken och lokalt hantverk, tvålar, flätade korgar liksom blommor, frukt
och grönt. Vi gick ibland strandpromenaden till den stora stadsparken Jardin
de Paofai. Där hölls ofta olika aktiviteter och föreställningar. På
kvällarna kunde man känna den intensiva jasminliknande doften från de vita
blommorna på busken Gardenia taitensis (Tiare flower), Franska
Polynesiens nationalblomma. Dessa stora buskar inplanterats tidigt till öarna
och har införlivats i den polynesiska kulturen. Blommorna används till kransar
och prydnader och dess doftessens används i tvålar och parfymer etc. Det
traditionella sättet att bereda blommorna är att låta dem ligga i kokosolja i
några dygn och sedan använda den väldoftande oljan.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">En dag fick vi bevittna en liten avskedsceremoni parken
mellan elever från olika skolor. Ett kulturutbyte som sker varje år mellan
elever från i Raiatea (en av sällskapsöarna) och Hawaii. Eleverna från Hawaii
hade kommit till Tahiti och bl a fått lära sig mer om navigation, segling och
kanotbygge. Det blev många tårfyllda avsked där man tackade varandra genom att hänga
blomkransar runt halsen och nudda pannorna mot varandra. En av lärarna från
Raiatea berättade för oss om utbytet som pågått i flera år.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efter några dygn i Tahiti seglade vi den korta biten till den
mindre ön Moorea som ligger nordväst om Tahiti. Även här ankrade vi i lagunen
och hade fantastiska snorkelvatten precis intill båten. Här fanns, förutom de
vanliga färgglada revfiskarna även vattensköldpaddor, muränor, rockor,
svartfenad revhaj och Harlequin snake eel (Myrichthys colubrinus), en ofarlig ormål
med distinkta svartvita band tvärsöver kroppen. Som grädde på moset kom en
liten familj spinndelfiner och passerade Anastacia. De yngsta höll hov och
hoppade glatt upp i luften och gjorde halsbrytande piruetter innan de landade
med ett plask! De lekte och visade upp sig tills en av de vuxna snärtade till
med stjärten så det small till i vattnet och så simmade de alla ut ur lagunen i
samlad tropp. Tyvärr hann vi inte filma så mycket av allt vackert vi såg😒</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">På Moorea ägnade vi en dag åt att ta en biltur runt den
lilla ön och se oss omkring. Liksom på Tahiti är naturen fantastiskt vacker och
varierad med massor av olika blommande träd och buskar. Vi besökte det lilla
ekomuseet och forskningsstationen Te Fare Natura med en välgjord utställning
som bland annat beskrev de geologiska processer som ligger bakom tillkomsten av
Polynesiens öar och hur reven med sina skyddade laguner sakta har uppstått genom
att stora bitar av korallrev brutits loss och blåst in mot öarna när cyklonerna
härjat. Dessa enorma korallbitar har, under årens lopp, ”cementerats fast” runt
öarna genom olika kemiska processer och ytterligare tillväxt av koraller. Här
kunde vi också lära oss mer om ekosystemen på de olika miljöerna runt
korallreven. Det var helt klart värt besöket!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efter tre dygn i Moorea var det dags att återvända till Tahiti
och Papeete. Vi kunde inte längre ligga kvar vid ankarplatsen vid Moorea då en
stor kanottävling med traditionella polynesiska kanoter (vaka, eller va'a)
med utriggare skulle gå av stapeln mellan öarna. Tyvärr hann vi aldrig se något
av tävlingen. Den var säkert sevärd med många olika dam- ungdoms- och
herrklasser som tävlade. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I Papeete hade vi lyckats få en hamnplats och de sista
dagarna innan killarnas avfärd gick till att handla lite souvenirer och besöka
etnografiska museet Te Fare Manaha. Museet handlar om den tidiga polynesiska
kulturen och är inte stort men oerhört informativt och de arkeologiska
samlingarna var intressanta att se på. Vi blev särskilt imponerade av
båtbyggarkonsten där polynesierna, långt innan européerna kom, med enkla
verktyg kunde bygga vackra skepp i alla storlekar. Allt från små kanoter med
utriggare till stora katamaraner. Varje kanot- och skeppstyp hade sin funktion.
De minsta för att segla inomskärs, de lite större för krigsföring mot andra
kungadömen på andra polynesiska öar och de största katamaranerna för
upptäcktsfärder och kolonisering av nya platser hundratals och ibland över
tusen sjömil bort! Här kunde vi också lära oss mer om hur de kunde navigera med
hjälp av himlakroppars position, tidvattenströmmar, fåglars flykt och
molnformationer. Vi har också läst oss till att man tillämpade s k död räkning
som vi själva använder än idag som en extra säkerhet för att kunna beräkna
båten nya position. På museet förklarades också hur de olika öarna sakta
befolkats. Polynesierna levde i en hierarkisk struktur i små kungadömen.
Kungarna ansågs vara mer eller mindre gudomliga och makten ärvdes så det var viktigt
att hålla ordning på blodslinjer och släktskap. När resurserna började tryta på
en ö gav sig en grupp yngre polynesier sig av för att hitta nya öar/land att
bosätta sig på. Ursprungligen kom polynesierna från Asien där Samoa och Tonga
befolkades runt 3000 f kr. Sedan kom ytterligare folkströmmar från (troligen)
Filippinerna och sakta spred sig polynesierna söderut, norrut och österut. Tahiti
tror man exempelvis befolkades runt 200 f kr. Idag talar man om den s k
Polynesiska Triangeln som binder samman Nya Zeeland, Hawaii och Påskön där
Franska Polynesien utgör en stor geografisk del med sina fem arkipelager. Hela
området delar ungefär samma kultur med variationer beroende på hur länge man
levt isolerad, som grupp, på samma plats.<br>
En arkeologisk artefakt på muséet, som också fångade vår uppmärksamhet, var
resterna av flera sammanbundna små snören i flätad kokosfiber med små knutar
på. Dessa snören tror man användes för att lättare komma ihåg viktiga släktled.
Eftersom all historia och kunskap byggde på muntliga berättelser verkar det som
att denna typ av föremål kunde användas som en form av minneskrokar för att lättare
komma ihåg långa sekvenser.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efter museibesöket var vi så fulla av information och
intryck så det fick räcka för ett tag… Vi hoppas och tror att killarna fick bockat
av det mesta de hade på sin önskelista inför resan. Nu är de åter i Sverige och
i hamnen återställde Anastacia till ursprungligt skick 😁De
sista dagarna passade vi på att fylla på med dricksvatten i tankarna, serva
motorn och byta filter på watermakern. Dessutom fick vi spraya ankarkättingen
igen då experimentet med bomullsband var tionde meter inte visat sig vara så
lyckat. Alla band hade nötts bort så vi fick återgå till röd sprayfärg. Vi
kommer att ankra på många ställen framöver och behöver veta hur mycket kätting
vi lägger ut. Vi fyllde på matförråden och köpte också en bra symaskin att ta
med oss på båten. Efter lång väntan och många lagningar som genomförts genom
handsömnad kan vi nu äntligen ge oss på lite större projekt. Bl a behöver
dragkedjan på den nästan 6 meter långa lazybagen (omsluter seglet på bommen) bytas
ut. Sista kvällen fick vi besök av våra brittiska vänner på Ocean Dream 2. Vi
träffades i Nuku Hiva och har haft kontakt sedan dess. Vi utbytte färdplaner
och ordnade med hamnkaptenen så de kunde överta vår plats i hamnen. Sedan gav
vi oss iväg till Raiatea, den sista ön vi ville besöka innan vi lämnar Franska
Polynesien.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Här på Raiatea (hette tidigare Havaii) väntar vi på vind som
kan ta oss vidare västerut till Cook Island. Under tiden har vi besökt ytterligare
en historisk kultplats, Taputapuatea. Denna plats sägs ha grundats när
de första polynesierna kom till ön runt (ungefär samtidigt som till Tahiti). Platsen
har flera marae, troligen de första i sitt slag, och har haft särskilt stor
betydelse som religiöst och politiskt centrum och anses utgöra Polynesiens
historiska och kulturella vagga. Platsen har fått en renässans i takt med att polynesierna
blir mer intresserade och medvetna om sin kultur och Taputapuatea är sedan 2017
en del av UNESCOs världsarv. Vi begick misstaget att gå på stenarna på en marae
på platsen och blev snart tillrättavisade av en guide. Som icke-infödd får man
gärna besöka och ta kort men inte beträda själva kultplatsen, sa hon. Vi
ursäktade oss och kikade lite extra i informationsbroschyrerna om området som vi
just skaffat och på första sidan stod en tydlig informationsruta med texten:
”Do not walk on the marae except for cultural ceremonies”. Jättebra på
att läsa anvisningar är vi… -inte! 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efterföljande dagar hade vi bara ruskväder så Christer
försjönk i läsning av Ancient Tahitian Society av antropologen Douglas L.
Oliver (University of Hawaii): <a href="https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society">https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society</a><br>
Det är över 1400 sidor mycket intressant läsning och tar lite tid att gå igenom
men å andra sidan hade vi många dagar med regn 😊 Den rekommenderas varmt även om det såklart
inte ger hela bilden av den tidiga polynesiska kulturen. Muntliga traditioner
finns inte bevarade och det är ”bara” européernas iakttagelser som behandlas
och européernas kontakt med polynesierna bidrog också till omformandet av
kulturen, vilket författaren också själv problematiserar. Det är dock ett
ärligt försök att ge en så objektiv bild av som möjligt som vi uppskattade.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Raiatea är känt för sina vaniljodlingar och när vädret
tillät tog vi dingen till grannön Tahaa och träffade Alice som jobbar på den
lilla vaniljplantagen Fare Vanira. Alice kommer ursprungligen från Frankrike
och är gift med en polynesisk man och den lilla familjen bor i Tahaa sedan
många år tillbaka. Vi var de enda besökarna just då så hon hade tid och pratade
med oss i över två timmar! Vi fick lära oss att vaniljplantan tillhör orkidésläktet
och behöver ett litet träd att klamra sig fast runt när det växer. Hon
förklarade hur blommorna pollineras för hand och visade flera plantor med
vaniljfröskidor i olika stadier. Hon sa själv att vanilj är hennes passion och
det märktes tydligt! Hon visade oss olika färdiga vaniljprodukter samt hur man
torkar och behandlar de långa fröskidorna till färdiga vaniljstänger. En
process som upprepas varje dag och tar flera månader! Hon gav tips på hur
vaniljen kan lagras över tid och hann också med några matrecept. Bland annat
hur man kunde bli av med den syrliga smaken i tomatsås med hjälp av lite
vanilj! Något vi provade i tomatsåsen till pastan redan samma kväll, med lyckat
resultat även om jag tvivlar på att mina italienska släktingar skulle upskatta tilltaget 😊.<br> Alice hyste stor respekt för de kunskaper
som fanns tidigare i Polynesien kring odlingsmetoder och medicinalväxter. På
odlingen undviker man bekämpningsmedel så långt det går och försöker hitta
andra sätt att bekämpa skadedjur. Ett exempel var att bli av med vissa
skadeinsekter med hjälp av nyckelpigor som i sin tur gärna vill leva på akacieträd
vilka följaktligen syntes lite varstans i odlingen. Salvia odlade hon i
närheten då den visat sig vara fantastiskt bra mot små kryp som kunde skada
vaniljplantorna. Ett av många knep Alicia lärt av sina polynesiska svärföräldrar.
Förutom vaniljprat så hann vi med att diskutera polynesiska samhället i stort
och hur människor lever här idag. Det blev en hel del aha-upplevelser för vår
del…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Våra intryck av det lilla vi fått uppleva av Franska
Polynesien under de två månader vi vistats på olika öar är att trots att landet
idag är starkt format av det franska inflytandet så har den polynesiska
identiteten inte gått helt förlorad. Från att det från början var förbjudet att
prata polynesiska i skolorna, ge nyfödda barn polynesiska namn eller utöva polynesisk
religion har restriktionerna lättat betydligt. Idag finns en större medvetenhet
om den egna historien och en önskan om att lära sig mer om sin egen, till viss
del bortglömda, kultur. Till skillnad från Karibien, där ursprungsbefolkningen
inte längre finns kvar på de olika öarna efter koloniseringen och det är
slavättlingar och ättlingar av kolonisatörerna som idag lever på öarna, så har trots
allt Polynesien sin ursprungsbefolkning kvar. Kulturen har formats över tid och
förändrats. Förändringarna blev mer påtagliga efter Kapten Cooks expeditioner
på 1700-talet och genom besök av andra européer som exempelvis besättningen på skeppet
Bounty liksom olika valfångarbåtar där även vissa besättningsmedlemmar
(däribland några svenskar från fartyget Matilda) valt att stanna kvar, fram
till fransmännens övertagande. De polynesier vi träffat och pratat med har inte
verkat oroa sig alltför mycket över olika historiska händelser och även om flera
oförrätter har begåtts i kontakten med européer som bidragit till sorg och
besvikelse så har man velat se framåt. Vi vet inte om det gäller mer generellt
eller om det bara är något som vi, som turister upplever. Vi har mötts av
mycket vänlighet och hjälpsamhet och också rättframhet. Här lindar man inte in
orden så mycket utan kan, utan omsvep, säga att ”nu har jag inte längre tid med
er” eller ”så här får ni inte göra, det är inte att visa respekt” utan att det
ligger någon mer värdering i det. Lite befriande, tycker vi…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi upplevde vi att maten var dyr på alla öar vi besökt. Inte
så konstigt då mycket måste importeras och fraktas till öarna. Frukt och grönt
går alltid att få tag i men priserna varierar beroende på om det är importerat
eller inhemskt. Detsamma gäller fisk och kött. Här betalar man ingen
inkomstskatt men varor beskattas desto mer. För att möta de folkhälsoproblem
som den ökade andelen överviktiga i landet har, beskattas därför matvaror
olika. Alkoholhaltiga drycker beskattas till mellan 100-200% liksom många
produkter med högt sockerinnehåll medan basvaror beskattas lågt. Om man exempelvis
vill köpa bröd så är det såklart baguetter som gäller och de enklaste kostar
runt 6 kr (60 polynesiska franc) vilket är överkomligt för de flesta.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Innan vi kom till öarna hade vi läst att polynesier på de
mer avlägsna öarna, dit fraktfartygen inte kommer så ofta, gärna byter till sig
varor mot t ex frukt och grönsaker. Det fick vi också uppleva men kanske inte i
den omfattning vi hade förväntat oss. Dock fick vi en stark känsla av att
människor generellt här är givmilda men också att många saker lättare löses med
hjälp av tjänster och gentjänster. Vilket för övrigt verkar gälla för långseglare
också 😊. Hiti, den pensionerade kaptenen vi träffade
på den lilla atollen Kauehi var mycket givmild och gästvänlig mot oss men hade också
en önskan. Att få bättre en internetuppkoppling än den som fanns tillgänglig på
ön. Det finns restriktioner i Franska Polynesien vad gäller vilka operatörer
som får verka i landet -av ekonomiska och förståeliga skäl. Dock tycker vi att
det ibland måste kunna gå att göra undantag när man lever på en så isolerad
plats. Hiti ville inte att vi skulle känna oss tvungna att lösa hans lilla
problem men vi lovade ändå att se vad som var möjligt. Via en av våra
seglarvänner från Viking Explorer som snart är på väg till Franska Polynesien
verkar nu det hela lösa sig. Ett annat exempel är paketet vi tog med oss från
Galapagos som var adresserat till en besättningsman, på en segelbåt på väg till
Tahiti, som blev tvungen att ge sig av innan paketet hunnit fram. Förutom att
färdas på vår båt över Stilla havet har paketet fått åka med ytterligare en kontakt,
via flyg och är nu hos sin mycket tacksamme ägare som mönstrat av i Papeete. Händelserna
hade inte varit möjliga utan alla involverades känsla för att ”nästa gång kan
det vara min tur att behöva hjälp…”.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi har sett att det absolut finns klasskillnader i det
polynesiska samhället och, främst i Papeete, träffat på tiggare men absolut
inte i den omfattning som vi sett i Karibien eller Colombia. Här finns också en
mycket större acceptans för HBTQ-personer och även om den kristna religionen
gjort att toleransen minskat generellt så har vi aldrig träffat på så många
människor (oftast killar) som s a s tillhör det tredje könet och som så öppet
och självklart är en del av samhället. Närmaste beskrivningen utifrån våra västerländska
ögon skulle vara att vi träffat ovanligt många transpersoner. Det är dock inte en
helt rättvisande beskrivning, eftersom det tredje könet inbegriper många roller
och ansvar i äldre polynesisk kultur.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Om några dagar ger vi oss av på en fyradygns-seglats till
Cook Islands och skall fira påsk där. Nästa anhalt blir troligen Niue och sedan
seglar vi vidare till Tonga och därefter Fiji. Alla är polynesiska öar men
olika länder!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><iframe width="490px" height="240px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M4cXi_b-jz8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Tahiti and Papeete</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="902" data-original-height="886" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Marae and the ethnographic museum (Tahiti)</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Moorea</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Raiatea</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Local Market at Raiatea (with music performance 😊)</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RPCVEwVLrqE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p class="MsoNormal"><em style="font-size: 11px;"><br></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em style="font-size: 11px;">We bought Avocados (Avozilla), Apples, Bananas, Pompelmus, Rambutan, Pineapple and Papaya</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1816" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Taputapuatea (Raiatea)</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263?1744085263" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263?1744085263" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Vanilla plantation (Tahaa)</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" 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760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263?1744085263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>Mon, 07 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/april-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-society-islands
/blog/april-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-society-islandsFrench Polynesia and the TuamotusMalin<p class="MsoNormal">The sail
from Nuku Hiva to the small atoll Kauehi in Tuamotu took four days and started
with a surprisingly large pod of dolphins with over 50 individuals that joined
us for an hour or so. We believe they were bottlenose dolphins. Wonderful to
see! 😍 During the sail we had good wind but very variable weather. During the
day we had strong sunshine and at night one small storm replaced another with
so-called squalls which mean a sudden increase in wind that lasts for 15-20
minutes with thunder and sometimes rain. Neither the windvane nor the autopilot
is able to keep the course during stronger squalls so you have to steer manually,
follow the wind, and then slowly bring the boat back in the right direction. It
was certainly good training because you learn to handle the boat in tougher
weather but also tiring in the long run because we are alone on the shifts at
night, when the other person is sleeping. At one point it rained so heavily
that you couldn't even see the other side of the cockpit when you were at the
helm. You just had to try to keep up, and steer the boat as best you could
until it was all over. We also saw large illuminated ships at night without any
AIS turned on, moving slowly a few nautical miles away. We suspected large
trawlers that didn't want to be discovered. Later we also received confirmation
that Chinese and Japanese fishing vessels are fishing illegally in Polynesian
waters.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The entire
Tuamotus consists of 78 atolls spread over an area that is about 2,000 km long.
The atolls are all former underwater volcanoes that are now coral reefs. Kauehi
is a small atoll that is relatively easy to get into and was therefore our
beginner's choice 😊 The only entrance is on the southwest side of
the atoll. We had managed to adjust the sailing so that there was just over an
hour left until high tide when we reached the inlet and the current was about
two knots into the atoll. We had a light wind against us which did not pose any
major problems but we sailed through the mouth with some areas with
"overfalls" and smaller so-called standing waves which are the result
of when the current and waves/wind go in opposite directions. It was very deep
both just outside and just inside the inlet. Once inside the atoll we noticed
that it was much larger than we had first thought. It took us just over an hour
to reach the northwestern, inhabited part. The rest of the atoll consists of
reefs that are either just below the water surface or are lined with coconut
palms. A strange feeling to sail into an old volcanic crater! Once we arrived
at the village of Tearavero which is located at a shallower part of the lagoon
we were lucky enough that the only remaining buoy was free and in good
condition, so we moored at it. Apart from another sailboat that was in the same
lagoon, we were the only visitors. The other boat turned out to belong to a
Frenchman who had been in the area for 15 years!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Kauehi has
around 200 inhabitants. The village has everything you could need, shops,
church, cemetery, school, a mayor, a small health centre etc. The island has
also had its own small airport for a few years now, with flights 1-2 times a
week. The main source of income comes from the coconut plantations owned by the
various families on the atoll. There used to be pearl farms here, but these
have now been closed down. Old pearl farm buoys are ideal for holding up the
anchor chain (i.e. floating anchor chain) when anchoring near corals. With
these buoys, the chain is kept slightly above the seabed and there is no risk
of damaging the corals or getting stuck around the coral heads (boomies) when
the boat turns around. We were looking to get hold of some of these buoys and
to our delight got a couple from some kind villagers who had them in their gardens
😊We wanted to pay or exchange them for something, but they didn't want to
hear about it!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We stayed a
few days at Tearavero and enjoyed looking at the turquoise water with small
darker boomies with small colorful reef fish. We got to know the retired
captain Hiti who was born and raised on the island. He told us about his life
and how he did his military service in the French navy as a young man.
Throughout his adult life he has been a captain of cargo ships and traveled to
many distant places. He knew all the islands and atolls in French Polynesia
well. He himself thought that he and his wife were doing well in their nice
house and were happy with their pension. We asked him how he viewed the issue
of independence from France and he replied that few Polynesians talk about it
out loud and the younger generation do not want to hear about completely
freeing themselves from France. After all, France contributes economically and
with infrastructure, education systems, etc., but the older generation may have
a different view.<br>
-We are not free, he said. Then he looked at us seriously and continued.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">- You know.
During our military service, we were ordered to Moruroa 24 hours after they
dropped the bomb. 24 hours! “It was nothing dangerous”, they said. We wondered.
If it's not dangerous. Why don't they detonate the bombs in France? Why here? I
remember what it looked like! Destruction everywhere, dead fish floating in the
water...<br>Then he
turned away and fell silent. We understood that this was hard to talk about, and
didn't ask any more questions.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hati
changed the subject and told us that he now takes care of the family's coconut
plantation and showed us his land and how to harvest the coconuts. He offered
us fresh coconut water from still green coconuts. Then he showed us some young
coconut palms that were only a year old. My grandchild planted these, he said
and smiled broadly! He proudly told us about his children and grandchildren.
The children were all well-educated. Some lived in Tahiti, others in France.
None of them lived on the island, which is slowly being depopulated. On Kauehi,
as on many other smaller islands, children go to school until they are around
10 years old. To continue their education (secondary school), they must be
accommodated with a family in Tahiti, for example. If you don't know of a
family the children can stay with, the parents may also have to move there and
look for accommodation and support. Young Polynesians also choose to continue
their studies at universities in France and it can be difficult to motivate
themselves to move back to the island where the livelihoods are worse.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After the
little sightseeing, Hiti gave us two young coconuts to take on the boat and
urged us to drink the water from them within a week because otherwise they
would have time to go bad from being shaken around on the boat. He gave us
advice on how to navigate into Fakarava, our next destination. When we asked if
he knew the times for high and low tide for the next 24 hours, he said that
nowadays he just went by what he had learned from his grandfather. When the
moon was at its highest in its orbit, it was high tide. Then you can calculate
the rest… We thanked him for his hospitality and everything he had taught us
with a gift in return and the next day we set off for Fakarava. We had studied
the moon’s path in the evening and, sure enough, when we looked at the tide
tables for the area, the theory was relatively correct. The time for the
highest point on the moon’s path is high tide. If you add 6 hours and 15
minutes, you get the time for the next low tide, after another 6 hours and 15
minutes the next high tide will come, etc. Then you just have to consult the
moon again… Not an exact science but enough for us to navigate by😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Afterwards,
we also read more about the nuclear weapons tests that France carried out on
the uninhabited atolls of Moruroa and adjacent Fangataufa. We also remembered
how the Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior had been sunk in connection with these
and the protests that arose around the world. Between 1966 and 1996, over 190
nuclear weapons tests were carried out on the atolls, both above and below
ground. It was later shown that this had devastating consequences for both
animal and plant life and, not least, all residents of the islands and the
military personnel who participated in various missions in connection with the
blasts. Primarily, the number of cases of thyroid cancer has increased
significantly, but the frequency of other forms of cancer has also increased,
as have deformities in newborns, birth defects, etc. since the test blasts were
carried out, and the whole of Polynesia has been affected in various ways
because the winds and water currents have brought radioactive particles with
them. It can still be difficult to obtain compensation from the French governement,
even though the regulations have changed somewhat over the years as more
evidence has been produced of damage linked to the blasts. France was by no
means the only country to have carried out this type of blast. The USA, Great
Britain, the Soviet Union/Russia and China have also carried out test blasts,
to name a few. These have also almost always taken place in occupied areas
where the indigenous population has been affected….</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The sail to
Fakarava, where we are now, took almost six hours. The island is the second
largest in the Tuamotu and is part of one of the UNESCO biosphere reserves. The
atoll and has two inlets/outlets. We entered through the (enormous) northern
inlet, completely without any problems. Even in this atoll, it is the northern
part that is inhabited with the largest village, Rotoava. Just outside Rotoava,
about fifty sailboats were anchored. When we arrived, we looked for a free
place to anchor and tried, for the first time, to float the anchor chain with our
buoys as not to damage or get stuck to the corals on the seabed. However, the
depth was so great that no corals probably grew there, but we practiced anyway.
We were a little worried that if the chain came off the seabed, the anchor
might not set properly, but we have now been here for four days without
dragging, so it seems to be working. 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava
turned out to be much more tourist-oriented than little Kauehi and reminded us
more of Nuku Hiva with large cruise ships that come in and unload passengers
ashore for a day's experiences before they re-board for the onward journey to
the next island. Craft shops, grocery stores and restaurants are open and taxis
arrange transport and small excursions. It is important to make the most of the
hours that tourists are ashore!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The atoll
is so large that there is a lot of life in the large lagoon such as different
species of sharks, turtles, rays, mantas, etc. Even dolphins are said to be
here! The atmosphere is calm and relaxed and we were warmly welcomed by the
staff at the mayor's office when we went in to pay the tourist and garbage fee.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In the
shallower parts of the lagoon, the water is turquoise blue and the sand is
chalk white. For those who like sun, swimming and white beaches, this is pure
paradise! Small boomies can be seen here and there in the water that you can
cross between when you go ashore with the dinghy. We took the time to snorkel
around a reef that was close to the boat and saw lots of reef fish and
beautiful corals. Unfortunately, most of the corals were in poor condition and
completely gray. We have also seen blacktip reef sharks, nurse sharks
and large water turtles. It also looks like we caught three suckerfish from
Kauhei that probably hitchhiked with us by sitting under the Anastacia's hull.
We had fed them small pieces of bread in Kauehi and were surprised when the
same fish appeared again as soon as we anchored in Fakarava. They look funny
with a big sucker plate on their heads… Of course, they got some bread crumbs
here too. Baguettes, naturally. These are French islands! 😁.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava is
perhaps best known for its pearl farms and that was something we wanted to
learn more about. You can see the buoys of the farms floating in the water
further out in the lagoon. We booked a small tour at Les Perles D'Havaiki. The
guide showed the whole process, from surgically inserting a small mini-pearl
made of seashells into the oyster's stomach to how to pick out a finished pearl
after the oyster has grown for about two years. The finished pearl is then
washed and classified by color, size, shape, etc. In Polynesia, mainly black
pearls are cultivated, which have a special luster. The whole process requires
clean water and a good environment for the oyster to thrive. An oyster can be
allowed to produce several pearls one after the other until it is too old. In
cases where the oyster can no longer be used, it is opened completely and the
meat (muscle) is sold to restaurants. The shells are used to make jewelry and
other works of art, as these also have a beautiful luster. To end the tour, we each
got to choose an oyster that was ready to harvest and take home the pearl that
had formed in it. Now we understand what a complicated process pearl farming is
and involves many steps that require craftsmanship and several different
professions.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, we
will soon set off again. There will be no more atolls for us, but we have a
two-day sailing to Tahiti where we are also expecting a visit from our son and
his friend.</p>
<div>
~~~~~~~~~~~</div><p><br></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Seglingen från Nuku Hiva till den lilla atollen Kauehi i
Tuamotu tog fyra dygn och började med en överraskande stor flock delfiner med
över 50 individer som slog följe med oss under någon timme. Vi tror det var
flasknosdelfiner. Underbart att se! 😍 Under seglatsen hade vi
bra vind men mycket varierande väder. På dagarna hade vi starkt solsken och på
nätterna avlöste det ena lilla ovädret det andra med s k squalls som innebär
plötslig vindökning som varar i 15-20 minuter med åska och ibland regn. Vare
sig vindroder eller autopilot klarar att hålla kursen vid kraftigare squalls så
man får handstyra och s a s följa med vinden, för att sedan sakta föra båten
tillbaka i rätt riktning. Bra träning var det visserligen eftersom man lär sig
hantera båten i tuffare väder men också tröttsamt i längden eftersom vi är
ensamma på passen nattetid, då den andre sover. Vid ett tillfälle regnade det
så kraftigt att det inte ens gick att se andra sidan av sittbrunnen när man
stod vid rodret. Det var bara att försöka hänga med, och styra båten så gott
det gick tills det hela var över. Vi fick också återigen se stora upplysta
fartyg på nätterna utan någon AIS påslagen som sakta rörde sig på några sjömils
avstånd. Vi misstänkte stora trålare som helst inte ville bli upptäckta. Senare
har vi också fått bekräftat att kinesiska och japanska fiskefartyg fiskar
olovandes i de polynesiska vattnen.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hela Tuamotus består av 78 atoller utspridda på ett område som
är ca 2 000 km långt. Atollerna är alla före detta undervattensvulkaner som
numera är korallrev. Kauehi är en liten atoll som är relativt enkel att ta sig
in i och blev därför vårt nybörjarval 😊 Det enda inloppet ligger på atollens sydvästra
sida. Vi hade lyckats anpassa seglingen så det var drygt en timme kvar till
högvatten när vi nådde inloppet och strömmen var på ca två knop in mot atollen.
Vi hade svag vind emot oss som inte utgjorde några större problem utan vi
seglade igenom mynningen med några områden med ”overfalls” och mindre s k
stående vågor som är resultatet av när ström och vågor/vind går i motsatta
riktningar. Det var bråddjupt både strax utanför och strax innanför mynningen. Väl
inne i atollen konstaterade vi att den var mycket större än vi först hade
trott. Det tog oss dryga timmen att nå den nordvästra, bebodda delen. Resten av
atollen utgörs av rev som antingen ligger strax under vattenytan eller är
beklädda med kokospalmer. En märklig känsla att segla in i en gammal vulkankrater!
Väl framme vid byn Tearavero som ligger vid en grundare del i lagunen hade vi
sådan tur att den enda kvarvarande bojen var ledig och i gott skick, så vi lade
till vid den. Förutom en annan segelbåt som låg i samma lagun var vi de enda
besökarna. Den andra båten visade sig tillhöra en fransman som vistats i
området i 15 år!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">På Kauehi bor runt 200 invånare. I byn finns det mesta som
man kan behöva, affärer, kyrka, kyrkogård, skola, en borgmästare, en liten
vårdcentral etc. Ön har sedan några år tillbaka även en egen mindre flygplats
där flygen går 1-2 gånger i veckan. Främsta inkomstkällan kommer från
kokosplantagen som ägs av de olika familjerna på atollen. Tidigare fanns det
även pärlodlingar här men dessa var nu nerlagda. Gamla pärlodlingsbojar är idealiska
för att kunna hålla uppe ankarkättingen (s k bojad kätting) när man skall ankra
i närheten av koraller. Med dessa bojar hålls kättingen lite ovanför botten och
man riskerar inte att förstöra korallerna eller fastna runt korallhuvudena
(boomies) när båten svänger runt. Vi var ute efter att få tag i några sådana
bojar och fick till vår förtjusning ett par av några snälla bybor som hade dem
i sina trädgårdar 😊Vi ville betala eller byta med något med det
ville de inte höra talas om!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi stannade några dagar vid Tearavero och njöt av att titta
på det turkosa vattnet med små mörkare boomies med små färgglada revfiskar. Vi lärde
känna den pensionerade kaptenen Hiti som är född och uppvuxen på ön. Han
berättade om sitt liv och hur han gjort sin militärtjänst i den franska flottan
som ung. Under hela sitt vuxna liv har han varit kapten på fraktfartyg och rest
till många avlägsna platser. Han kände väl till alla öar och atoller i Franska
Polynesien. Han tyckte själv att han och hans fru hade det bra i sitt fina hus och
var nöjd med sin pension. Vi frågade om hur han såg på frågan om
självständighet från Frankrike. Han förklarade att få polynesier pratar högt om
det och de yngre vill inte höra talas om att helt frigöra sig från Frankrike.
Frankrike bidrar trots allt ekonomiskt och med infrastruktur, utbildningssystem
m m men de äldre har kanske en annan syn, menade han.<br>
-Vi är ju inte fria, sa han. Sedan såg han allvarligt på oss och sa:<br>
-Ni vet. Under militärtjänsten blev vi kommenderade till Moruroa 24 timmar
efter att de släppte bomben. 24 timmar! ”Det var inget farligt”, sa de. Vi
undrade. Om det inte är farligt. Varför spränger de då inte bomberna i
Frankrike? Varför hos oss? Jag minns hur det såg ut! Förstörelse överallt, döda
fiskar flöt i vattnet…<br>Sedan vände han sig bort och tystnade. Det här var jobbigt
att tala om, förstod vi och ställde inga fler frågor.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hati bytte samtalsämne och berättade att han numera sköter
om familjens kokosplantage och visade oss sina marker och hur man skördar kokosnötterna.
Han bjöd på färskt kokosvatten från ännu gröna kokosnötter. Sedan visade han
oss några späda kokospalmer som bara var ett år gamla. De här har mitt barnbarn
planterat, sa han och log stort! Han berättade stolt om sina barn och barnbarn.
Barnen var alla välutbildade. Några bodde på Tahiti, andra i Frankrike. Ingen
av dem fanns kvar på ön som sakta håller på att avfolkas. På Kauehi liksom på
många andra mindre öar går barnen i skola tills de är runt 10 år gamla. För att
fortsätta sin utbildning (secondary school) måste de inkvarteras hos någon
familj i exempelvis Tahiti. Känner man ingen familj barnen kan få bo hos, måste
kanske föräldrarna också flytta dit och söka bostad och försörjning. Unga
polynesier väljer också att läsa vidare på universitet i Frankrike och det kan
vara svårt att motivera sig att flytta tillbaka till ön där
försörjningsmöjligheterna är sämre. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efter den lilla sightseeingen gav Hiti oss två späda
kokosnötter att ta med på båten och uppmanade oss att dricka vattnet från dem
inom en vecka eftersom de annars skulle hinna bli dåliga av att skakas runt på
båten. Han gav oss råd om hur vi skulle navigera in i Fakarava, vår nästa
destination. När vi frågade om han visste tiderna för hög- och lågvatten det
närmste dygnet sa han att han numera bara gick efter vad han lärt av sin morfar.
När månen stod som högst på sin bana så var det högvatten. Sedan kan man räkna
ut resten…Vi tackade för hans gästfrihet och allt han lärt oss med en gåva
tillbaka och dagen efter gav vi oss iväg till Fakarava. Vi hade studerat månens
bana på kvällen och, mycket riktigt, när vi tittade i tidvattentabeller för
området så stämde teorin relativt bra. Tiden för högsta punkten på månbanan råder
högvatten. Lägger man till 6 timmar och 15 minuter så får man tiden för nästa
lågvatten, efter ytterligare 6 timmar och 15 minuter kommer nästa högvatten o s
v. Sedan är det bara att konsultera månen igen… Ingen exakt vetenskap men
tillräckligt för oss att navigera efter😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efteråt läste vi också på mer om de kärnvapenprovsprängningar
som Frankrike gjorde på de obebodda atollerna Moruroa och intilliggande Fangataufa.
Vi mindes också hur Greenpeacefartyget Rainbow Warrior hade sänkts i samband
med dessa och protesterna som uppstod världen över. Mellan åren 1966 och 1996
genomfördes över 190 kärnvapenprov på atollerna både ovan och under mark. Det
har senare visat sig att det fick förödande konsekvenser för både djur och
växtliv och, inte minst, alla boende på öarna och de militärer som deltog i
olika uppdrag i samband med sprängningarna. Främst har fallen av
sköldkörtelcancer blivit många fler men frekvensen av andra cancerformer har också
ökat liksom missbildningar hos nyfödda, fosterskador m m sedan
provsprängningarna genomfördes och hela Polynesien har drabbats på olika sätt
eftersom vindarna och vattenströmmar fört med sig radioaktiva partiklar.
Fortfarande kan det vara svårt att få ersättning av franska staten även om
regelverket förändrats något genom åren i takt med att man kunnat ta fram fler
bevis för skador knutna till sprängningarna. Frankrike var ingalunda det enda
land som genomfört den här typen av sprängningar. USA, Storbritannien,
Sovjet/Ryssland och Kina har också genomfört provsprängningar, för att nämna
några. Dessa har också nästan alltid skett i ockuperade områden där
ursprungsbefolkningen drabbats….</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Seglingen till Fakarava, där vi nu befinner oss, tog nästan
sex timmar. Ön är den näst största i Tuamotu och ingår i ett av UNESCO:s biosfärområden.
Atollen och har två in-/utlopp. Vi kom in genom det (enormt stora) norra inloppet,
helt oproblematiskt. Även i denna atoll är det den norra delen som är bebodd med
den största byn Rotoava. Strax utanför Rotoava låg ett femtiotal segelbåtar
ankrade. När vi kom fram letade vi upp en ledig plats att ankra på och provade,
för första gången, att kroka fast bojar längs ankarkättingen för att inte skada
eller fastna vid korallerna på botten. Djupet var dock så pass stort att det
troligen inte växte några koraller där men vi övade ändå. Vi var lite oroliga
för att om kättingen lättar från botten så kanske ankaret inte skulle sätta sig
ordentligt men vi har nu legat här i fyra dygn utan att dragga så det verkar
fungera. 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava visade sig vara mycket mer turistinriktat än lilla
Kauehi och påminde oss mer om Nuku Hiva med stora kryssningsfartyg som kommer
in och lastar av passagerare i land för en dags upplevelser innan de åter går
ombord för vidare färd till nästa ö. Hantverksbutiker, mataffärer och
restauranger håller öppet och taxibilar ordnar med transporter och små
exkursioner. Det gäller att ta vara på de timmar som turisterna är i land!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Atollen är så stor att det ryms mycket liv i den stora
lagunen som olika hajarter, sköldpaddor, rockor, mantor etc. T o m delfiner
skall finnas här! Atmosfären är lugn och avslappnad och vi blev hjärtligt
välkomnade av personalen på borgmästarens kansli när vi gick in för att betala
turist- och sopavgiften.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I lagunens grundare delar är vattnet turkosblått och sanden
kritvit. För den som gillar sol, bad och vita stränder är detta rena paradiset!
Små boomies syns här och var i vattnet som man får kryssa emellan när man åker in
till land med dingen. Vi tog oss tid att snorkla runt ett rev som låg nära
båten och fick se massor av revfiskar och vackra koraller. Dock var tyvärr merparten
av korallerna i dåligt skick och alldeles grå. Vi har även sett svartfenad revhaj, sköterskehaj
och stora vattensköldpaddor. Dessutom ser det ut som att vi fått med oss tre
sugfiskar från Kauhei som troligen liftat med oss genom att sitta under Anastacias
skrov. Vi hade matat dem med små brödbitar i Kauehi och blev förvånade när
samma fiskar dök upp igen så fort vi ankrat i Fakarava. De ser lustiga ut med
en stor sugplatta på huvudet… Självklart fick de några brödsmulor här också. Baguetter,
såklart. Det är ju franska öar! 😁.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava är kanske mest känt för sina pärlodlingar och det
var något vi gärna ville få lära oss mer om. Man kan se odlingarnas bojar flyta
i vattnet längre ut i lagunen. Vi bokade en liten visning på Les Perles
D'Havaiki. Guiden visade hela processen, från det att man kirurgiskt opererar
in en liten minipärla av snäckskal i ostronets mage till hur man plockar ut en
färdig pärla efter att ostronet fått växa till sig i ungefär två år. Den färdiga
pärlan skall sedan tvättas och klassificeras efter färg storlek form etc. I
Polynesien odlas främst de svarta pärlorna som har en speciell lyster. Hela
processen kräver rena vatten och bra miljö för att ostronen skall trivas. Man
kan låta ett ostron producera flera pärlor efter varandra tills det blivit för
gammalt. I de fall ostronet inte kan användas längre öppnas det helt och köttet
(muskeln) säljs till restauranger. Av skalen görs smycken och andra konstverk
då även dessa har en vacker lyster. Som avslut på visningen fick vi välja ut varsitt
ostron som s a s var färdigt att skörda och ta med oss pärlan som bildats i
djuret. Nu förstår vi vilken komplicerad process pärlodling innebär med många
steg som kräver hantverksskicklighet och involverar flera olika yrkesgrupper.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Nu skall vi strax ge oss av igen. Det blir inte fler atoller
för vår del utan nu väntar två dygns segling till Tahiti där vi också väntar
besök av son med kompis.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Kauehi</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696" loading="lazy" data-original-width="728" data-original-height="695" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f/userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696" width="150" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108?1741420108" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108?1741420108" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107?1741420107" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107?1741420107" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Fakarava</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675" loading="lazy" data-original-width="761" data-original-height="778" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675?1741419675" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_082144.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="2250" 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src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_122644.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>Fri, 07 Mar 2025 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/march-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-tuamotus
/blog/march-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-tuamotusFrench Polynesia, Nuku Hiva and the MarquesasMalin<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Polynesia (meaning roughly the many islands) is
a large cultural and geographical region in the Pacific Ocean consisting of a
variety of islands, archipelagos and nations where the people share the same origin
and speak one of the many Polynesian languages. Polynesia is bordered by Hawaii
(to the north), New Zealand (to the southwest) and Easter Island (to the
southeast). The area is sometimes referred to as the Polynesian Triangle.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">French Polynesia is part of Polynesia and is
almost as large as Europe and consists of 118 islands and atolls, of which 67
are inhabited. The islands are divided into different archipelagos; Marquesas
Islands, Tuamotu Archipelago, Society Islands, Gambier Islands and Austral
Islands. There are long distances between the archipelagos with the Gambier
Islands and Austral Islands being the southernmost. We will probably not be
able to visit these two southern archipelagos. Further north, from east to west lie the
Marquesas, Tuamotu and Society Islands, where Tahiti with its capital Papeete
is perhaps the best known. We plan to visit a few islands on each of these archipelagos
before heading further west to other Polynesian islands/nations.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The islands in French Polynesia have all been
formed from volcanoes and the youngest are about 1-5 million years old, such as
the islands in the Marquesas. The oldest islands are in the Austral Islands and
Tuamotu and are around 50 million years old. The oldest islands are no longer
real islands, but millions of years of erosion have transformed them into
atolls where only some parts protrude from the sea surface.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The islands in French Polynesia were first
settled by Austronesian-speaking Polynesians, who probably originated from
Southeast Asia (Taiwan-Philippines) and migrated east via Samoa and Tonga. This
migration was part of the great Polynesian expansion across the Pacific. In
French Polynesia, it began in the Marquesas a few hundred years BC and the last
islands colonized by Polynesians are believed to have been the Gambier Islands,
which also became the islands from which a group of inhabitants probably emigrated
and continued the long journey to Easter Island and later Hawaii, which began
to be populated around the 11th and 13th centuries AD. A prerequisite for this
strong expansion, despite the great distances in the Pacific Ocean, was the
sophisticated navigational skills that the Polynesians had developed. They
navigated with the help of stars, ocean currents and bird migration patterns.
They used the characteristic wooden canoes with an outrigger (additional hull)
attached to one side of the canoe. These canoes were very stable and could be
both paddled and sailed. Today, the same type of canoe is still used, but made
of more modern materials.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The first time Europeans came into contact with
the islands was in the 16th century when the Portuguese and Spaniards noted
that the islands existed but they probably had little contact with the
inhabitants. In 1767, the British Samuel Wallis landed on Tahiti and declared
the island British. Protestantism was then introduced to the island. The French
eventually took over Tahiti after disputes and battles with the British and the
population of the islands under the then Polynesian regent Queen Pomare IV. In the
early 20th century, all five island groups belonged to France and Catholicism
became the official religion. Today, French Polynesia has more autonomy but is
still considered one of France's so-called overseas collectivity where France
retains control over defense, foreign policy, justice and law enforcement and
currency/economy (the CFP franc is tied to the euro). French Polynesia now
controls its own laws, economy, budget, health, education (partially) and
internal security. From what we understand, there no longer seems to be
majority support among the population on the islands for complete independence
from France, but instead they are trying to make better use of their own old
culture and have, with the help of historians and archaeologists, begun to
rediscover and embrace parts of it, such as dances, crafts and food traditions.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The Polynesian indigenous culture and its
traditions vary between the islands but have a common core. Before European
colonization, the population was organized into hierarchical chiefdoms ruled by<em>
Ari’i</em> (chiefs). Below the chiefs there were several different social classes
and the lowest were the slaves who were often convicted criminals or captured
enemies. The Polynesians could build impressive structures such as <em>marae
</em> which were sacred temples for religious and social purposes. They lived on what
the sea could provide and cultivated and planted many different crops such as
breadfruit and fruit trees of various kinds which were harvested and stored in
various ways to last longer than the harvest season. Fermentation was used as a
method. For example, <em>mahi </em>or <em>pōpoi </em>as it is also called was made.
It is breadfruit that has been mashed and left to lie in a low-oxygen
environment in a leaf-lined pit where it eventually fermented (by lactic acid
bacteria). Mahi could be stored for several years and is said to be both
nutritious and healthy. When the Polynesians colonized new islands, they
brought with them many of the important fruits and seeds and some domesticated
animals such as pigs and dogs that they needed to survive on the previously
uninhabited islands.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The Polynesians were very trade-oriented but
were also warlike and fights between the islands/kingdoms occurred. They
practiced a complex polytheistic religion that was intertwined with daily life
and social structure. Their spiritual beliefs revolved around <em>atua
</em> (gods), ancestors, <em>mana </em>(spiritual power) and <em>tapu </em>(sacred
restrictions). The word taboo comes from the Polynesian word tapu.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mana was a supernatural force that existed not only
in all living things but also inanimate things such as objects and places.
Chiefs and priests had strong mana, which gave them divine authority.
Women's mana was usually greater than men's because they could give bearth
(give life). Losing mana, through defeat in battle or breaking a tapu,
resulted in dishonor and loss of status. For example, it was tapu for a
woman to step in a canoe because her mana was much more powerful than
that of the canoe and the canoe would lose its power. This was especially
important to consider when the canoes were to be used in battle. Similarly, it
could be tapu to step over a chief's shadow if one was lower in rank.
Serious violations of a tapu could sometimes be punished by death.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Polynesians believed in a balance of masculine
and feminine energies, rather than fixed gender roles based on physical
appearance, and some myths describe gods or spirits who change sex or are
androgynous. Mana was therefore not strictly tied to biological sex, but
rather one's role in society. French Polynesia, like other parts of Polynesia,
had a recognized "third sex" known as <em>māhū</em>. These were people
who embodied both male and female characteristics. They were biological males
who took on female gender roles, including clothing, speech, and occupations.
In some cases, there were also female māhū who took on male roles. Māhū
had several important roles in society. They could often be priests, healers,
teachers or artists, specialized in oral traditions, dance forms and were
responsible for the care of children and the elderly. They were seen as
guardians of knowledge, and were a kind of cultural bearer of information about
different lineages, old stories and religious customs that they passed on
between generations. Chiefs could turn to a māhū for advice before important
decisions. After European colonization and the introduction of Christianity, māhū
were seen as an abomination and Western gender roles were introduced and many māhū
were subjected to social oppression and avoided showing their identity. Today,
however, māhū are still present in Polynesian and Hawaiian culture and are more
accepted, although their role has evolved and adapted to today's way of life.
Many today work in various service professions, for example.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The Polynesians were also known for their <em>tikis</em>,
human-like anthropomorphic figures carved from stone, wood or bone. According
to Polynesian mythology, the tiki is sometimes considered to be the
first human created by the gods, but interpretations vary between the different
island groups. In the Marquesas, tikis primarily represent ancestors and
protective spirits. They were often designed as half human and half animal or God
with enlarged heads and eyes. One interpretation of the large eyes (which
almost look like glasses) is that through the eyes one comes into contact with
the spirit world. Tikis are also often connected to spiritual protection,
strength and guidance.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We have now been anchored for just over two
weeks outside the capital Taiohae on the island of Nuku Hiva, which is also the
main island of the Marquesas. As soon as the hurricane season (cyclone season)
ends in April, the actual tourist season begins and many boats and tourists
come to the islands. We are early in the season so there is plenty of space in
the bay and few tourists on the island, except when the cruise ships dock, when
Taiohae is packed with people for a day. The lady in the tourist office next to
the port has all the information of when the cruise ships arrive and makes sure
to book the local ensemble of dancers and drummers who have their shows for the
fascinated cruise tourists. The trade in crafts, fruit and vegetables is
flourishing and the small local cafes are full. It is understandable that
tourists are an important source of income for the islands.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The clearance process was painless. We rang the
doorbell of the French gendarmes and even though we arrived outside office
hours, they received us and the procedure was completed in 10 minutes. We had
prepared ourselves by filling in our details digitally in a system used on the
islands and had our passports and boat papers with us. As EU citizens, the
rules for visiting and staying in French Polynesia are incredibly favorable.”
This is how easy it should be to get to France. Welcome!”, one of the gendarmes
said in broken English. Or, to be more precise. The guy started speaking in
English but as soon as he noticed that we knew a little French he switched to
his native language. 😊After customs we took out some cash,
got ourselves a local SIM card and topped up with data. Finally connected
again!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Nuku Hiva is a very beautiful island with high
mountain peaks and steep cliffs towards the sea with fantastic views. There are
several bays with good anchorages around the island. The second highest
(longest?) waterfall in the world is also said to be here. We rented a car and
drove on the few roads that exist. First, we went east and came to some smaller
towns with small fishing ports, shops and restaurants. The mango trees along
the road were full of half-ripe fruits and we took the liberty of picking some.
The island is lushly green and along the roadsides you can see pigs, horses and
goats and the occasional cow wandering around freely. Roosters and chickens can
be seen running around everywhere. Some horses are kept tethered and you can
see fenced areas, but there are just as many animals outside as inside the
enclosures.</p><p class="MsoNormal">In the small town of Hatiheu we had a fantastic meal. A stew made
from goat meat and coconut milk served with cassava, fried breadfruit and rice.
What we couldn't finish we then had to throw into a small stream, right next to
the restaurant where two large eels appeared and feasted on the leftovers. The
eels were "regulars" at the restaurant and part of the experience the
restaurant is known for.</p><p class="MsoNormal">Outside Hatiheu is one of several historical remains
from the time before European colonization. The place we visited is called Kamuihei and is one
of the largest archaeological excavations on the island. Here there are sacred
places, rebuilt houses and areas for various social purposes and we saw tikis,
sacrificial pits and small pits carved into rocks similar to those we can see
in rock carvings in Sweden. In addition, there were several petroglyphs on
large stone slabs with depictions of animals, gods, people and symbols that are
also found in the many tattoos of the Polynesians. Since the Polynesian culture
was a culture that was carried by oral stories and lacked written language,
interpretations are difficult to make and the meanings are said to vary
somewhat between the island groups, but archaeologists believe that they almost
always involve representations of gods, ancestors, travel, celestial bodies and
protective symbols. There was also a gigantic banyan tree at the site that is
said to be 600 years old!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The last part of our drive went west towards
the airport. Now we came to higher mountain areas, deep valleys and in the
distance, we could see a very long and very narrow waterfall. Instead of palm
trees and fruit trees, the road was lined with pine plantations with a species
of pine that originally comes from the Caribbean. The pines have been planted
mainly for the sake of the wood but have, of course, also changed the
conditions for the native species that lived there before.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">On the beach in Taiohae almost every day we saw
young guys riding back and forth on their horses. Sometimes they competed along
a given distance to be first. It was impressive to see because they were riding
bareback (without a saddle) at a fast gallop with only a blanket to sit on.
They looked mighty proud when we wanted to take pictures. However, we never saw
a girl riding. Horses now seem to be an integral part of Polynesian life but
the origin of horses is somewhat unclear. The most likely is that the Europeans
introduced different animals like horses, goats and cows to the islands.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The waters around the Marquesas Islands are
rich in life. The local fishermen come into the harbor almost every day with
fine catches of fish that they sell directly on site. The leftover fish after
cleaning is thrown into the harbor to the delight of the sharks. The sharks are
of the species (greater) blacktip reef shark. Not all residents in the area are
delighted with the spectacle in the water when the sharks fight over the
leftovers, but it is a good tourist magnet… 😊 In addition to the sharks, which are not particularly dangerous to
humans, we have also seen many manta rays swimming around our boat.
Unfortunately, we have not been able to get any good pictures of them and when
we snorkeled in the bay and tried to film, the visibility was too poor. Hopefully
there will be more opportunities. One morning we heard a terrible splash behind
the boat and when we ran out onto the deck to see what had happened, we saw a
sea turtle trying to free itself from the dinghy's mooring line that it had
managed to wrap around its neck. After a few fruitless attempts to untie the
rope, we were forced to cut it. As soon as the turtle felt it was free, it took
a big, loud breath before diving into the water and disappearing. How it
managed to get tangled up so strangely, we could never figure out…</p><p class="MsoNormal">On Valentine's Day we took the opportunity to have a three-course dinner at a restaurant in Taiohae where local musicians performed languid ballads. The next day we were also able to take part in a Valentine's Day party where both locals and tourists were welcome. The meal was accompanied by a show that was over an hour long and was more like a long danced story. We showed up later in the evening but still saw parts of the show. Later we were able to dance a little ourselves to deafening Polynesian popular music 😁</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In recent days, we have been stocking up on
supplies at the local store and buying a souvenir in the form of a mini-tiki
made of wood made by a local artist on the island.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now we are waiting out some rough weather
before we can set off for the Tuamotu atolls. Since these are shallow reefs
with few entrances or exits and where the currents are strong, we have to
adjust to the tides so that we enter when it is slack water. We hope to be able
to practice on a simpler atoll with more room for the boat to enter, before we
set off to reach the Fakarava atoll where we hope to see pearl farms!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Polynesien (betyder ungefär de många öarna) är en stor
kulturell och geografisk region i Stilla havet bestående av en mångfald av öar,
ögrupper och nationer där människorna delar samma ursprung och pratar något av
de många polynesiska språken. Polynesien avgränsas av Hawaii (i norr), Nya
Zeeland (i sydväst) och Påskön (i sydöst). Området benämns ibland som den polynesiska
triangeln.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Franska Polynesien är en del av Polynesien och är till ytan nästan
lika stort som Europa och består av 118 öar och atoller varav 67 är bebodda.
Öarna är indelade i olika ögrupper; Marquesas Islands, Tuamotu Archipelago,
Society Islands (Sällskapsöarna), Gambier Islands och Austral Islands. Det är
långa avstånd mellan ögrupperna där Gambieröarna och Australöarna ligger längst
söderut. Dessa sydligare ögrupper kommer vi troligen inte att besöka. Längre norrut, från
öst till väst ligger Marquesas, Tuamotu och Sällskapsöarna där Tahiti med
huvudstaden Papeete kanske är den mest kända. Någon ö på var och en av dessa ögrupper
har vi tänkt besöka innan vi ger oss av längre västerut till andra Polynesiska
öar/nationer.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Öarna i Franska Polynesien har alla bildats från vulkaner
och de yngsta är ungefär 1-5 miljoner år gamla, som t ex öarna på Marquesas, De
äldsta öarna ligger i Australöarna och Tuamotu och är runt 50 miljoner år
gamla. De äldsta öarna är inga egentliga öar längre utan årmiljonernas
erodering har förvandlat dem till atoller där bara vissa delar sticker upp ur
havsytan.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Öarna i Franska Polynesien bosattes först av
austronesisktalande polynesier, som troligen härstammade från Sydostasien
(Taiwan-Filippinerna) och migrerade österut via Samoa och Tonga. Denna
migration var en del av den stora polynesiska expansionen över Stilla havet. I Franska
Polynesien började den vid Marquesas några hundra år f Kr och de sista öarna
som koloniserades av polynesier tror man var Gambieröarna som också blev de öar
där en grupp invånare förmodligen emigrerade och fortsatte den långa färden till
Påskön och senare Hawaii som började befolkas runt 1000 respektive 1200-talet e
Kr. En förutsättning till den starka expansionen, trots de stora avstånden i
Stilla havet, var de sofistikerade navigeringsfärdigheter som Polynesierna hade
utvecklat. De navigerade med hjälp av stjärnor, havsströmmar och fåglars
migrationsmönster. De använde sig av de karakteristiska träkanoterna med en
utriggare (extra skrov) fäst på ena sidan av kanoten. Dessa kanoter var mycket
stabila och kunde både paddlas och seglas. Idag används fortfarande samma typ
av kanoter men tillverkade av modernare material.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Första gången européer kom i kontakt med öarna var på 1500-talet
då portugiser och spanjorer noterade att öarna fanns men de hade troligen ingen
större kontakt med invånarna. 1767 landsteg britten Samuel Wallis på Tahiti och
deklarerade ön som brittisk. Protestantism infördes sedan på ön. Fransmän tog
så småningom över Tahiti efter dispyter och strider med britter och
befolkningen på öarna under den dåvarande polynesiska regenten Drottning Pomare
IV. I början av 1900-talet tillhörde
alla fem ögrupperna Frankrike och katolicismen blev den officiella religionen. Idag
har Franska Polynesien mer självstyre men räknas fortfarande som ett av Frankrikes
så kallade utomeuropeiska förvaltningsområden där Frankrike behåller kontrollen
över försvar, utrikespolitik, rättsväsende och valuta (CFP-francen är knuten
till euron). Franska Polynesien kontrollerar numera sina egna lagar, ekonomi,
budget, hälsa, utbildning (delvis) och inre säkerhet. Vad vi förstått verkar det inte
längre finnas majoritetsstöd hos befolkningen på öarna för fullständig
självständighet från Frankrike men man försöker istället ta vara på den egna
gamla kulturen bättre och har, med historikers och arkeologers hjälp, börjat
återupptäcka och omfamna delar av den som exempelvis danser, hantverk och
mattraditioner.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Den Polynesiska ursprungskulturen och dess traditioner
varierar mellan öarna men har en gemensam kärna. Innan den europeiska
koloniseringen var befolkningen organiserad i hierarkiska hövdingadömen styrda
av <em>Ari’i </em>(hövdingar). Under hövdingarna fanns flera olika samhällsskikt
och lägst stående var slavarna som ofta var dömda brottslingar eller tillfångatagna
fiender. Polynesierna kunde bygga imponerande strukturer som <em>marae </em>som
var heliga tempel för religiösa och sociala ändamål. Man levde på vad havet
kunde ge samt odlade och planterade många olika grödor som exempelvis brödfrukt
och fruktträd av olika slag som man skördade och lagrade på olika sätt för att
vara längre än skördesäsongen. Bl a användes fermentering som en metod. T ex
gjorde man <em>mahi </em>eller <em>pōpoi </em>som det också kallas. Det är
brödfrukt som mosats och fått ligga syrefattigt i en lövbeklädd grop där den så
småningom fermenterade (genom mjölksyrabakterier). Mahin kunde lagras i flera
år och sägs vara både näringsrik och nyttig. När polynesierna koloniserade nya
öar hade de med sig många av de viktiga frukter och frön och vissa tamdjur som
grisar och hundar som de behövde för att överleva på de tidigare obebodda öarna.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Polynesierna idkade mycket handel men var också stridslystna
och krig mellan öarna/kungadömen förekom. De utövade en komplex polyteistisk
religion som var sammanflätad med det dagliga livet och den sociala strukturen.
Deras andliga övertygelser kretsade kring <em>atua </em>(gudar), förfäder, <em>mana
</em> (andlig kraft) och <em>tapu </em>(heliga begränsningar). Ordet tabu kommer
just från polynesiskans tapu.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mana var en övernaturlig kraft som inte bara fanns i alla
levande varelser utan även döda ting som föremål och platser. Hövdingar och
präster hade stark mana, vilket gav dem gudomlig auktoritet. Kvinnors mana
var vanligen större än männens på grund av att de kunde föda barn (ge liv). Att
förlora mana, genom nederlag i strid eller bryta en tapu,
resulterade i vanära och förlust av status. T ex var det tapu för en
kvinna att kliva på en kanot då hennes mana var mycket mäktigare än
kanotens och kanoten s a s förlorade sin kraft. Detta var särskilt viktigt att
ta hänsyn till när kanoterna skulle användas i strider. Likaså kunde det vara tapu
att kliva över en hövdings skugga om man stod lägre i rang. Att allvarligt
bryta mot en tapu kunde ibland bestraffas med döden.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Polynesier trodde på en balans mellan maskulina och feminina
energier, snarare än bestämda könsroller beroende på hur man såg ut fysiskt och
vissa myter beskriver gudar eller andar som byter kön eller är androgyna. Manan
var därför inte strikt knuten till biologiskt kön, utan snarare ens roll i
samhället. Franska Polynesien, liksom andra delar av Polynesien, hade ett
erkänt "tredje kön" känt som <em>māhū</em>. Dessa var människor som
förkroppsligade både manliga och kvinnliga egenskaper. De var biologiska män
som tog på sig kvinnliga könsroller, inklusive kläder, tal och yrken. I vissa
fall fanns det även kvinnliga māhū som tog på sig manliga roller. <a name="_Hlk191066362">Māhū </a>hade flera viktiga roller i samhället.
Ofta kunde de vara präster, helare, lärare eller konstnärer, specialiserade på
muntliga traditioner, dansformer och ansvarade för omsorg av barn och äldre. De
sågs som kunskapens väktare, och var en slags kulturbärare av informationen om
olika släktled, gamla berättelser och religiösa sedvänjor som de förde vidare
mellan generationer. Hövdingar kunde vända sig till en māhū för att få
råd inför viktiga beslut. Efter den europeiska koloniseringen och införandet av
kristendom sågs Māhū som en styggelse och västerländska könsroller
infördes och många māhū utsattes för socialt förtryck och undvek att
visa sin identitet. Idag är dock māhū fortfarande närvarande i den
polynesiska och hawaiianska kulturen och är mer accepterade, även om deras roll
har utvecklats och anpassats till dagens levnadssätt. Många arbetar idag exempelvis
inom olika serviceyrken.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Polynesierna var också kända för sina <em>tikis</em>,
människoliknande antropomorfiska figurer, uthuggna ur sten, trä eller ben.
Enligt polynesisk mytologi anses tiki ibland vara den första människan
som skapats av gudarna men tolkningarna varierar på de olika ögrupperna. På
Marquesas representerar tikis främst förfäder och skyddande andar. Ofta utformades
de som hälften människa och hälften djur eller gud med förstorade huvuden och
ögon. En tolkning av de stora ögonen (som nästan ser ut som glasögon) är att
genom ögonen kommer man i kontakt med andevärlden. Tikis är ofta också
kopplade till andligt skydd, styrka och vägledning.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi har nu legat för ankar i drygt två veckor utanför
huvudorten Taiohae på ön Nuku Hiva som också är huvudön i Marquesas. Så fort
orkansäsongen (cyklonsäsongen) är avslutad i april börjar den egentliga
turistsäsongen och då kommer många båtar och turister till öarna. Vi är tidigt
ute på säsongen så det är gott om plats i viken och få turister på ön, förutom
när kryssningsfartygen lägger till för då kryllar det av folk Taiohae under en
dag. Damen i turistbyrån intill hamnen har full koll på när kryssningsfartygen
kommer och ser till att boka den lokala ensemblen av dansare och trumslagare som
har sina uppvisningar inför hänförda kryssningsturister. Kommersen med
hantverk, frukt och grönt blommar upp och de små lokala caféerna fylls. Man
förstår att turisterna utgör en viktig inkomstkälla för öarna.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Inklareringen gick smärtfritt. Vi ringde på dörren hos de
franska gendarmerna och fast vi kom utanför kontorstid tog de emot oss och
proceduren var klar på 10 minuter. Vi hade förberett oss genom att fylla i våra
uppgifter digitalt i ett system som används på öarna och hade passen och
båtpapprena med oss. Som EU-medborgare är reglerna för att besöka och stanna i
Franska Polynesien otroligt förmånliga.” Så här enkelt skall det vara att komma
till Frankrike. Välkomna!”, sa en av gendarmerna på knagglig engelska. Eller,
rättare sagt. Killen började prata på engelska men så fort han konstaterade att
vi kunde lite franska gick han över till sitt modersmål. 😊Efter
inklareringen tog vi ut lite kontanter, skaffade oss ett lokalt sim-kort och
fyllde på med data. Äntligen uppkopplade igen!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Nuku Hiva är en väldigt vacker ö med höga bergstoppar och
branta stup mot havet med fantastiska vyer. Det finns flera vikar med bra
ankringsplatser runt ön. Här lär också den näst högsta (längsta?) vattenfallet
i världen finnas. Vi hyrde en bil och körde på de få vägarna som finns. Först
åkte vi österut och kom till några mindre orter med små fiskehamnar, affärer
och restauranger. Mangoträden längs vägen dignade av halvmogna frukter och vi
tog oss friheten att plocka några. Ön är frodigt grön och vid vägkanterna kan
man se grisar, hästar och getter och en och annan ko vandra runt fritt. Tuppar
och hönor syns sprätta överallt. Vissa hästar hålls tjudrade och man ser
inhägnade områden men det går lika många djur utanför som innanför hägnen.</p><p class="MsoNormal">På
den lilla orten Hatiheu åt vi en fantastiskt god måltid. En gryta gjord på
getkött och kokosmjölk serverat med kassava, friterad brödfrukt samt ris. Det
vi inte orkade äta upp fick vi sedan slänga i en liten bäck, precis intill
restaurangen där det dök upp två stora ålar som kalasade på resterna. Ålarna
var ”stammisar” på restaurangen och en del av upplevelsen restaurangen är känd
för.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Utanför Hatiheu finns en av flera historiska lämningar från
tiden innan européernas kolonisering. Platsen vi besökte heter Kamuihei och är
en av de största arkeologiska utgrävningarna på ön. Här finns heliga platser,
återuppbyggda hus och ytor för olika sociala ändamål och vi såg tikis, offergropar
och skålgropar uthuggna i stenar liknande dem vi kan se på hällristningar i
Sverige. Dessutom fanns flera petroglyfer på stora stenhällar med avbildningar
av djur, gudar, människor och symboler som också återfinns i polynesiernas
många tatueringar. Eftersom den polynesiska kulturen var en kultur som bars av
muntliga berättelser och saknade skriftspråk är tolkningar svåra att göra och betydelserna
sägs variera något mellan ögrupperna men arkeologerna menar att det nästan
alltid handlar om representationer av gudar, förfäder, resor, himlakroppar och
skyddssymboler. På platsen fanns också ett gigantiskt banjanträd som påstås
vara 600 år gammalt!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Sista delen av vår bilfärd gick västerut mot flygplatsen. Nu
kom vi till högre bergsområden, djupa dalgångar och på håll kunde vi se en
mycket långt och väldigt smalt vattenfall. Istället för palmer och fruktträd kantades
vägen av tallplanteringar med en art av tall som ursprungligen kommer från
Karibien. Tallarna har främst planterats för virkets skull men har, såklart,
också förändrat villkoren för de inhemska arterna som levde där tidigare.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">På stranden i Taiohae såg vi nästan varje dag unga killar
som red fram och tillbaka på sina hästar. Ibland tävlade de längs en given
sträcka om att komma först. Det var imponerande att se eftersom de red barbacka
(utan sadel) i snabb galopp med endast en filt att sitta på. De såg mäkta
stolta ut när vi ville ta kort. Vi såg dock aldrig någon tjej rida. Hästarna
verkar numera vara en integrerad del av polynesiernas liv men hästarnas ursprung
är något oklart. Det troligaste är att européerna införde flera djur som hästar, getter
och kor till öarna.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vattnen kring öarna i Marquesas är rika på liv. De lokala
fiskarna kommer in till hamnen nästan varje dag med fina fiskfångster som de
säljer direkt på plats. Fiskresterna efter rensningen kastas i hamnen till
hajarnas förtjusning. Hajarna är av arten större svartfenad revhaj. Inte alla boende
i området är förtjusta över spektaklet i vattnet när hajarna slåss om resterna
men det utgör en bra turistmagnet… 😊 Förutom hajarna, som trots allt inte är
särskilt farliga för människor, har vi också sett många mantor simma runt vår
båt. Tyvärr har det inte gått att få några bra bilder på dem och när vi
snorklade i viken och försökte filma var sikten för dålig. Förhoppningsvis
kommer fler tillfällen. En morgon hörde vi ett fasligt plaskade bakom båten och
när vi sprang ut på däck ut för att se vad som hänt såg vi en havssköldpadda
som försökte komma loss från dingens förtöjningslina som den lyckats linda runt
halsen. Efter några fruktlösa försök att vrida loss linan blev vi tvungna att
kapa den. Så fort sköldpaddan kände att den var fri tog den ett stort och
ljudligt andetag innan den dök ner i vattnet och försvann. Hur den lyckats
trassla in sig så konstigt kunde vi dock aldrig lista ut…</p><p class="MsoNormal">På alla hjärtans dag passade vi på att äta en trerätters middag på en restaurang i Taiohae där lokala musiker framförde smäktande ballader. Dagen efter kunde vi också ta del av en alla hjärtans dag-fest där både lokalbor och turister var välkomna. Till maten framfördes en show som var över en timme lång och var mer som en dansad lång berättelse. Vi dök upp senare på kvällen men såg ändå delar av uppvisningen. senare kunde vi själva dansa lite till öronbedövande polyneisisk populärmusik 😁 </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">De senaste dagarna har vi provianterat lite i den lokala
affären och köpt en souvenir i form av en mini-tiki i trä gjord av en lokal
konstnär på ön.</p>
<p>Nu väntar vi ut lite oroligt väder innan vi kan ge oss
av till atollerna i Tuamotu. Eftersom det rör sig om grunda rev med få in-
eller utgångar och där strömmarna är starka måste vi passa tidvattentiderna så
att vi kommer in när det är slack. Vi hoppas kunna träna på en enklare atoll med
större utrymme för båten att komma in, innan vi ger oss på att nå atollen Fakarava
där vi hoppas kunna få se pärlodlingar!</p><p><br></p><p><em>Show for tourists</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ezxgysC0OJI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><p><em>Different tikis. Some old and some new</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250205_153918.jpg?1740271343" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153918.jpg?1740271343 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153918.jpg?1740271343 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153918.jpg?1740271343 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153918.jpg?1740271343 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153918.jpg?1740271343 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153918.jpg?1740271343?1740271343" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343?1740271343" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343?1740271343" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343?1740271343" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Views from land</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599?1740271599" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599?1740271599" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599?1740271599" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Animals pasturing freely</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748?1740271748" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WYwB6cWdUCQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><p><em>Hatiheu. eels feasting on leftovers</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7jH2Oq1laO4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><em>Kamuihei arheological site</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p> <br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Horse riding</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WBR_pHo89Bw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><em>Sharks at the harbour</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IQW7ruvLkCk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><em>Polynesian Traditional Canoes </em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Valentine's Day (Malin WAS happy!)</em></p><p> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240?1740291240" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240?1740291240" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240?1740291240" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ez_m9Hdbaeg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br>Sat, 22 Feb 2025 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/february-2025/french-polynesia-nuku-hiva-and-the-marquesas
/blog/february-2025/french-polynesia-nuku-hiva-and-the-marquesasPacific crossingMalin<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The entire 3100 nautical miles crossing from
Galapagos to French Polynesia took us just under 22 days to complete. We had
favorable winds for most of the crossing as well as a westerly current of about
1 knot. Despite the fact that the weather files we downloaded every day
recommended other routes, we were able to maintain a fairly straight course
towards our destination, the island of Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas archipelago.
The average speed we maintained was almost 6 knots, which can be considered a
good average speed for Anastacia.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">On all longer crossings, we write down our
position every few hours and plot it on a paper chart as part of “dead
reckoning”. The data we obtained showed that on some days we maintained a good
speed and covered 170 nautical miles/day with an average speed of over 7 knots.
One day we had almost no wind at all and did 75 nautical miles in a whole day.
Then we took the opportunity to swim holding on to a rope behind the boat. A
wonderful experience to get a proper clean! 😊. Then we also discovered how much growth Anastacia had on her hull. A
lot of gooseneck barnacles had gotten stuck under her… That means more hull
cleaning in the future for us…😒</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">During most of the sailing we were able to use
our downwind sail (Blue water runner) either fully on both sides of the boat
(goose wing) or double-folded as a large gennaker. The experience from the
Atlantic crossing, where the halyard was chafed in the mast, had taught us the
importance of sewing in extra chafing protection in the halyard where the wear
was the greatest and also being careful to, at regular intervals, change the
positions of both halyard and sheet to avoid too much chafing at the same spot.
It paid off and despite the hundreds of hours the sail was up, nothing serious
happened. The only thing that occurred was that a small line in the halyard
fastening broke one night, but we were able to quickly fix that by hauling down
the sail and securing it with a new piece of rope. Our third crew member, the
wind rudder, had to work non-stop and had done its job brilliantly. We are
still amazed by this mechanical marvel that steers the boat after the wind with
such elegance. The autopilot has been allowed to rest during the entire trip,
which also contributed to low power consumption. We are also a little proud
that we have not had to use the engine for anything other than sporadically
charging the boat's batteries and running the water maker. We have really been
able to sail the whole time! 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We have also taken the opportunity to practice the so called heave
to, which we have never done before with Anastacia. It required a little
trimming of the sail and rudder until we could reduce the speed from 7 to 0.8
knots in relatively high waves. Now we have agreed that we will practice heave
to until both of us can solve it on our own. It can be important to slow down
the boat in rough weather or emergencies.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">At regular intervals, we have had text contact
with family via Iridium Go (satellite phone) and the crew of the Swedish boat S/Y Kerpa who also
sailed to the Marquesas but started the crossing from Panama. Being without
internet for so long was a challenge for us at the beginning but something we
also got used to relatively quickly and eventually didn't miss at all…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The voyage has otherwise been quite uneventful.
We created routines to be able to get through the days. We ate all meals
together and made sure they ended up between our four-hour watch shifts. The
waves were sometimes big and caused the boat to roll a lot. Sleeping was
sometimes a challenge and we had to help each other give each other extra sleep
time when possible. We have done daily inspection rounds of the boat to check
the ropes, mast, boom and sails. We have devoted ourselves to cooking in a
kitchenette, where just about everything is moving all the time and, at regular
intervals, baked bread, made yogurt, etc. We have spent time on maintenance,
such as renovating the chafing protections for the ropes and stays. We have
read books, learned a little more about sea weather and navigation with a
sextant. At night we could observe the starry sky of the southern hemisphere
where only a few stars and constellations were familiar to us. The North Star
had disappeared below the northern horizon and the guidance for the compass
directions was replaced instead by the constellation of the Southern Cross to
the south. The moon appeared to lie like a small smiley in the sky when it was
new. We noted that at no time during the voyage did we see any airplanes in the
sky, nor have we seen any other boats. We have seen storm-petrels, however,
almost every day. It is incredible that these birds can fly out to sea when the
nearest landmass is 1,500 nautical miles away! We have looked in vain for
whales. However, we were able to see large schools of
dolphins in the distance, a few days after we left the Galapagos. They jumped
several meters into the air before landing with a thunderous splash! A real
spectacle! Christer caught two tunas (Skipjack tuna). They were enough for a
week's dinner for the two of us, but after that there was a fishing ban on
Anastacia! Sometimes you can have too much of a good thing! 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, after the longest sailing we have ever
done, we have finally reached land and are anchored outside the village of
Taiohae on the main island of Nuku Hiva. We celebrated with a beer and some
chips in the cockpit. A bit festive as there is an absolute ban on alcohol on
the boat while sailing… After an uncomplicated clearance at the French
gendarmerie on the island, we went to bed and slept for over 12 hours! Now a
few months of exploring the different island in Polynesia awaits 😊</p><p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hela överfarten på 3100 sjömil från Galapagos till Franska
Polynesien tog oss knappt 22 dygn att genomföra. Vi hade gynnsamma vindar den
största delen av överfarten liksom medström med ca 1 knops fart. Trots att
väderfilerna vi laddade ner varje dag rekommenderade andra rutter kunde vi
hålla en någorlunda rak kurs mot målet, ön Nuku Hiva i ögruppen Marquesas. Snittfarten
vi höll var nästan 6 knop vilket får anses vara en bra medelfart för Anastacia.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vid alla längre överfarter skriver vi upp vår position med
några timmars mellanrum och plottar ut på ett papperssjökort som en del i ”dead
reckoning”. Den data vi fick fram visade att vi vissa dygn höll god fart och
tillryggalade 170 nautiska mil/dygn med en snittfart på över 7 knop. En dag
hade vi nästan ingen vind alls och gjorde 75 nautiska mil på ett helt dygn. Då
passade vi på att bada hållandes i ett rep efter båten. En underbar upplevelse
att få bli ordentligt ren! 😊. Då upptäckte vi också så mycket påväxt Anastacia
hade fått på sin botten. En massa s k långhalsar (Gooseneck barnacles) hade
fastnat under henne… Det innebär mer bottenskrapning framöver för vår del…😒</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Under större delen av seglingen kunde vi använda vårt medvindssegel
(Blue water runner) Antingen fullt ut på båda sidor om båten (goose wing) eller
dubbelvikt som en stor gennaker. Erfarenheterna från Atlantöverfarten, där
fallet skavts sönder i masten, hade lärt oss vikten av att sy in extra
skavskydd i fallet där nötningen var som störst och dessutom vara noga med att,
med jämna mellanrum, ändra på positionerna för både fall och skot för att
undvika för stort skav på samma punkt. Det betalade sig och trots de hundratals
timmar seglet var uppe skedde inget allvarligt. Det enda som hände var att en
liten tamp i fästet mot fallet brast en natt men det kunde vi snabbt åtgärda
genom att hala ner seglet och fästa med en ny repstump. Vår tredje
besättningsmedlem, vindrodret, har fått arbeta oavbrutet och skötte sitt arbete
med bravur. Vi är fortfarande förundrade över detta mekaniska underverk som
styr båten efter vinden med sådan elegans. Autopiloten har fått vila under hela
resan vilket också bidragit till låg strömförbrukning. Lite stolta är vi också
över att inte ha behövt använda motorn till annat än att sporadiskt ladda båtens
batterier och köra watermakern för att göra vatten. Vi har verkligen kunnat
segla hela tiden! 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi har också passat på att öva på att dreja bi, vilket vi
aldrig gjort tidigare med Anastacia. Det krävde lite trimning av segel och
roder tills vi kunde få ner farten från 7 till 0,8 knop i relativt höga vågor.
Nu är vi överens om att vi skall träna på att dreja bi tills båda kan lösa det
på egen hand. Det kan vara viktigt att få ner båtens fart vid hårt väder eller
nödsituationer.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Med jämna mellanrum har vi haft sms-kontakt med familjen via
Iridium Go (satellittelefon) samt besättningen på den svenska båten S/Y Kerpa som också seglade
till Marquesas men startade överfarten från Panama. Att vara utan internet så
länge var en utmaning för oss i början men något vi också vande oss vid
relativt snabbt och till slut inte saknade alls…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Färden har i övrigt varit ganska händelsefattig. Vi skapade
rutiner för att kunna få dagarna att gå. Alla måltider åt vi tillsammans och
såg till att de hamnade mellan våra fyratimars vaktpass. Vågorna var tidvis
stora och gjorde att båten rullade en hel del. Att sova blev ibland en utmaning
och vi fick hjälpas åt att ge varandra extra sömntid när det var möjligt. Vi
har gått dagliga kontrollrundor på båten för att se över tampar, mast, bom och
segel. Vi har ägnat oss åt matlagning i ett pentry, där precis allting rör sig
hela tiden och, med jämna mellanrum, bakat bröd, gjort yoghurt mm. Vi har ägnat
tid åt underhåll, som att renovera skavskydd till tampar och stag. Vi har läst
böcker, lärt oss lite mer om sjöväder och navigation med sextant. På nätterna
kunde vi betrakta södra halvklotets stjärnhimmel där bara några få stjärnor och
stjärnbilder var bekanta för oss. Polstjärnan hade försvunnit under norra
horisonten och vägledningen för väderstrecken ersattes istället av stjärnbilden
södra korset mot syd. Månen syntes liggandes som en liten smiley på himlavalvet
när den var ny. Vi noterade att vi inte under någon tidpunkt på seglatsen sett
några flygplan på himlen inte heller har vi sett några andra båtar. Stormsvalor
har vi däremot sett nästan varje dag. Otroligt att dessa fåglar kan flyga ute
till havs när närmaste landmassa ligger 1500 sjömil bort! Vi har förgäves
spanat efter valar, utan att se några. Stora flockar med delfiner kunde vi dock
beskåda på avstånd, några dygn efter att vi lämnat Galapagos. De hoppade flera
meter upp i luften innan de landade med ett hejdundrande plask! Ett riktigt
skådespel! Christer fick upp två tonfiskar (Skipjack tuna). De räckte till en
veckas middagar för oss två men därefter rådde fiskeförbud på Anastacia! Det
kan ibland bli för mycket av det goda! 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Nu, efter den längsta seglats vi någonsin gjort har vi
äntligen nått land och ligger för ankar utanför byn Taiohae på huvudön Nuku
Hiva. Vi firade med varsin öl och lite chips i sittbrunnen. Lite högtidslikt då
det råder absolut alkoholförbud på båten under färd… Efter en okomplicerad
inklarering vid det franska gendarmeriet på ön lade vi oss och sov i över 12
timmar! Nu väntar några månaders utforskande av de olika ögrupperna i
Polynesien 😊</p><p><br></p><p><em>A short video from the crossing</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/X3kdFzUfXxc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>A happy fisherman</em> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587?1738988587" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587?1738988587" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Chafing protection. Before and after...</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762?1738988762" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762?1738988762" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>Thu, 06 Feb 2025 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/february-2025/pacific-crossing
/blog/february-2025/pacific-crossingGalapagosMalin<p class="MsoNormal">The entire
Galapagos archipelago and its waters belong to Ecuador. The area is considered
the world's second largest marine reserve with its 133,000 km2 and is
classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a unique animal and plant life.
The archipelago consists of 19 larger islands, 4 of which are inhabited, plus a
further 110 uninhabited small islets and rocks. The islands are all volcanic
islands and lie at the intersection of three continental plates. The islands
belong to the northern part of the Nazca plate, on the border with the
so-called Cocos plate in the north. To the west, it borders the South American
continental plate. The Nazca plate is slowly drifting in a southeasterly
direction towards the South American continental plate at a speed of about 5 cm
per year. The movement causes new volcanoes to arise to the west and the most
recent eruption on the Galapagos took place in March 2024 on the westernmost
island of Fernandina. It is believed that the islands began to form five to ten
million years ago and the difference in age between the islands varies, with
the oldest, easternmost islands (San Cristóbal and Española) being several
million years older than the westernmost (Isabela and Fernandina). The islands
are believed to have been uninhabited until the first Spaniards from Panama
arrived there in the 16th century. When we spoke to residents of Santa Cruz,
many referred to the “Pirate age”. It turned out to be a period in the 16th and
17th centuries when many pirate ships, who made plundering raids on the
mainland, were able to escape to the archipelago and, among other things, feed
on the large land tortoises that were on the islands. In fact, the name
Galapagos means tortoise.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Unfortunately,
the first visitors to the islands brought with them other animal species that
caused damage to the islands. Perhaps the worst was the rats, which multiplied
rapidly and fed on the animals that were already on the islands; baby turtles,
lizards, small iguanas, etc. The lack of mammals and larger predators meant
that the species that lived on the islands became easy prey as they were
completely fearless. To solve the rat problem, cats were eventually introduced,
but they found lizards, iguanas and fearless birds being easier prey than the cautious
rats. On several islands, entire species got extinguished because of this.
Goats and stray dogs have also been major problems. Dogs are now only kept as
pets and under control. Feral cats are still found on some islands. We
ourselves saw a small wild cat chasing a lizard when we walked to a beach on
Santa Cruz. In recent years, it has been possible to remove all foreign species
on some islands and several projects are underway to replant many of the
animals and plants that have disappeared. However, it is also known that
several species have unfortunately become completely extinct.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">During the
25 days we stayed in the Galapagos, we stayed anchored in Academy Bay near the
town of Puerto Ayora on the main island of Santa Cruz. It is also allowed to
sail to three more islands in the archipelago, but after just a few days, we
didn't think it was worth the trouble with the permits that we had to arrange
with our agent for each island. At each island you have to clear in and out and
pay a small national park fee in addition to the fees we had already paid to be
able to sail here at all. In addition, Puerto Ayora was the port with the best
facilities and where it was easiest to refuel the boat and be able to clear out
of the Galapagos when leaving. It is clear that the islanders focus on tourists
who come to the islands by plane to be able to service them when they ask for accommodations,
food, activities, etc. Leisure boat tourists, like us, requires more work with
checks of the boat and crew and less income for the islands. To get to and from
the island from the boat, we could call a taxi boat. It cost a dollar per
person and was well worth the small fee. You can use your own dinghy if you
want, but in reality, it is not possible as there is nowhere to dock on land.
In addition, the sea lions could quickly take possession of the boat for their
rest when they are not catching fish in the sea outside. When we stepped ashore
on Santa Cruz, it was amazing to see how fearless all the animals we
encountered were. Sea lions and iguanas lay calmly sunbathing in the middle of
the hustle and bustle of the city of Puerto Ayora and various birds sat
completely fearlessly in the middle of visitors and preened their feathers.
Tourism makes up more than 80% of the islands' economy and we quickly realized
that here, as in many other places we have visited, they do everything they can
to make a few pennies from visitors. The taxi boats were just one example. In
Puerto Ayora, the streets were full of small travel agencies offering tickets
for fast ferries between the islands, sightseeing tours on land as well as
diving or snorkeling trips. Drivers hailed from their white pickup taxis and
asked if we wanted a ride. There are very few areas on the islands where you
can roam freely in nature or snorkel on your own. Basically, all places require
you to have a guide with you. The lasting impression was like being in a
gigantic zoo. However, it must be admitted that the guided tours were well
organized and the guides were consistently very knowledgeable. We also made
sure that they were kept busy, as inquisitive as we are…😊. Nowadays, all guides and park rangers in the
Galapagos must be certified and continuously trained and also reside on one of
the islands. Everyone we met was also really professional and concerned that we
would have a good experience but also very clear about the rules that applied
so as not to harm animals or plants in any way.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The first
visit we made, was to the Charles Darwin Research Station. Here we were given a
brief overview of Darwin's visit to the islands in 1835 and how his studies of
life on the Galapagos played a role in his theory of natural selection. Among
other things, he was able to see with his own eyes how finches had adapted over
time on the different islands depending on what food they could mainly eat. The
shape of the beaks had changed and looked different depending on which island
the finches lived on. It was a somewhat reverent moment for us to visit places
that have become so important for our understanding of how species developed on
earth... The research center also breeds several of the 15 different species of
large tortoises found on the different islands. They wait until the tortoises
are 5 years old before they are released. Only then are the tortoises' shells
hard enough to prevent them from falling victim to rats. 5 years may seem like
a lot, but on the other hand, tortoises live around 150 years! The research
center is very active in various educational projects for both residents and
visitors. Scientists from all over the world come here to study animal and plant
life on land and in the sea. Many projects are focused on the conservation of
endangered species and restoration. Other projects aim to find more sustainable
energy alternatives on the islands and how to tackle the problem of the
enormous amount of plastic waste that flows ashore on the islands via ocean
currents. Illegal fishing in the seas outside is another major problem that is
being addressed, where unfortunately China stands out as being particularly
active. Since the fishing boats turn off their transponders, AIS, etc., they
become almost impossible to track for the few coast guard vessels that patrol
the entire reserve. We ourselves have been surprised when we have sailed at
night and suddenly seen lights from fishing boats appear just a few nautical
miles away that we have not been able to track via our plotter (AIS). When we
have sailed past them, they have turned off their lanterns again and thus made
themselves completely invisible again. Now we understand what could have been
the reason…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We also
visited a reserve for land tortoises and saw them roaming around completely
freely. They like to graze together with the cows that are kept on the island
and the tortoises are so big that they sometimes force their way through the
cow enclosures so that the cows also come out – much to the farmers’ annoyance.
On the way there, we saw giant land tortoises crossing the roads in slow
motion, where traffic had to stop to let them pass. The taxi driver told us
that only park rangers are allowed to move tortoises that are on the road and
drivers can be fined the equivalent of several months’ wages and even jail time
if they hit a tortoise. It’s simply a matter of being patient…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We also
booked a snorkeling trip to the small island of Pinzón to see more of the
underwater life. Unfortunately, the visibility was poor but we managed to film
some of it. In fact, where Anastacia was lying, there was also a lot of life,
both in and on the water. Reef sharks, large sea turtles and iguanas swam
around the boat. A lot of different seabirds, in addition to the more common
frigate birds and pelicans, visited us. We saw several Blue Footed Boobys which
have become a bit of a symbol of the Galapagos. Then we have a special
relationship with a Galapagos heron which often returned and almost settled on
the boat. We called the bird Sture but had no idea if it was a female or a
male. Sture seemed to think the boat was a perfect place to stand to watch for
fish. We also saw him catch a fish which turned out to be too big for him to
swallow. After several failed attempts Sture released the fish into our cockpit
and watched for more fish. The next day the fish was still there and had
probably been desperately squirming around before it finally died so we had to
clean up the entire cockpit. Christer threw the fish into the sea and Sture,
who was still sitting on the railing, looked at him angrily. Apparently, he
thought it was a shame to throw away the food he had spent so much energy
catching… We were also soon visited by a sea lion who parked on Anastacia’s
small swimming platform. We had thought that the platform was too small for sea
lions, but this individual didn’t think so and stayed there all night.
Unfortunately, the sea lion left a big business card behind on the platform
that smelled really bad and we had to spend a good while washing everything
off. After that, we placed two large ball fenders in the stern and avoided
further visits.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Christmas
was celebrated with traditional Christmas porridge made from plain rice and
other improvised food for our small Christmas table on the boat. Of course, we
had made sure to bring the obligatory Italian Panettone, bought in Panama,
which we enjoyed with our coffee. New Year's Eve, which was also Christer's
birthday, was first celebrated with breakfast on the boat with cream cake and a
little later in the day, homemade birthday panna cotta garnished with toasted,
candied coconut flakes was served, followed by gift-giving and beautiful
singing performed by the lady on the boat. In the evening, we had a delicious
sea-inspired dinner at a nice restaurant where we got a table on a balcony
overlooking the water. Then we celebrated the old year with thousands of other
Galapagos residents from both Santa Cruz and other islands + a lot of tourists
who strolled the streets and bought something from the street vendors who
crowded along the main street in Puerto Ayora. A small funfair with a train
track for the youngest visitors had been set up at one end of the street. To
our surprise, we saw that the staff, with young, enthusiastic helpers, were
helping to push the train with all the carriages around the track. The children
rode and screamed with delight and had fun and the parents watched. Just like
at any other funfair, although this one was operated by hand without motors or
electricity 😊. The city had also arranged
entertainment throughout the evening and night in the square, with artists from
Colombia, among others. At midnight, the cheers broke out. No fireworks or
light shows but a thunderous roar from the stage and cheering people everywhere.
At two o'clock we took a boat taxi back to Anastacia and heard the music from
the harbor well into the morning. When we, on January 2nd, went ashore again to
buy some vegetables, we were surprised that so few shops were open. Now we
found out that the Ecuadorian president, Daniel Noboa, had declared a national
holiday from New Year's until after the Epiphany! We had to wait with the
vegetables…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The only
disappointment during our visit was that we had a cold last week, which meant
we had to cancel a diving trip to the island Isla Seymour Norte, just north of
Santa Cruz. There we could have seen more species, including reef sharks and
hammerhead sharks! However, we hope to have that chance later on in our
sailing. Now we are preparing the boat for the longest crossing we will make.
We have just over 3000 nautical miles to sail to the island of Nuku Hiva, in
the Marquesas archipelago, French Polynesia. After a few administrative
procedures, we will set off tomorrow and expect to arrive in 25-30 days. We
also operate a postal service, albeit on a very small scale. On the way here,
we delivered a small oil pump that the agent here had ordered from Panama. We
will bring a package to Polynesia for a sailor who had to leave the Galapagos
before the package from his parents arrived here. To be safe, we check the
contents before we set off 😊 If we had visited the island of
Floreana here in the Galapagos, we could have visited Post Office Bay founded
in 1793 where former whalers could leave letters and at the same time see if
there were letters addressed to the destination they were sailing to... This
unofficial post office is said to still be used today by sailors.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hela Galapagos-arkipelagen med
tillhörande vatten tillhör Ecuador. Området räknas som världens näst största
marina reservat med sina 133,000 km2 och är klassat som ett UNESCO
världsarv med ett unikt djur- och växtliv. Arkipelagen utgörs av 19 större
öar varav 4 är bebodda plus ytterligare ca 110 obebodda små holmar och klippor.
Öarna är alla vulkanöar och ligger i skärningspunkten mellan tre
kontinentalplattor. Öarna hör till den norra delen av Nazca-plattan, på gränsen
till den så kallade Cocosplattan i norr. Västerut gränsar den till den
sydamerikanska kontinentalplattan. Nazcaplattan driver långsamt i sydostlig
riktning mot den sydamerikanska kontinentalplattan med en hastighet av cirka 5
cm per år. Rörelsen gör att nya vulkaner uppstår västerut och det senaste
utbrottet på Galapagos skedde i mars 2024 på den västligaste ön Fernandina. Man
tror att öarna började bildas fem till tio miljoner år sedan och skillnaden i
ålder mellan öarna varierar, där de äldsta, östligaste öarna (San Cristóbal and
Española) är flera miljoner år äldre än de västliga (Isabela och Fernandina).
Öarna tros ha varit obebodda varit fram till att de första spanjorerna från
Panama kom dit på 1500-talet. När vi talade med invånare på Santa Cruz så var
det många som hänvisade till ”Pirate age”. Det visade sig vara en period på
1500 och 1600-talet då många piratbåtar, som gjorde plundringsräder på
fastlandet, kunde fly till ögruppen och bl a livnära sig på de stora
landsköldpaddorna som fanns på öarna. Namnet Galapagos betyder just sköldpadda.
</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">De första besökarna till öarna
förde tyvärr med sig andra djurarter som ställt till skada på öarna. Värst var
kanske råttorna som förökade sig snabbt och livnärde sig på de djur som redan fanns
på öarna; sköldpaddsungar, ödlor, små leguaner etc. Avsaknaden av däggdjur och
större rovdjur gjorde att de arter som levde på öarna blev lätta byten då de
var helt orädda. För att lösa råttproblemet infördes så småningom katter som
dock tyckte att ödlor, leguaner och orädda fåglar var enklare byten än de
skygga råttorna. På flera öar dog hela arter ut p g av detta. Getter och
lösspringande hundar har också utgjort stora problem. Hundar hålls nu endast
som sällskapsdjur och under kontroll. Förvildade katter finns fortfarande på
vissa öar. Vi såg själva en liten vildkatt jaga en ödla när vi promenerade till
en strand på Santa Cruz. På senare år har man kunnat få bort alla främmande
arter på vissa öar och flera återplanteringsprojekt pågår för att kunna
återinplantera många av de djur och växter som försvunnit. Dock vet man också
att flera arter tyvärr dött ut helt.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Under de 25 dagar vi stannat på
Galapagos så har vi hela tiden legat för ankar i Academy Bay vid staden Puerto
Ayora på huvudön Santa Cruz. Det är tillåtet att också segla till ytterligare
tre öar i arkipelagen men redan efter några dagars vistelse tyckte vi inte att
det var värt besväret med de tillstånd som vi hade behövt ordna med vår agent för
respektive ö. Vid varje ö måste man nämligen klarera in respektive ut och
betala en liten nationalparksavgift förutom de avgifter vi redan betalat för
att över huvud taget få segla hit. Dessutom var Puerto Ayora den hamn med bäst
faciliteter och där det enklast gick att få tanka båten och kunna klarera ut ur
Galapagos vid avfärd. Det är tydligt att man fokuserar på turister som kommer
via flyg till öarna och service till dem då de efterfrågar
övernattningsmöjligheter, mat, aktiviteter o s v. Fritidsbåtturister, som vi,
innebär mer jobb med kontroller av båt och besättning och mindre intäkter till
öarna.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">För att ta oss till och från ön
från båten kunde vi kalla på en taxibåt. Det kostade en dollar per person och
var väl värt den lilla avgiften. Man får använda den egna dingen om man vill
men i praktiken går det inte då det inte finns någonstans att lägga till på
land. Dessutom kunde sjölejonen snabbt ta gummibåten i besittning för sina
vilopauser när de inte fångar fisk i havet utanför.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">När vi steg iland på Santa Cruz
var det fantastiskt att se hur orädda alla djur var som vi stötte på. Sjölejon
och leguaner låg lugnt och solade mitt i stadsvimlet i Puerto Ayora och olika
fåglar satte sig helt orädda mitt bland besökare och putsade fjädrarna. Turismen
utgör mer än 80% av öarnas ekonomi och vi insåg snabbt att här, liksom på många
andra ställen vi besökt, gör man allt för att kunna tjäna några slantar av
besökarna. Taxibåtarna var bara ett exempel. I Puerto Ayora var gatorna fulla
av små resebyråer som erbjöd biljetter till snabbfärjor mellan öarna,
sightseeingturer på land liksom dyk- eller snorkelturer. Chaufförer hojtade
från sina vita pickup-taxis och frågade om vi ville ha skjuts. Det finns
väldigt få områden på öarna där man kan få ströva fritt i naturen eller snorkla
på egen hand. I princip alla ställen kräver att man har med sig en guide. Det
bestående intrycket var som att befinna sig på en gigantisk djurpark. Det måste
dock erkännas att de guidade turerna var välorganiserade och guiderna var
genomgående mycket kunniga. Vi såg också till att de fick fullt upp att göra,
så frågvisa som vi är…😊. Numera skall alla guider och parkvakter på
Galapagos vara certifierade och vidareutbildas kontinuerligt och dessutom vara
bosatta på någon av öarna. Alla vi mötte var också verkligen seriösa och måna
om att vi skulle få en bra upplevelse men också mycket tydliga med vilka regler
som gällde för att inte på något sätt skada djur eller växter. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Första besöket blev på Charles
Darwin Research Station, Här fick vi en kort genomgång av Darwins besök på
öarna 1835 och hur hans studier av livet Galapagos spelat en roll för hans
teori om det naturliga urvalet. Bl a kunde han med egna ögon se hur en finkar
med tiden hade anpassat sig på de olika öarna beroende på vilken föda de främst
kunde äta. Näbbarnas form hade ändrats och såg olika ut beroende på vilken ö
finkarna levde på. Det blev en lite andäktig stund för oss att få besöka
platser som fått sådan betydelse för vår förståelse av hur arter uppkommit på
jorden… På forskningscentret bedrivs även uppfödning av flera av de totalt 15
olika arter av stora landsköldpaddor som finns på de olika öarna. Man väntar
tills sköldpaddorna är 5 år gamla innan de släpps ut. Först då är
sköldpaddornas skal tillräckligt hårda för att de inte skall falla offer för bl
a råttor. 5 år kan verka mycket men å andra sidan blir landsköldpaddor runt 150
år gamla! Forskningscentret är väldigt aktivt bl a i olika utbildningsprojekt
för både invånare och besökare. Forskare från hela världen kommer hit för att studera
djur och växtliv på land och i havet. Många projekt är inriktade på bevarandet
av hotade arter och restaurering. Andra projekt syftar till att hitta mer
hållbara energialternativ på öarna och hur man skall angripa problemet med den
enorma mängd plastskräp som via havsströmmar flyter i land på öarna. Olovligt
fiske i haven utanför är ett annat stort problem man försöker adressera där
tyvärr Kina sticker ut som särskilt aktiva. Eftersom fiskebåtarna stänger av
sina transpondrar, AIS etc. blir de nästan omöjliga att spåra för de få
kustbevakningsfartyg som patrullerar hela reservatet. Vi har själva varit
förvånade när vi seglat nattetid och plötsligt sett ljus från fiskebåtar dyka
upp på bara någon sjömils avstånd som vi inte kunnat spåra via vår plotter
(AIS). När vi seglat förbi dem har de åter släckt lanternorna och på så sätt
gjort sig helt osynliga igen. Nu förstår vi vad det kan ha berott på…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi besökte även ett reservat för
landsköldpaddor och fick se dem strosa runt helt fritt. De betar gärna
tillsammans med de kor som hålls på ön och sködpaddorna är så stora att de
ibland forcerar igenom inhägnaderna till korna så även korna kommer ut – till
böndernas förtret. På vägen dit såg vi gigantiska landsköldpaddor korsa vägarna
i sakta mak, där trafiken fick stanna för att låta dem passera. Taxichauffören berättade
att det bara är parkvakter som får flytta sköldpaddor som ligger i vägen och
förare kan få böter motsvarande flera månadslöner och t o m fängelsestraff om de
skulle köra på en sköldpadda. Det gäller helt enkelt att ha tålamod…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi bokade också en snorkeltur
till den lilla ön Pinzón för att få se mer av livet under vattnet. Tyvärr var
sikten dålig men vi fick filmat en del. Faktum är att där Anastacia låg vimlade
det också av liv, både i och på vattnet. Revhajar, stora vattensköldpaddor och
leguaner simmade runt båten. En massa olika sjöfåglar, förutom de mer vanliga
fregattfåglarna och pelikanerna, besökte oss. Vi såg flera blåfotade sulor
(Blue Footed Booby) som blivit lite av Galapagos symbol. Sedan har vi ett
särskilt förhållande till en Galapagoshäger som ofta återkom och nästan bosatte
sig på båten. Vi kallade fågeln för Sture men hade egentligen ingen aning om
det var en hona eller hane. Sture verkade tycka båten var en perfekt plats att
stå på för att spana på fisk. Vi såg honom också fånga en fisk som visade sig
vara för stor för honom att svälja. Efter flera misslyckade försök släppte
Sture fisken i vår sittbrunn och spanade efter fler fiskar. Dagen efter låg
fisken kvar och hade antagligen förtvivlat sprattlat runt innan den slutligen
dog så vi fick sanera hela sittbrunnen. Christer kastade i fisken i havet och
Sture, som fortfarande satt på relingen, tittade surt på honom. Tydligen tyckte
han att det var synd att kasta maten som han lagt så mycket energi på att
fånga… Vi fick också snart besök av ett sjölejon som parkerade på Anastacias
lilla badplattform. Vi hade trott att plattformen var för liten för sjölejon
men det tyckte inte den här individen som låg kvar en hel natt. Tyvärr lämnade
sjölejonet ett rejält visitkort efter sig på badplattformen som luktade riktigt
illa och vi fick lägga en bra stund på att tvätta bort allt. Därefter placerade
vi två stora kulfendrar i akterna och slapp vidare besök.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Julen firades med julgröt gjord
på vanligt ris och annan improviserad mat till vårt lilla julbord på båten.
Såklart hade vi sett till att få med den obligatoriska italienska Panettonen,
inköpt i Panama, som vi avnjöt till kaffet. Nyår tillika Christers födelsedag
firades först med frukost på båten med gräddtårta och lite senare på dagen
serverades hemgjord födelsedags-pannacotta garnerad med rostade, kanderade
kokosflarn följd av presentutdelning och skönsång framförd av frun på båten. På
kvällen åt vi en god havsinspirerad middag på en trevlig restaurang där vi fick
ett bord på en balkong med utsikt över vattnet. Sedan firade vi ut det gamla
året med tusentals andra Galapagosbor från både Santa Cruz och andra öar + en
massa turister som flanerade på gatorna och köpte något från gatuförsäljarna
som trängdes längs huvudgatan i Puerto Ayora. Ett litet tivoli med en tågbana
för de minsta besökarna hade satts upp vid ena änden av gatan. Till vår
förvåning såg vi att personalen med unga, entusiastiska medhjälpare, hjälptes
åt att putta tåget med alla vagnarna runt på banan. Barnen åkte och skrek
förtjust och hade roligt och föräldrarna tittade på. Precis som på vilket annat
tivoli som helst fast detta drevs för hand utan motorer eller elektricitet 😊.
Staden hade också ordnat med underhållning under hela kvällen och natten på
torget, med artister från bl a Colombia. Vid tolvslaget så bröt jublet ut. Inga
fyrverkerier eller ljusshower men ett hejdundrande hålligång från scenen och jublande
människor överallt. Vid tvåtiden tog vi en båttaxi tillbaks till Anastacia och
hörde musiken från hamnen långt in på morgonen. När vi, den 2:e januari, åter
gick i land för att köpa lite grönsaker blev vi förvånade över att så få butiker
hade öppet. Nu fick vi reda på att den ecuadorianske presidenten, Daniel Noboa,
hade utlyst nationell helg från nyår till efter trettonhelgen! Vi fick vänta
med grönsakerna…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Enda smolket i glädjebägaren under
vårt besök var att vi sista veckan legat förkylda vilket gjort att vi fått
avboka en dyktur till ön Isla Seymour Norte, strax norr om Santa Cruz. Där hade
vi kunnat få se fler arter av bl a revhaj och hammarhaj! Vi hoppas dock kunna
få den chansen senare på vår seglats. Nu förbereder vi båten för den längsta
överfarten vi kommer att göra. Vi har lite drygt 3000 sjömil att segla till ön
Nuku Hiva, i ögruppen Marquesas, franska Polynesien. Efter lite administrativa
procedurer, ger vi oss iväg imorgon och räknar med att vara framme om 25-30
dagar. Vi agerar dessutom postservice om än i mycket liten skala. På vägen hit levererade
vi en liten oljepump som agenten här hade beställt från Panama. Till Polynesien
kommer vi att ta med ett paket till en seglare som hann lämna Galapagos innan
paketet från hans föräldrar hann fram hit. För säkerhets skull kontrollerar vi
innehållet innan vi ger oss iväg 😊 Hade vi besökt ön Floreana här på Galapagos
hade vi kunnat besöka Post Office Bay, grundad 1793, där tidigare valfångare
kunde lämna brev och samtidigt se om det finns brev som var adresserade till
den destination de skulle segla till… Detta inofficiella postkontor sägs användas
än idag av sjöfarare.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>A heartwarming Christmas carol performed to us by youngsters from the Molas club. Molas Club promotes ecological and biodiversity conservation projects for young people in Galapagos . The performance was part of a competition and we really hope these four won the competition! ❤️</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7sN4DUsKg5M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Animal encounters at Puerto Ayora and the fish market in Santa Cruz</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098?1736821098" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950?1736820950" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610?1736821610" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u>Giant Tortoises</u></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447?1736821447" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447?1736821447" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal">At the beach. Santa Cruz<iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WLQlL9-BFUc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal">Under water videos. Galapagos islands<iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uFhLVkZGBDc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal"><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kWNwCqRPqzc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>At our boat</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447?1736821447" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nrCMGxZyFp4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p>
</div>Tue, 14 Jan 2025 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/january-2025/galapagos
/blog/january-2025/galapagosFrom Panama to GalapagosMalin<p class="MsoNormal">You are
never so close to death on a sailboat as when you have your pants pulled down
over your knees! We both experienced this fact several times during the sail to
the Galapagos. It was our first real long-distance sailing after the Atlantic
crossing and we had kind of forgotten how rough it can be at sea and the most
critical moments are when visiting the toilet and when you have to take your
sailing clothes off or on…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It may not
seem like a big problem, but if you are a little tired and inattentive, you can
easily go straight across the floor if you don't look up when Anastacia goes
over a wave. Now we both managed fine but there were a few times it could have
gone wrong. This and other similar topics were things we liked to discuss
during the sail. Then you know the quality of our discussions 😊. Except of course, when Christer shared his
thoughts on whether time is just a representation of the expansion of the
universe. At the Big Bang, time began… If you travel at the speed of light with
the expansion or against it, does time change for the traveller? Without the
Internet at sea, we had to guess as best we could on our own… Time may be
affected by the speed of expansion depending on where you are, but was there
nothing before the Big Bang? Not even time?</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In this way
we passed the time by in the 10 days it took to sail the 900 nautical miles to
the Galapagos. As the crow flies, it is shorter, but to avoid headwinds, we
needed to take a more southerly direction along the coast of Colombia and
Ecuador before we could turn further west, towards the islands. We had light
winds the whole way and sailed on a tack. The first day, the mainsail's
trailing edge broke against the boom, the so-called clew. It had chafed against
the boom without us noticing. Now we could only sail with a reef up, which was
OK but gave Anastacia a lower speed and sometimes we had to use the engine as
support. We had rain and thunder at one point where we temporarily changed
direction but otherwise it was a fairly uneventful but quite bumpy sail as the
waves came from slightly different directions. A few seabirds followed along
and hitched a ride on the boat when they got too tired.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Christer surprised me as Lucia (Swedish traditional celebration) when I was about to get off my night shift on December 13th. He showed up with a handmade Lucia crown decorated with a little Santa Claus and holding a candle in his hand serving me cofee. The next day he surprised me again! He caught a two-kilo bluefin tuna which he then prepared and served. It was enough for two dinners. What a wonderful man! ❤️</p><p class="MsoNormal">The next time there was some excitement on the boat was when we were close to passing the
equator. We make sure to write down our position every few hours and plot the
distance we have sailed on a paper chart. This way you can manually calculate
your position (dead reckoning) if necessary, for example if the power on the
boat were to go out. We soon saw that we were approaching latitude 00 degrees.
This set Christer off and he wanted to immortalize the moment. This should be
celebrated! After studying the chart carefully, he went over to the digital
plotter and saw a blue line that matched the chart's line for the equator. When
there were a few minutes left, we loaded up a bottle of Prosecco bought for
the purpose and two plastic champagne glasses were found. Now we would first
offer a glass to Poseidon and then the moment we crossed the equator would be
immortalized with a selfie. Said and done. The sea god was appeased with a
glass and we toasted solemnly and took a picture when we passed the blue line.
Shouldn't we see our position? I asked. No need! Christer said confidently. He
had a rock-solid grasp of the situation! It wasn't until a long time later that
he realized his mistake. We were still about 80 nautical miles north of the
equator (!?) and that blue line on the plotter was something completely
different from an equator line. A little disappointed, we realized that there was
almost a day left until we could start writing an S after the longitude
measurements. The next morning, we could see on the plotter how we slowly
passed the 00 line but now the Prosecco was gone and the mood was pretty bad
for both of us so a screenshot on the plotter had to suffice to immortalize the
event…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The last
few nautical miles to the main island of Santa Cruz we had good wind but risked
arriving in the dark so we had to reef and sail really slowly so as not to
arrive before the morning light appeared 😊.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The same
day we anchored at Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz a delegation from various
authorities came together with our agent and checked the boat inside and out to
make sure we hadn't brought anything illegal in terms of animals or plants +
they asked us about waste management etc. on board. We were approved on all
counts and received our tourist visas and were welcomed to stay at the
Galapagos nature reserve. We took down the yellow Q flag and hoisted the
Ecuadorian and Galapagos courtesy flags on Anastacia. Now a time of exploring
the islands and the privilege of following in Darwin's footsteps awaits!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Man är aldrig så nära döden på
en segelbåt som när man har byxorna nerdragna över knäna! Detta faktum fick vi
båda erfara flera gånger under seglatsen till Galapagos. Det var vår första
riktiga långfärdssegling efter Atlantöverfarten och vi hade liksom glömt hur
det kan kränga till på havet och de mest kritiska stunderna är vid toalettbesök
och vid passbyten när seglarkläderna skall av eller på…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Inget stort problem kan tyckas
men är man lite trött och ouppmärksam så kan man lätt fara iväg tvärs över
golvet om man inte ser upp när Anastacia far över en våg. Nu klarade vi oss
båda fint men det var några gånger det kunde gått illa. Detta och andra
liknande ämnen var sådant vi gärna diskuterade under seglatsen. Då vet ni nivån
på diskussionerna 😊. Förutom förstås när Christer delgav sina funderingar
över om tid bara är en representation över universums expansion. Vid Big Bang
så började s a s tiden… Om man färdas med ljusets hastighet med expansionen
eller mot den, förändras tiden för den som färdas? Utan Internet till sjöss fick
vi spåna bäst vi kunde på egen hand… Tiden kanske påverkas av expansionens
hastighet beroende på var man befinner sig, men fanns inget före Big Bang? Inte
ens tid?</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Så fördrev vi tiden de knappa 10
dagar det tog att segla de runt 900 sjömilen till Galapagos. Fågelvägen är det
kortare men för att undvika motvind, behövde vi ta en sydligare riktning längs
Colombias och Ecuadors kust innan vi kunde vika av mer västerut, mot öarna. Vi
hade svag vind hela vägen och seglade på en kryssbog. Första dygnet brast
tampen till storseglets bakkant mot bommen, det s k bomuthalet. Det hade skavt
mot bommen utan att vi märkt det. Nu kunde vi bara segla med ett rev uppe
vilket var OK men gav Anastacia lägre fart och ibland fick vi använda motorn som
stöd. Vi fick regn och åska vid något tillfälle där vi tillfälligt byta
riktning men annars en blev det en ganska händelsefattig men rätt skumpig seglats
då vågorna kom från lite olika riktningar. Några sjöfåglar följde med och
liftade på båten när de blev för trötta.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Christer överraskade som lucia när jag skulle gå av mitt nattpass den 13:e december. Han dök upp med egenhändigt tillverkad luciakrona prydd med en liten tomte och med ljus i handen och serverade nybryggt kaffe. Dagen därpå överraskade han igen! Han fiskade upp en tvåkilos blåfenad tonfisk som han sedan tillredde och bjöd på. Den räckte till två middagar. Vilken underbar man! ❤️</p><p class="MsoNormal">Nästa gång det blev lite liv på båten var när vi var nära att passera ekvatorn. Vi ser till att skriva upp vår
position med några timmars mellanrum och plotta ut på ett papperssjökort den
sträcka vi seglat. På så sätt kan man manuellt räkna ut sin position (död
räkning) om det skulle behövas, t ex om strömmen på båten skulle slås ut. Vi
såg snart att vi närmade oss latituden 00 grader. Det satte fart på Christer
som ville föreviga ögonblicket. Detta skall firas! Efter att ha studerat sjökortet
noga gick han över till den digitala plottern och fick syn på en blå linje som
stämde väl överens med sjökortets linje för ekvatorn. När det var några minuter
kvar så laddade vi med, en till ändamålet inköpt, flaska Prosecco och två champagneglas
i plast letades fram. Nu skulle vi först skänka ett glas till Poseidon och
sedan skulle tillfället vi passerade ekvatorn förevigas med en selfie. Sagt och
gjort. Havsguden blidkades med ett glas och vi skålade högtidligt och tog en
bild när vi passerade den blå linjen. Skall vi inte se vår position? Frågade
jag. Behövs inte! Sa Christer självsäkert. Han hade stenkoll på läget! Inte
förrän en lång stund senare insåg han sitt misstag. Vi var fortfarande ca 80
distansminuter norr om ekvatorn (!?) och det där blå strecket på plottern var något
helt annat än en ekvatorlinje. Lite snopet konstaterade vi att det nästan var
ett dygn kvar tills vi kunde börja skriva ett S efter longitudmätningarna.
Nästa morgon kunde vi se på plottern hur vi sakta passerade 00-linjen men nu
var Proseccon slut och humöret ganska uselt på oss båda så det fick duga med en
skärmdump på plottern för att föreviga händelsen…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">De sista sjömilen till huvudön
Santa Cruz hade vi bra vind men riskerade att komma fram i mörker så vi fick
reva och segla riktigt sakta för att inte komma före morgonljuset visade sig 😊.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Samma dag som vi ankrade vid Puerto
Ayora, Santa Cruz kom en delegation från olika myndigheter tillsammans med vår
agent och kontrollerade båten in- och utvändigt så att vi inte fått med oss
något otillåtet i djur- eller växtväg + att de förhörde oss om avfallshantering
m m ombord. Vi fick godkänt på alla punkter och fick våra turistvisum och välkomnades
att vistas på Galapagos naturreservat. Vi tog ner den gula Q-flaggan och
hissade Ecuadors och Galapagos gästflaggor på Anastacia. Nu väntar en tid av
utforskade av öarna och privilegiet att få gå i Darwins fotspår!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Royal tern and juvenile Blue-footed Boobies hitchhiking</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322?1734887322" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322?1734887322" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>A loving husband´s contributions to a happy marriage</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382?1734887382" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382?1734887382" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Crossing the eequatorial line - or not?</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1980" data-original-height="2640" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427?1734887427" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427" loading="lazy" data-original-width="800" data-original-height="480" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427?1734887427" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>We made it!</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510?1734887510" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>
</div>Sat, 21 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/december-2024/from-panama-to-galapagos
/blog/december-2024/from-panama-to-galapagosCrossing the Panama CanalMalin<p class="MsoNormal">One of the
requirements to be allowed to pass through the Panama Canal is that you must
have four linehandlers on board in addition to the captain. There is therefore
a WhatsApp group that mediates contact between captains who are looking for
linehandlers and sailors who will pass the canal themselves and want to gain
some experience before their own crossing. The only requirement apart from food
and accommodation during the canal passage is that you compensate their journey
back to the port they started from. Through that group and our sailing friends
Jodi and Magnus, we had three volunteers ready for Anastacia's crossing.
Unfortunately, our third volunteer got other, more urgent obligations to take care
off, in the days before departure. Via the WhatsApp group we quickly got a new
contact, Charles, who turned out to have the boat on the same dock as our
friends. We were lucky! Together with me (Malin) we were now full crew.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The day
before the canal crossing, we were able to collect long, sturdy lines and
fenders that we rented from our agent. Eight ball-fenders and four ropes barely
made it into our dinghy. Add to that a Malin sitting on top and it was a
miracle that the whole construction didn't fall over. Christer drove the dinghy
veery slowly back to Anastacia, without losing any of the precious cargo 😊. The agent also informed us that we were
booked on a two-day canal crossing starting at 3pm.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">On the boat
we prepared food in advance that would be enough for the two days for us and
the rest of the crew and took out water bottles that we had bought in advance.
Everything according to the careful instructions we received from the agent 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We lowered
the Bimini to give more room to handle the lock lines aft and covered the solar
panels with pads to protect them from the lines that the lock crew would throw
from the lock edge and that we are expected to catch. The next morning, we
called up the canal station (Cristobal Signal Station) who confirmed our
position and advised that our canal Advisor would show up at 17:30. We then
agreed with our linehandlers to pick them up a little later than planned. Once
we picked them up there was still a long wait and not until after 18:30 did a
pilot boat appear to drop off Advisor Carlos, on Anastacia. The delay was due
to another boat that was also due to lock at the same time as us waiting for a
crew. Unfortunately, it was now so late in the day that it had gotten dark so
we didn't see much of the surroundings or the canal. However, the locks were
beautifully lit. Carlos instructed Christer on how to navigate and told us that
we would be tied to the outer side with another sailboat in the middle and a powerboat
at the far end towards the canal wall. Once at the first lock, discussions
arose between the pilots on each boat as they did not all agree on the
formation. Carlos was right in the end though. We drove slowly towards the lock
and then the boats were lashed together. As Anastacia was towards the middle of
the lock, we never had to handle any lines from shore, but only had to keep up
with the other boats. The worst were for the powerboat that had the lock wall
on the starboard side and two sailboats on the port side.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">When you
lock up, you always let the smaller boats lie behind the larger ships in the
lock. On the way down, you do the opposite. In this way, the smaller boats are
not affected so much by the turbulence in the water that occurs when the ships
run their engines, combined with how the water rushes when it is let in and out
of the lock. Consequently, a large freighter lay first in the lock and after it
we lay in our "package" of boats. At the first lock, we also took the
opportunity to eat dinner that we had prepared before. All three locks up to
Lake Gatún ran without problems. On the boat, we in the crew kept an eye on the
lines towards the other boat and Christer drove. Carlos supervised it all and
gave directions. He was constantly in contact with the other pilots and via his
mobile phone he could follow how all the boats were positioned in the canal.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Once in
Lake Gatún we were soon able to lay by a giant mooring buoy and a pilot boat
appeared and took Carlos back to shore. The rest of us were really tired and
agreed to go to bed in order to get up at half past seven when the next Advisor
would appear at half past eight in the morning. When we, the next morning, had
just managed to prepare breakfast for the crew, the Advisor Hector suddenly
appeared, almost an hour early! Sitting in peace and eating your breakfast was
simply something to forget. Now, it was full speed again and the food had to be
consumed as best we could on the way... At this point several hours of driving
through the lake followed until we reached the last three locks that would carry
us down towards the Pacific side. This time with freighters behind us and in
the last two locks we lay with the powerboat between the two sailboats. Now we
finally got to try handling ropes against the lock wall. Canal workers threw
thin pilot lines with a monkey fist knot at the end which we would catch and
lash to the lines we had on the boat. However, once the pilot lines got going,
it turned out that we had been unnecessarily careful with covering our solar
panels. The staff threw them so far that they ended up on the boat next to us
and the crew there was quick to throw the lines back to us. Then the canal crew
pulled back the pilot line and secured the boat's line to the lock bollards. In
this way, we could manage the lines completely from the boat. We had our lines
against one lock wall and the other sailboat against the other wall. Now the powerboat
only had to maintain a steady course as the water poured into the lock. The sluicing
then ran completely undramatically and even now there was some waiting for all
the boats before each lock, so we took the opportunity to have lunch when there
was a break. After the last lock we concluded that these two days had been
warmer and sunnier than in a long time and that it would probably have been
better to have the Bimini up all the time. Now we were crazy hot, sunburned and
tired, but happy that everything went well even though a lot had not gone as we
had planned 😊.</p><p class="MsoNormal">After the last lock, at Balboa
Harbor, we waved off all our guests and steered Anastacia towards the La
Playita marina on the Pacific side, grateful to have had such a capable and
pleasant crew with us. Jodi and Magnus wanted to join in order to gain some
experience before taking their boat through the canal themselves. Charles had
lined up as a linehandler before and already had some experience but thought it
was fun to be involved once more. He will also cross the canal himself with his
boat in a week or so. Many thanks to you! Many thanks also to our experienced Advisors
who were both calm, educational and took no risks.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now we are
in the marina and will soon clear out of Panama. We need to arrange some
documents and certificates to then be able to set off on a week-long sailing
trip to the Galapagos. We have reactivated our satellite phone which will
update Anastacia's position on the front page of the blog every hour. The
family is notified and… Pacific Ocean, here we come! 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <br></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <br></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Ett av kraven för att få passera Panamakanalen är att man
måste ha fyra ”linehandlers” ombord förutom kaptenen. Det finns därför en
WhatsApp-grupp som förmedlar kontakt mellan kaptener som söker linehandlers och
seglare som själva skall passera kanalen och vill få lite erfarenhet innan den
egna överfarten. Enda kravet förutom mat och husrum under kanalpassagen är att
man ersätter deras resa tillbaka till den hamn man startade från. Via den
gruppen och våra seglarvänner Jodi och Magnus hade vi tre volontärer redo för
Anastacias överfart. Tyvärr fick vår tredje frivillige förhinder, dagarna innan
avfärd. Via WhatsApp-gruppen fick vi snabbt en ny kontakt, Charles, som visade
sig ha båten på samma brygga som våra vänner. Där hade vi tur! Tillsammans med
mig (Malin) var vi nu fulltaliga.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Dagen innan kanalöverfarten kunde vi hämta långa, rejäla
linor och fendrar som vi hyrt av vår agent. Åtta kulfendrar och fyra linor fick,
med nöd och näppe, plats i vår dinge. Lägg därtill en Malin sittandes uppepå så
var det ett under att inte hela ekipaget välte. Christer körde dingen vääldigt
långsamt tillbaka till Anastacia, utan att tappa något av den dyrbara lasten 😊.
Av agenten fick vi också besked om att vi var bokade på en tvådagars kanalöverfart
med start kl 15. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">På båten lagade vi mat i förväg som skulle räcka för de två
dagarna för oss och övrig besättning och tog fram vattenflaskor som vi köpt i
förväg. Allt enligt de noggranna instruktioner vi fått av agenten 😊
</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi monterade ner biminin för att ge mer plats att kunna
hantera slusslinorna i aktern och täckte solpanelerna med dynor för att skydda
dem för de linor som slusspersonalen kastar från slusskanten och som vi
förväntas fånga upp. Morgonen därpå ropade vi upp kanalstationen (Cristobal
Signal Station) som bekräftade vår position och meddelade att vår
kanalrådgivare/lots skulle dyka upp vid 17:30. Vi kom då överens med våra linehandlers
att hämta upp dem lite senare än planerat. När vi väl hämtat dem följde ändå en
lång väntan och inte förrän efter 18:30 dök en lotsbåt upp som släppte av kanalrådgivaren/lotsen
Carlos, på Anastacia. Förseningen berodde på att en annan båt som också skulle
slussa samtidigt med oss väntade på besättning. Tyvärr var det nu så sent på
dagen att det hunnit mörkna så vi såg inte så mycket av omgivningarna eller
kanalen. Slussarna var dock vackert upplysta. Carlos instruerade Christer om
hur han skulle köra och berättade att vi skulle ligga ytterst i bredd med en
annan segelbåt i mitten och en motorbåt längst mot kanalväggen. Väl framme vd
första slussen uppstod diskussioner mellan lotsarna på respektive båt då alla
inte var överens om formationen. Carlos fick dock rätt till slut. Vi körde
sakta mot slussen och sedan surrades båtarna intill varandra. Eftersom
Anastacia låg mot slussens mitt behövde vi aldrig hantera några linor från land
utan behövde bara hänga med de andra båtarna. Värst var de för motorbåten som
hade slussväggen på styrbord sida och två segelbåtar om babord.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">När man slussar uppåt så låter man alltid de mindre båtarna ligga
efter de större fartygen i slussen, På vägen ner gör man tvärtom. På så sätt
påverkas inte de mindre båtarna så mycket av den turbulens i vattnet som uppstår
när fartygen kör sina motorer, i kombination med hur vattnet forsar när det
släpps in respektive ut, ur slussen. Ett stort fraktfartyg lade sig
följaktligen främst i slussen och efter den låg vi i vårt ”paket” av båtar. Vid
första slussen passade vi också på att äta kvällsmat som vi förberett innan. Alla
tre slussningarna upp till Gatúnsjön löpte utan problem. På båten höll vi i
besättningen koll på linorna mot den andra båten och Christer körde. Carlos
övervakade det hela och gav anvisningar. Han höll hela tiden kontakt med de
andra lotsarna och via mobilen kunde han följa hur alla båtar låg till i
kanalen. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Väl i Gatúnsjön kunde vi snart lägga oss vid en gigantisk
förtöjningsboj och en lotsbåt dök upp och tog med sig Carlos tillbaka till
land. Vi övriga var rejäl trötta och kom överens om att lägga oss för att stå
upp vid halv sjutiden då nästa lots skulle dyka upp vid halv åtta på morgonen.
När vi, nästa morgon precis hunnit ställa fram frukosten för besättningen så
dyker plötsligt lotsen Hector upp, nästan en timme för tidigt! Att sitta i lugn
och ro och äta sin frukost var bara att glömma, Nu var det full fart igen och
maten fick intas efter bästa förmåga under färd… Nu följde flera timmars
körande genom sjön till de sista tre slussarna som skulle slussa oss neråt mot
Stilla havssidan. Den här gången med fraktfartyg bakom oss och i de sista två
slussarna låg vi med motorbåten mellan de två segelbåtarna. Nu fick vi äntligen
prova på att hantera linor mot slussväggen. Kanalanställda kastade tunna pilotlinor
med en s k apnäve (knop) i änden som vi skulle fånga upp och surra fast i
linorna vi hade på båten. När väl pilotlinorna kom farande visade det sig dock
att vi varit onödigt försiktiga med att täcka våra solpaneler. Personalen
kastade dem så långt att de hamnade på båten intill och det blev fart på
besättningen där att kasta tillbaks linorna till oss. Sedan drog
kanalpersonalen tillbaka pilotlinan och gjorde fast båtens lina vid slussens
pållare. På så sätt kunde vi sköta linorna helt från båten. Vi hade våra linor
mot ena slussväggen och den andra segelbåten mot den andra väggen. Nu behövde
motorbåten bara hålla en stadig kurs när vattnet strömmade in i slussen. Slussningarna
löpte sedan helt odramatiskt och även nu blev det en del väntande på att alla
båtar skulle ligga rätt inför varje slussning, så vi passade på att äta lunch
när det blev en paus. Efter sista slussen konstaterade vi att dessa två dagar
varit varmare än på länge och att det nog hade varit bättre att ha biminin uppe
hela tiden. Nu var vi tokvarma, solbrända och trötta men glada att allt gått
bra trots att mycket inte hade gått som vi hade tänkt 😊.</p><p class="MsoNormal"> Efter sista slussen, vid Balboa hamn, vinkade vi av alla våra gäster och styrde
Anastacia mot marinan La Playita på Stilla havssidan, tacksamma över att ha
haft så duktig och trevlig besättning med oss. Jodi och Magnus ville vara med
för att få lite erfarenhet innan de själva skall ta sin båt genom kanalen.
Charles hade ställt upp som linehandler förut och hade redan en del erfarenhet
men tyckte att det var kul att få vara med en gång till. Han skall också själv
ta sig över kanalen med sin båt om någon vecka. Tusen tack till er! Stort tack
också till våra erfarna lotsar som båda var lugna, pedagogiska och inte tog
några risker.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Nu ligger vi i hamn och skall strax klarera ut från Panama.
Vi behöver ordna med några dokument och intyg för att sedan kunna ge oss av på
en dryg veckas segling till Galapagos. Vi har aktiverat vår satellittelefon
igen som kommer att uppdatera Anastacias position på bloggens förstasida varje
timme. Familjen är underrättad och… Stilla havet, här kommer vi! 😊</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2048" data-original-height="1536" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863?1733858863" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <br><em>Photo credit to Magnus Andersson</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><br></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598?1733859598" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598?1733859598" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241208_084750.jpg?1733859598" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084750.jpg?1733859598 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480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_093707.jpg?1733859598 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_093707.jpg?1733859598?1733859598" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241208_133807.jpg?1733859598" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_133807.jpg?1733859598 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480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813?1733859813" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>Tue, 10 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/december-2024/crossing-the-panama-canal
/blog/december-2024/crossing-the-panama-canalPanamarina and Panama CityMalin<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Panamarina is a really nice marina run by a
French couple. There are good opportunities here to fix your boat on land with
do-it-yourself workshops and tools for hire. If you want help, there are
several craftsmen you can hire. However, our budget did not allow for anything
other than doing the work ourselves. The marina also has a small but
well-stocked ships chandlery with reasonable prices where you can write down
what you take and pay at the end of your stay. Very smart by the owners and
handy for us sailors who don't plan everything from the start but suddenly
realize that a brush, scraper or epoxy may be needed. The restaurant serves
good food and drinks at reasonable sailor’s prices. The marina is located by a
mangrove swamp and well protected from the wind, so all boat owners are
tyrannized by the colossal number of gnats that run rampant there! We had our
fair share, even inside the boat as they managed to get through our mosquito
nets.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you want to get to the nearest town, Linton,
you just have to take the dinghy through the so-called tunnel of love, a small
shortcut through the mangrove swamp. Then you have to zig-zag your way through
the underwater reef to the village. In Linton there is another marina and many
boats moored outside. Unfortunately, there are also an unusually large number
of sailboat wrecks that have been lying here for various reasons. The
authorities have difficulty regulating the dumping and scrapping of boats and
the wrecks are now there in the bay, for various reasons. Some owners have
died, others have been shipwrecked and complications with the insurance mean
that the boats cannot be moved. A few more are dumped as the owners do not want
to pay for salvage and scrapping. Sad to see but unfortunately not unusual ☹ A little further out in the bay are also some
strange creations. They are floating, ultra-modern houses, so-called Seapods
with all possible smart technology and use of the "internet of
things", almost self-sufficient in electricity and water and... immensely expensive.
Cool to look at though 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After two days and a cheerful Halloween
celebration in Panamarina with decorations, costumes and not least live music
with a drum-playing owner, we set off to the modern capital of Panama City for
a short tour and a visit to the Miraflores Visitor's Center. Miraflores is
located right at the canal locks to the Pacific Ocean. Here we learned more
about the canal, which already in the 16th century germinated as an idea with
the Spaniards who wanted to be able to easily get to the western part of South
America. Only at the end of the 19th century did the French make a first, less
successful attempt to build the canal. They had intended to dig the canal by an
existing river but the project had to be abandoned as it proved too difficult
to carry out. Slaves had been used for the construction and thousands succumbed
to mosquito-borne diseases and large landslides. The United States later
offered Panama independence from Colombia in exchange for canal rights in the
country. They managed to overcome the diseases that ravaged the canal could be
completed in 1914. Instead of just digging through the canal stretch, they had
chosen to also dam high-lying areas and create artificial lakes and thus be
able to complete the water passage more easily. Despite this, even then, many
people died due to accidents and in total it is estimated that 27,500 workers
succumbed, during the long period when the canal was being built. On December
31, 1999, the United States handed the canal over to Panama.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The highest point of the canal is 26 m above
sea level and there are a total of 6 locks to pass through on the 77 km long
stretch. As a curiosity, it can be mentioned that the locks were built with 8 m
long and 910 kg heavy screws that were manufactured in Trollhättan in Sweden by
Trollhättan's Mekaniska Verkstad (later NOHAB). The large lathe machine that was used
to manufacture the screws is said to have been called the "Panamas lathe " and was located in building No. 60 in the Nohab area. During our
visit to the Miraflores Locks, we got to see a large catamaran pass through the
locks followed by a giant freighter that made the 60-foot catamaran look like a
dinghy in comparison.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After a two-week stay in Sweden, we were able
to continue our work with scraping, washing and hull-painting Anastacia in the
boatyard at the marina. With the help of the crew of our boat neighbor, we
installed the wind rudder and have sealed all the small damages the boat
received during the storm in Colombia. Anchor box, anchor and chain got a
"makeover" and since the spray markings we made on the chain every 10
meters were completely worn away, we now try instead to mark the lengths with
pieces of red cotton tape (to avoid plastic). It will be interesting to see how
long it lasts. We will get a little Christmas feeling as a bonus, every time we
anchor 😊. Bimini, sprayhood and lazybag (bag
for the mainsail) are cleaned and fixed but the fabric is starting to become
brittle from all the sunlight. Where zippers have come loose, we have sewn on
reinforcements and we hope that it will last until Polynesia or hopefully even
longer... Speaking of sunlight, we also noticed that it, in combination with
the heat, it causes plastic to shrink. My (Malin's) newly purchased black
flip-flops had shrunk at least two sizes (!) during the time they were lying on
deck in the sunlight, when we were away from the boat. New ones had to be
bought in. The old ones will hopefully suit some younger kid... Digital as well
as physical charts for the Pacific and Indian Oceans have been acquired.
Christer also mounted an extra GPS antenna which he plugged in to our plotter to get better signal with
more satellites and thus better positioning precision.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">During our time working on the boat, we made
many friends at the marina and would often meet in the restaurant for a beer or
two and discuss the various boat projects going on. French, Spanish and English
was heard everywhere! Among other things, a complete renovation of a
German-built catamaran is underway with a group of enthusiastic young people
from different countries who work with the boat in various ways and realize
the dream of being able to go out to sea one day. The renovation has been going
on for a year and they are (only) halfway there but there is nothing wrong with
their enthusiasm and the young captain aka the owner, is constantly chasing new
money to be able to keep the project alive.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">On November 29th we were able to launch
Anastacia and after refueling in Linton we motored to the mouth of the Panama
Canal outside Shelter Bay where we are now at anchor. We had an extra pleasant
first Advent (pre-Christmas period) surprise when we opened the secret gift we
had received from Christer's brother Lennart, and his wife Tinne. Many thanks!
🙏 We celebrated with some Advent
coffee in the evening together with our friends Jodi and Magnus from sailboat Lulu.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We are booked for canal-transfer on Saturday
7th December and are doing our best to prepare ourselves for the crossing.
Lulu's crew will be linehandlers on Anastacia together with me and another sailor
who also volunteered. We have received information about when and where ropes
and fenders are to be picked up, as well as how the procedure is done with the Advisor
from the canal authority who will accompany us and pilot Christer, the Captain, through
the canal transit. Either we will get to go through the entire canal in one
day, which means starting at four in the morning and ending late that evening
or, we will get an afternoon time with two half-day passages with an overnight
stay in the artificial Gatún lake. We are now preparing the boat for overnight
guests and try to figure out what meals we will serve our guests and crew. But,
more about the Canal in the next blog post!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Panamarina är en riktigt trevlig
marina som drivs av ett franskt par. Här finns bra möjligheter för att fixa med
sin båt på land med gör-det-själv-verkstäder och verktyg att hyra. Vill man ha
hjälp finns flera hantverkare man kan anlita. Vår budget tillät dock inte något
annat än att göra jobbet själva. Marinan har också en liten men välsorterad
båttillbehörsbutik med rimliga priser där man kan skriva upp det man hämtar och
betala i slutet av vistelsen. Väldigt smart av ägarna och behändigt för oss seglare
som inte planerar allt från början utan plötsligt kommer på att en pensel, skrapa
eller epoxy kan behövas. Restaurangen serverar god mat och dryck till rimliga
seglarpriser. Marinan ligger vid ett mangroveträsk och väl skyddat för vinden
så alla båtägare tyranniseras av den kolossala mängd knott som härjar där! Vi
fick vår beskärda del, även inne i båten då de lyckades ta sig igenom våra
myggnät. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vill man ta sig till närmaste
ort, Linton, är det bara att ta dingen genom kärlekstunneln, en liten genväg
genom mangroveträsket. Sedan får man sick-sacka sig genom undervattensreven fram
till byn. I Linton finns ytterligare en marina och många båtar som ligger för
ankar utanför. Tyvärr även ovanligt många segelbåtsvrak som av olika
anledningar blivit liggande här. Myndigheterna har svårt att reglera dumpningen
och skrotningen av båtar och vraken ligger nu där i viken, av olika
anledningar. Vissa ägare har dött, andra har förlist och krångel med
försäkringen gör att båtarna inte kan hämtas. Ytterligare några ligger dumpade för
att ägarna inte längre vill kännas vid dem då de inte vill betala för bärgning
och skrotning. Tråkigt att se men tyvärr inte ovanligt ☹. Lite
längre ut i viken ligger också några märkliga skapelser. Det är flytande,
supermoderna hus, s.k. Seapods med all tänkbar smart teknik och nyttjande av
”sakernas internet”, nästintill självförsörjande på el och vatten och…
snordyra. Dock coola att titta på 😊</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efter två dagar och ett glatt
halloweenfirande i Panamarina med pynt, utklädnader och inte minst livemusik
med trumspelande ägare, gav vi oss iväg till den moderna huvudstaden Panama
City för en kort rundtur samt besök på Miraflores Visitor's Center. Miraflores
ligger precis vid kanalslussarna mot Stilla havet. Här fick vi lära oss mer om kanalen
som redan på 1500-talet grodde som en idé hos spanjorerna som ville kunna ta
sig till västra delen av Sydamerika på ett enkelt sätt. Först i slutet av
1800-talet gjorde fransmännen ett första, mindre lyckat försök att bygga
kanalen. De hade föresatt sig att gräva kanalen vid en befintlig flod men
projektet fick överges då det visade sig för svårt att genomföra. Slavar hade
använts för bygget och tusentals dukade under av myggburna sjukdomar och stora
jordskred. USA erbjöd senare Panama självständighet från Colombia i utbyte mot
att få kanalrättigheterna i landet. Sjukdomarna som härjat lyckades man få bukt
med och kanalen kunde färdigställas 1914. Istället för att bara gräva sig
igenom kanalsträckan hade man valt att också dämma upp höglänta områden och
skapa konstgjorda sjöar och på så sätt enklare kunna färdigställa vattenpassagen.
Trots detta dog även då många människor på grund av olyckor och totalt räknar
man med att 27 500 arbetare dukade under, under den långa period
kanalbyggandet pågick. Den 31 december 1999 överlämnade USA kanalen till
Panama.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Kanalens högsta punkt ligger 26
m över havsnivån och det är totalt 6 slussar att passera på den 77 km långa
sträckan. Som kuriosa kan nämnas att slussarna bl a byggdes med 8 m långa och
910 kg tunga skruvar som tillverkades i Trollhättan av Trollhättans Mekaniska
Verkstad (senare NOHAB). Den stora svarven som användes för att tillverka
skruvarna lär ha kallats ”Panamasvarven” och fanns i byggnad 60 på
Nohabområdet.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Under vårt besök vid
Mirafloresslusarna fick vi se en stor katamaran passera i slussarna följd av
ett gigantiskt fraktfartyg som fick den 60 fot långa katamaranen att se ut som
en jolle i jämförelse.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efter två veckors vistelse i
Sverige kunde vi fortsätta vårt arbete med att skrapa, tvätta och bottenmåla
Anastacia på båtgården i marinan. Vi fick med båtgrannens hjälp monterat
vindrodret och har tätat alla små skador som båten fick under stormen i
Colombia. Ankarbox, ankare och kätting fick sig en ”makeover” och eftersom de
spraymarkeringar vi gjort på kättingen var 10:e meter nötts bort helt, provar
vi nu istället att markera längderna med bitar av röda bomullsband (för att
undvika plast). Det blir spännande att se hur länge det håller. Lite julkänsla
kommer vi att få på köpet, varje gång vi ankrar 😊. Bimini, sparayhood och lazybag (säck till
storseglet) är rengjorda och fixade men tyget börjar bli skört av allt solljus.
Där dragkedjor lossnat har vi sytt på förstärkningar och vi hoppas att det
skall hålla fram till Polynesien eller förhoppningsvis ännu längre… Apropå
solljus så märkte vi också att den, i kombination med värmen, får plast att
krympa. Mina (Malins) nyinköpta svarta Flip-flops hade blivit minst två
storlekar mindre (!) under tiden de legat på däck i solljuset, när vi varit
borta från båten. Nya fick köpas in. De gamla passar förhoppningsvis någon
yngre förmåga… Sjökort för Stilla havet och Indiska oceanen har införskaffats i
digital och fysisk form. Christer monterade en extra GPS-antenn som han
kopplade in för att få bättre mottagning med fler satelliter och därmed bättre
precision för positioneringen för vår plotter.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Under tiden vi arbetade med
båten fick vi många vänner på marinan och träffades ofta i restaurangen för en
öl eller två och diskuterade de olika båtprojekten som pågick. Franskan, spanskan
och engelskan flödade! Bl a pågår en helrenovering av en tyskbyggd katamaran
med ett gäng entusiastiska ungdomar från olika länder som på olika sätt arbetar
med båten och när drömmen att en vacker dag kunna ge sig ut på havet.
Renoveringen har pågått i ett år och de har (bara) kommit halvvägs men
entusiasmen är det inget fel på och den unge kaptenen tillika ägaren jagar hela
tiden nya pengar för att kunna hålla projektet vid liv.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Den 29:e november kunde vi
sjösätta Anastacia och efter tankning i Linton körde vi henne till
Panamakanalens mynning utanför Shelter Bay där vi nu ligger för ankar. Extra trevlig
första adventsöverraskning fick vi, när vi öppnade den hemliga present vi fått
med oss från Christers bror, Lennart med fru Tinne. Tusen tack! 🙏Vi
firade med lite adventsfika på kvällen tillsammans våra båtvänner Jodi och
Magnus från båten Lulu.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Vi är bokade för kanalöverfart
lördagen den 7:e december och håller som bäst på att förbereda oss inför
överfarten. Lulu’s besättning ställer upp som ”linehandlers” på Anastacia
tillsammans med mig och en annan seglare som också ställer upp. Vi har fått
besked om när och var linor och fendrar skall hämtas upp liksom hur
kanalmyndigheten gör med den kanalanställde rådgivare (Advisor) som skall följa
med oss och lotsa kapen Christer genom kanalfärden. Antingen kommer vi att få
gå igenom hela kanalen på en dag, vilket innebär start vid fyratiden på
morgonen och slut sent samma kväll eller, så får vi en eftermiddagstid med två
halvdagars passage med övernattning i den konstgjorda Gatúnsjön. Vi förbereder
båten för övernattande gäster och besättning och funderar som bäst på vilken
mat som vi skall servera. Men, mer om kanalen i nästa blogginlägg!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Panamarina, Halloween and boatwork</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341?1733251341" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_212735.jpg?1733251341" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_212735.jpg?1733251341 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href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 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1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213904.jpg?1733251341 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213904.jpg?1733251341 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213904.jpg?1733251341 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213904.jpg?1733251341?1733251341" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4S1vJ-O8Vpg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><br></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Linton bay</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 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srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925?1733254925" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925?1733254925" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Panama City and Miraflores locks</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149?1733255149" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149?1733255149" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953?1733260953" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002?1733261002" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033?1733261033" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128?1733261128" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129?1733261129" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Screws for the Panama Canal locks at NOHAB in 1912. 8m long and 910kg each, photo from Innovatum's image archive.</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar Innovatums bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2048" data-original-height="1661" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531?1733242531" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p>
</div>Mon, 02 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000
/blog/december-2024/panamarina-and-panama-city
/blog/december-2024/panamarina-and-panama-cityMarina Turtle Cay, PanamaMalin<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The sailing to Panama was probably the most
uneventful sailing we have had in a long time. The wind was so weak that we
only made 3 knots. So that it wouldn't take too long, we had to motorsail the
two days it took to get to the San Blas or Guna Yala archipelago, as the
archipelago is now called. Not even a thunderstorm came our way, despite the
area being known for its storms at this time of year. With such a calm and
uneventful sailing, it was all the more fun that we had a fantastically clear
sky. One morning, in the east just before sunrise, we caught sight of what we
first thought was an airplane with a trail of icy smoke. Then we realized it
was a comet as it wasn't moving forward. We had no idea that there would be any
comet visible this fall, but once we consulted the eminent mobile app Star Walk
2, it turned out that it was probably the comet with the exciting name C/2023
A3 (Tsuchinshan-ATLAS) that we had seen. Cool, we thought, and felt very
unique. Now, in retrospect, we understand that half the world probably also saw
the comet and quite a few in Scandinavia also had an incredibly beautiful
autumn with lots of northern lights, so we were definitely not particularly
unique in terms of celestial phenomena, but the feeling was in any case genuine
in the moment 😁</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In San Blas the plan was to just get our
passports stamped by the migration authority at the tiny airport in Porvenir
(today Gaigirgordub). The population on the islands almost all belong to the
indigenous Guna people and it is their name on the islands that is now the
official one. In the sailing community, however, the old names live on. The
islands turned out to be pure paradise. A mistake of ours not to give these
islands more time! Now we had a berth booked in Turtle Cay on the mainland and
it was too late to change plans. On the way to Porvenir we passed several large
reefs. Later we learned that these reefs until just a few years ago were
islands. The warmer climate with melting ice makes the sea level rise so much
that the islands are slowly washed away, one by one…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">When we arrived at Porvenir we were immediately
greeted by two canoes full of women in colorful clothes. They belonged to the
Guna people and wanted to sell some tourist-friendly handicrafts. After a lot
of nagging, we finally bought a colorful bracelet. We would have preferred to
buy their beautiful fabrics but that was not the kind of craft they sold.
However, they wanted us to also buy one of their two flags that we could have
had as a courtesy flag on the boat. Now, we were only going to stay one night
so there was no flag purchased, but we were surprised that one flag had an
inverted swastika as a symbol. That flag had been created in 1925 as a symbol
of the indigenous people's revolution against Spanish rule. The swastika is an
ancient symbol for both the Guna people and many other cultures and there are
many different interpretations of what it represents depending on the culture
and the direction of the four arms (clockwise or counterclockwise). We have
read that it symbolizes everything from the sun and the winds, to representing
the octopus that created the earth and all living things, according to a
legend... In the case of the Guna people, it symbolizes a medicinal plant which
is said to give increased knowledge and which seems to grow towards the four
cardinal points. Unfortunately, the revolutionary flag soon became associated
with the Nazi symbol and attempts were therefore made to modify it. Another new
flag was produced in 2010 with 8 stars and two arms holding a bow and arrow.
The newer flag is used in official contexts and is hoisted together with the
Panamanian flag. Both flags are used and we saw both flags flying on the
flagpoles at the airport where we were to check in. If you are interested, we
can recommend a good page in Spanish (Google translate works well 😊) about the Guna people, the San Blas
Archipelago and the history of the flags at: <a href="https://www.gunayala.org.pa/">https://www.gunayala.org.pa/</a> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After a night at anchor outside Porvenir, we
steered the boat towards Turtle Cay marina where we had booked a berth.
Although Turtle Cay is quite isolated, far from any citiy, the marina is
basically full of boats. Most boats do not have residents on board as many take
the opportunity to leave the boat here during the rainy and thunder season. The
marina is well protected, but we see the nocturnal thunderstorms passing by here
and there. Now we have been here for two weeks and got to know other sailors
who also have their boats here. We try to meet once a week and have dinner at
the restaurant close to the marina. There’s always lots of boat-fix talk and
you can ask and give each other advice about everything possible. Just like in
most places we sailed to, there is also an online group here, which you can
participate in via WhatsApp, where you give each other advice and help. There can
be posted questions such as; In which part of the bay is it safest to anchor?
Where can you buy fruit and vegetables? Does anyone have a type X tool I can
borrow? Does anyone want to take over my old dinghy? Whose are these socks I
found left behind in the marina laundry room today? Etc. 😉</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Turtle Cay is located by a nature reserve and
apart from sea turtles that sometimes visit the beaches here, there is a very
varied nature with lots of different animals and plants right next to the
marina. We hear the howler monkeys calling daily and, with the help of Shawn on
the boat Miet who has been here a long time and knows the area, we were finally
able to see two tamarin monkeys jumping between the trees close to the marina.
We have started walking longer tours on the trails in the area and hope to
catch a glimpse of more animals. Here, for example, there will be sloths and
anteaters, and we have already seen lots of different butterflies and birds,
many of which we recognize from Colombia. On the boat we are sometimes visited
by small gecko lizards and between the boats at night we can sometimes see the
fish-catching bats that we recognize from the Caribbean islands. The restaurant
owner here had to take care of a little sloth who lost his mother. A very cute toddler
that she raises and that we got to take pictures of. Otherwise, it has been
difficult to take pictures of the animals. They move way too fast. Much easier
with the plants 😊.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">One of the boats at our dock unfortunately had
an accident last week that could have ended very badly. The couple living on
the boat wanted to charge the lithium battery for their AC they have in the
boat. They had put the battery on charge overnight and at 11 o'clock in the
evening they woke up to a bang. The battery had exploded and caught fire. The
whole boat quickly filled with smoke but they managed to get out. Together with
the closest boat neighbors, they were finally able to put out the fire with the
help of several fire extinguishers, but only after the battery burned out.
Luckily, there was no wind so the flames that shot up from the boat never moved
towards the neighboring boats but the devastation in the sailboat was very
great even though the hull is still intact and the engine seems to be working.
It is still unclear whether the boat can be saved or whether it must be
scrapped. The couple managed with minor burns and some lung problems, which
are, however, temporary. We were all horrified by the incident and have tried
to help them in various ways as most of their possessions have burned up or
been smoke damaged. They have also shared their experiences regarding the fire
itself and what you can think about if the accident were to happen. Luckily the
fire didn't spread to the gas cylinders or fuel tanks! What we, for our part,
were concerned about was that we never woke up from the tumult that arose on
the dock. One conclusion that was drawn was that it is important to make sure
that everyone on the dock is alerted if something like this were to happen.
Anastacia is two boats away from the stricken sailboat and normally we should
have heard something. We (especially Christer) usually wake up at the slightest
deviation from "normal" sounds, but no! We had had two fans humming
in the cabinet where we sleep which probably drowned out all other noise that
night. Now we have arranged the fans a little differently so that we wake up
more easily if something unusual happens. We have now also looked over the fire
extinguishers in the boat and a few other things we got tips about that might
be good to have documented vis-a-visthe insurance company should the accident
occur. We've stopped charging our phones and other gadgets overnight and
disconnect the shore power when we don't need it.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We will remain here in Turtle Cay until the end
of October, then unfortunately we will have to change harbor to get the boat
ashore as the marina here does not have a working lift and it does not look
like it will be repaired in time - despite we had booked it long time ago. We
have been tipped off by some boating neighbors about a small boat yard further
west, closer to the canal, called Panamarina. There they have confirmed that
they can haul the boat up so we can scrape and paint the hull. There we will
also be able to repair the scratches and small holes in the stern that arose at
the marina in Colombia after the storm there. The wind rudder will be
reassembled with the new parts that we received + other maintenance that can
only be done when the boat is on “the hard”. Between the 4th and the 15th of
November, we will visit the family in Sweden and greet as many friends as we
can. We look forward to that! Who knows. If it's a nice evening, maybe we'll
also see some northern lights! 😊 Until we leave Turtle Cay, we
dedicate ourselves to renewing our food supplies and cleaning inside Anastacia so
she will be sparkling clean and beautiful, ready to face the Galapagos in
December!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Seglingen till Panama var
troligen den mest händelselösa seglingen vi haft på länge. Vinden var så svag
att vi bara gjorde 3 knops fart. För att det inte skulle ta alldeles för lång
tid fick vi motorsegla de två dygn det tog att ta sig till ögruppen San Blas
eller Guna Yala som arkipelagen numera heter. Inte ens åskväder kom i vår väg,
trots att området är känt för sina oväder den här tiden på året. Med en så lugn
och händelsefattig seglats var det desto roligare att v fick en fantastiskt
klar himmel. En morgon, i öster precis innan soluppgången, fick vi syn på vad
vi först trodde var ett flygplan med en isröksvans efter sig. Sedan insåg vi
att det rörde sig om en komet eftersom det inte rörde sig framåt. Vi hade ingen
aning om att det skulle finnas någon komet synlig i höst men när vi väl fick
konsulterat den eminenta mobilappen Star Walk 2 visade det sig att det troligen
var kometen med det upphetsande namnet C/2023 A3 (Tsuchinshan-ATLAS) som vi
sett. Häftigt, tyckte vi, och kände oss malligt unika. Nu, i efterhand förstår
vi att halva världen säkert också sett kometen och rätt många i Skandinavien
dessutom har haft en otroligt vacker höst med massor av norrsken så särskilt
unika vad gäller himlafenomen var vi definitivt inte, men känslan var i alla
fall äkta i stunden 😁</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I San Blas var planen att bara
få våra pass stämplade av migrationsmyndigheten på den pyttelilla flygplatsen i
Porvenir (idag Gaigirgordub). Befolkningen på öarna tillhör nästan alla
ursprungsfolket Guna och det är deras benämning på öarna som nu är de
officiella. I seglarkretsar lever dock de gamla namnen kvar. Öarna visade sig
vara ett rent paradis. Ett misstag av oss att inte ge dessa öar mer tid! Nu
hade vi en hamnplats bokad i Turtle Cay på fastlandet och det var för sent att
ändra planerna. På vägen till Porvenir passerade vi flera stora rev. Senare
fick vi veta att dessa rev till bara för några år sedan var öar. Det varmare
klimatet med smältande isar gör att havsnivån höjer sig så pass mycket så att
öarna sakta sköljs bort, en efter en…</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">När vi kom fram till Porvenir blev
vi genast hälsade av två kanoter fulla med kvinnor i färgglada kläder. De
tillhörde Gunafolket och ville sälja lite turistanpassat hantverk. Efter mycket
tjat köpte vi till slut ett färggrant armband. Vi hade gärna hellre köpt deras vackra
tyger men det var inte den sortens hantverk de sålde. Däremot ville de att vi också
skulle köpa någon av deras två flaggor som vi hade kunnat ha som gästflagga på
båten. Nu skulle vi ju bara stanna en natt så det blev inget flaggköp men vi
var förvånade över att den ena flaggan hade en omvänd svastika som symbol. Den
flaggan hade tagits fram 1925 som en symbol för ursprungsbefolkningens
revolution mot den spanska överhögheten. Svastikan är en urgammal symbol för både
Gunafolket och många andra kulturer och det finns många olika tolkningar kring
vad den föreställer beroende på kultur och riktning på de fyra armarna (medsols
eller motsols). Vi har läst att den symboliserar allt från solen och vindarna, till
att representera bläckfisken som skapade jorden och allt levande, enligt en
annan legend... I Gunafolkets fall lär det symbolisera en medicinalväxt som sägs
ge ökad kunskap och som ser ut att växa mot de fyra väderstrecken. Tyvärr blev
revolutionsflaggan snart förknippad med nazisternas symbol och försök gjordes därför
att modifiera den. Ytterligare ny flagga togs fram 2010 med 8 stjärnor samt två
armar hållandes en pilbåge och en pil. Den nyare flaggan används i officiella
sammanhang och hissas tillsammans med den panamanska flaggan. Båda flaggorna
används och vi såg båda flaggorna vaja på flaggstängerna vid flygplatsen där vi
skulle klarera in. Är man intresserad kan vi tipsa om en bra sida på spanska
(Google translate funkar bra 😊) om Gunafolket, San Blasarkipelagen och
flaggornas historia på: <a href="https://www.gunayala.org.pa/">https://www.gunayala.org.pa/</a></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Efter en natt på ankar utanför
Porvenir styrde vi kosan mot Turtle Cay marina där vi bokat plats. Även om
Turtle Cay ligger ensligt, långt från större orter, så är marinan i princip
full med båtar. De flesta båtar har inga boende ombord då många passar på att lämna
båten här under regn- och åsksäsongen. Marinan ligger väl skyddad men vi ser de
nattliga åskvädren dra förbi på håll. Nu har vi legat här i två veckor och
bekantat oss med andra seglare som också har sina båtar här. Vi försöker
träffas en gång i veckan och äta middag på restaurangen intill. Det blir mycket
båtfix-snack och man frågar och ger varandra råd om allt möjligt. Precis som på
de flesta platser vi seglat till finns det även här en onlinegrupp, som man kan
delta i via WhatsApp, där man tipsar varandra och hjälps åt. Det ställs frågor
som; I vilken del av viken är det säkrast att ankra? Var kan man köpa frukt och
grönt? Har någon ett verktyg av typen X jag kan få låna? Är det någon som vill
ta över min gamla gummibåt? Vems är dessa strumpor jag hittade kvarglömda i
marinans tvättstuga idag? Etc. 😉</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Turtle Cay ligger vid ett
naturreservat och förutom havssköldpaddor som ibland besöker stränderna här så
finns det en väldigt varierad natur med massor av olika djur och växter
alldeles intill marinan. Vi hör dagligen vrålaporna ropa och, med hjälp av
Shawn på båten Miet som varit här länge och känner till området, kunde vi till
slut få se två tamarinapor hoppa mellan träden på marinaområdet. Vi har börjat
promenera längre turer på stigarna i området och hoppas kunna få en skymt av
fler djur. Här skall det till exempel finnas sengångare och myrslokar och vi
har redan fått se massor av olika fjärilar och fåglar, varav många vi känner
igen från Colombia. På båten får vi ibland besök av små geckoödlor och mellan
båtarna kan vi nattetid ibland se de fiskfångande fladdermössen som vi känner
igen från de karibiska öarna. Restaurangägaren här fick ta hand om en liten
sengångare som mist sin mamma. En jättesöt unge som hon föder upp och som vi
fick ta kort på. I övrigt har det varit svårt att ta bilder på djuren. De rör
sig alldeles för snabbt. Mycket enklare med växterna 😊.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">En av båtarna vid vår brygga råkade
tyvärr ut för en olycka förra veckan som kunde slutat mycket illa. Paret som
bor på båten skulle ladda litiumbatteriet till sin AC som de har i båten. De
hade satt batteriet på laddning över natten och vid 11-tiden på kvällen vaknade
de av en smäll. Batteriet hade exploderat och fattat eld. Hela båten rökfylldes
snabbt men de lyckades ta sig ut. Tillsammans med närmaste båtgrannarna fick de,
med hjälp av flera brandsläckare, till slut släckt elden men först efter att
batteriet brunnit ut. Som tur var, var det helt vindstilla så lågorna som slog
upp från båten rörde sig aldrig mot grannbåtarna men förödelsen i segelbåten blev
mycket stor även om skrovet fortfarande är intakt och motorn verkar fungera. Det
är fortfarande oklart om båten går att rädda eller om den måste skrotas. Paret
klarade sig med lindrigare brännsår och lite lungproblem som dock är
övergående. Vi blev alla förskräckta över händelsen och har försökt hjälpa dem
på olika sätt då det mesta de ägde har brunnit upp eller blivit rökskadat. De
har också delat med sig av sina erfarenheter kring själva branden och vad man
kan tänka på om olyckan skulle vara framme. Tur i oturen att elden inte spred
sig till gasflaskorna eller bränsletankarna! Vad vi, för egen del, blev bekymrade
över, var att vi aldrig vaknade av det tumult som uppstod på bryggan. En
slutsats som drogs var att det är viktigt att se till att alla på bryggan larmas
om något liknande skulle hända. Anastacia ligger två båtar från den
olycksdrabbade segelbåten och i vanliga fall borde vi ha hört något. Vi
(särskilt Christer) brukar vakna av minsta avvikelse från ”normala” ljud, men
icke! Vi hade haft två fläktar brummandes i ruffen där vi sover som antagligen överröstade
allt annat ljud den natten. Nu har vi arrangerat fläktarna lite annorlunda så
vi lättare vaknar ifall något ovanligt händer. Vi har nu också sett över
brandsläckarna i båten och lite annat vi fått tips om som kan vara bra att ha
dokumenterat gentemot försäkringsbolag om olyckan skulle vara framme. Vi har
slutat ladda våra telefoner och andra prylar under natten och kopplar ur
landströmmen när vi inte behöver den.</p>
</div>
<p>Vi kommer att ligga kvar här i Turtle Cay fram till slutet
av oktober, sedan måste vi tyvärr byta hamn för att få upp båten på land då
marinan här inte har en fungerande lyft och den ser inte heller ut att bli
reparerad i tid -trots att vi hade bokat den sedan länge. Av några båtgrannar
har vi fått tips på en liten hamn längre västerut, närmare kanalen, som heter Panamarina. Där har de bekräftat att de kan lyfta upp båten och ställa den på land så
vi kan skrapa och bottenmåla den. Där kommer vi också kunna laga de skav och
små hål i aktern som uppstod på marinan i Colombia efter stormen där. Vindrodret
kommer att monteras upp igen med de nya delarna som vi fått levererat + lite
ordna med annat underhåll som bara kan göras när båten ligger på land. Mellan
den 4:e och den 15:e november kommer vi att besöka familjen i Sverige och hälsa
på så många vänner vi hinner. Det ser vi fram emot! Vem vet. Blir det någon fin
kväll kanske vi också får se lite norrsken! 😊 Fram tills vi lämnar Turtle Cay ägnar vi oss åt att
förnya våra matförråd och rengöra Anastacia invändigt så hon blir skinande ren
och glittrande vacker, färdig att möta Galapagos i december!</p><p><br></p><p><em>San Blas (Guna Yala) and Porvenir
(Gaigirgordub)</em></p><p> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528?1729461528" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490px" height="240px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jOoojOm_KTs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528?1729461528" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528?1729461528" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p>Turtle Cay marina and surroundings</p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PmlUs1rh_F8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490px" height="240px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jO_Tjh8i0FQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DyzCXi6SQ7I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241017_201336.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241017_201336.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241017_201336.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241017_201336.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241017_201336.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241017_201336.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p>Sun, 20 Oct 2024 00:00:00 +0000
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