S/Y Anastacia Circumnavigation We are a Swedish couple in their mid 50s who decided to live out our dream. This is our story. daily 1 https://sy-anastacia.skipperblogs.com Thu, 24 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000 Cook Islands and Aitutaki Malin <div> <p class="MsoNormal">Aitutaki belongs to the southern group of the Cook Islands and is an “almost” atoll with a large coral reef around the entire island and several small islands inside the surrounding lagoon. We had good winds but also high waves when we sailed to the island, so it was a rough four days sailing for us. Since we had sailed a little faster than expected, we sailed the last few nautical miles with only a small headsail in order to arrive after sunrise. To get to the island, you have to pass through a narrow channel on the northwest side and this has to be done in daylight. Once inside the small harbor at the larger town of Arutanga, we noticed that we were the only visiting boat. The harbor is under construction and actually consists of a large basin that is being excavated. The excavator was in full swing and the water was completely brown from all the mud that had been suspended. We anchored in the basin and found that the depth was around 2 meters in some places and were getting stuck in the mud as Anastacia’s draft is 2.05 m. After being checked by authorities from the biosecurity, health, immigration and customs, we were able to take down the yellow Q flag and raise the Cook Islands courtesy flag. We were welcome ashore!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">A little later that day, the catamaran Valentin appeared with a German crew and anchored behind us in the basin. Jürgen and Heiki were a nice couple and we quickly got along well with them. We decided to move Anastacia and instead anchor on the outside of the atoll. Now the catamaran had the entire basin at its disposal 😊. Outside the reef, the water was much clearer and we had enough protection from the waves, although the flat island itself does not provide any protection from the wind. We anchored on a shelf in the coral reef and floated the chain so as not to damage the corals or get caught with the chain. The weather forecast warned of winds of up to 30 knots during the Easter weekend so we wanted to make sure that Anastacia was in a good position. Later, the Canadian boat Timmies-Run appeared and had the same problem as we had in the shallows in the basin so that boat also had to anchor the outside reef. We had many nice sundowners on our boats...</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The Cook Islands archipelago is named after Captain James Cook who visited the islands in the 18th century. Since the beginning of the 20th century, the islands have belonged to New Zealand and thus also to Great Britain but now have greater autonomy. Previously, different Polynesian dialects were spoken on the different islands but it is mainly the older generation that master the indigenous languages because it was banned for several years in schools in favor of English. Nowadays, the rules have been relaxed and a Maori dialect is now an official language on the islands along with English. Aitutaki is the second largest of the Cook Islands after the main island of Rarotonga and is an incredibly beautiful atoll that is often compared to Bora Bora. The islanders themselves say that Aitutaki is paradise on earth. About 1200 people live here and most are Christians belonging to one of the several different faith communities represented on the island. All with their own church or meeting place.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">To see around, we were recommended to rent scooters. We went to the nearest rental company and booked two. I happily thought how nice it would be to drive my own scooter because otherwise we always just used to rent a scooter that Christer used to drive and where I sat behind. My experience can certainly be accommodated in a few hours of moped driving about 10 years ago, but this looked so easy! Everyone droves scooters on the island. Old and young! After a brief introduction to the few and simple controls of the means of transport, Christer drove off a bit further down the road. We had agreed that he would drive ahead of me as he was more used to left-hand traffic. I tried to follow but it was coming to an end with horror when I crossed the road. Acceleration, keeping my balance and finding the right brakes was just too much. Then I had to turn too - preferably BEFORE the ditch appeared... halfway into the ditch I managed to stop my vehicle. A lady in the car right behind me asked compassionately if everything was okay. She had seen me swaying away and was genuinely concerned. I thanked her for her concern and said I was fine. Then I realized that I was actually a traffic hazard and that there would probably be no more scootering for me. My self-confidence had taken a hit and I muttered something to Christer who quickly understood the situation and without any major fuss gave my scooter back and offered me a seat on his instead. Then he looked really pleased when I sat behind him, and exclaimed "This actually feels much safer. Now I know where I have you!" I muttered something like “Yes, yes. I can’t do everything” and so we didn’t discuss the matter anymore… For the next two days we explored the small island, found beautiful viewpoints and drove on all the back roads we could find. We sometimes stopped for coffee and lunch and had a great time 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Easter weekend is celebrated in a traditional way on the island, as the Christian holiday it really is, in memory of Jesus’ death and resurrection. No Easter eggs, Easter bunnies, sweets or easter witches. No feasting and lavish meals. Here you go to your church and attend the services throughout the weekend and spend time with your family. Together with our German friends, we therefore chose to go to the island's largest and oldest church on Easter Day. The church was built almost 200 years ago and is simple but beautiful. Most of the visitors from the local population were brightly dressed and the ladies wore large, bright straw hats with flowers in them. The service was a pleasant experience with many different speakers and a, not too long, sermon in the name of joy. Throughout the ceremony, there were many breaks for beautiful choir singing. Some messages to the local population with information about upcoming events were also given, as well as some welcoming words to us tourists who had gathered in the church.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After the strong wind during the Easter weekend, the wind has almost completely died down and we are waiting for the next weather window to be able to set off. We have passed the time with some snorkeling around the boat and have slowly started preparing for departure for Niue together with the Canadian boat together with the Canadian boat that has some problems with the electronics on board and is happy to join us as they are heading to the same destination.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br></p> </div> <p class="MsoNormal">Aitutaki tillhör den södra ögruppen av Cooköarna och är en ”nästan”atoll med ett stort korallrev runt hela ön och flera småöar innanför den omgivande lagunen. Vi hade god vind men också höga vågor när vi seglade till ön så det blev fyra skumpiga dygn för oss. Eftersom vi seglat lite snabbare än beräknat seglade vi de sista sjömilen med bara lite försegel för att kunna komma fram efter soluppgång. För at ta sig in till ön är man nämligen tvungen att passera genom ett smalt sund på nordvästra sidan och det måste göras i dagsljus. Väl inne i den lilla hamnen vid den större orten Arutanga konstaterade vi att vi var den enda besökande båten. Hamnen är under uppbyggnad och består egentligen av en stor bassäng som håller på att grävas ut. Grävmaskinen var i full gång och vattnet var alldeles brunt av all uppslammad lera. Vi ankrade i bassängen och konstaterade att djupet var runt 2 meter på vissa sällen och höll på att fastna i lerbotten eftersom Anastacia sticker ner 2,05 m. Efter att ha blivit kontrollerade av myndighetspersoner från miljö, hälsa, immigration och tull kunde vi ta ner den gula Q-flaggan och hissa Cooköarnas gästflagga. Vi var välkomna i land! </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Lite senare samma dag dök katamaranen Valentin upp med tysk besättning och lade sig bakom oss i bassängen. Jürgen och Heiki var ett trevligt par som vi snabbt fick bra kontakt med. Vi bestämde att byta plats på Anatsacia och istället ankra på utsidan av atollen. Nu hade katamaranen hela bassängen till sitt förfogande 😊 Utanför revet var vattnet mycket klarare och vi hade tillräckligt skydd från vågorna även om den flacka ön i sig inte ger något skydd för vinden. Vi ankrade på en avsats i korallrevet och bojade kättingen för att inte skada korallerna eller fastna med kättingen. Väderprognosen varnade för vindar uppåt 30 knop under påskhelgen så i vi ville vara säkra på att Anastracia låg bra. Senare dök den kanadensiska båten Timmies-Run upp och fick samma problem som vi haft i den grunda i bassängen så även den båten fick lägga sig på utsidan revet. Vi hade många trevliga "sundowners" på våra respektive båtar...</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Ögruppen Cooköarna är döpt efter kapten James Cook som besökte öarna på 1700-talet. Öarna tillhör sedan början av 1900-talet Nya Zeeland och därmed också Storbritannien men har numera en större autonomi. Tidigare talades olika polynesiska dialekter på de olika öarna men det är främst den äldre generationen som behärskar ursprungsspråken eftersom det förbjöds under flera år i skolorna till förmån för engelskan.  Numera har man lättat på reglerna och en maoridialekt utgör nu officiellt språk på öarna tillsammans med engelskan. Aitutaki är den näst största av Cooköarna efter huvudön Rarotonga och är en otroligt vacker atoll som ofta jämförs med Bora Bora. Öborna själva menar att Aitutaki är paradiset på jorden. Här bor ca 1200 människor och de flesta är kristna tillhörande någon av de flera olika trossamfund som finns representerade på ön. Alla med sin egen kyrka eller samlingslokal.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">För att se oss omkring blev vi rekommenderade att hyra skotrar. Vi gick till närmaste uthyrare och bokade två stycken. Glad i hågen tänkte jag hur skönt det skulle bli att köra egen skoter eftersom vi annars alltid bara brukade hyra en skoter som Christer brukade köra och där jag satt bakom. Min erfarenhet kan visserligen inrymmas i några timmars mopedkörning för en sisådär 10 år sedan men det här såg ju så enkelt ut! Alla körde ju skoter på ön. Gammal som ung! Efter en kort introduktion av fortskaffningsmedlens få och enkla reglage körde Christer iväg en bit bort på vägen. Vi hade kommit överens om att han skulle köra före mig då han hade större vana vid vänstertrafik. Jag försökte köra efter men det höll på att ta en ände med förskräckelse när jag korsade vägen. Att gasa, hålla balansen och hitta rätt i bromsarna blev bara för mycket. Sedan skulle jag ju svänga också - helst INNAN vägdiket dök upp… halvvägs ut i diket fick jag stopp på mitt åkdon. En dam i bilen strax efter mig frågade medlidsamt om allt stod rätt till. Hon hade sett mig vingla iväg och var uppriktigt bekymrad. Jag tackade för omtänksamheten och sa att jag mådde prima. Sedan insåg jag att jag egentligen utgjorde en trafikfara och att det nog inte skulle bli mer skoterkörande för min del. Mitt självförtroende hade fått sig en törn och jag fick mumlat något till Christer som snabbt förstod situationen och utan några större åthävor lämnade tillbaka min skoter och erbjöd mig plats på hans istället. Sedan såg han riktigt nöjd ut, när jag satt mig bakom honom, och utbrast ”Det här känns faktiskt mycket säkrare. Nu vet jag var jag har dig!” Jag muttrade något om att ”Ja, ja. Jag kan inte klara allt” och så diskuterade vi inte den saken mer… Kommande två dagar utforskade vi den lilla ön, hittade vackra utsiktsplatser och körde på alla småvägar vi kunde hitta. Vi stannade ibland för fika och lunch och hade det hur mysigt som helst 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Påskhelgen firas på traditionellt sätt på ön, som den kristna högtiden det egentligen är, till minne av Jesus död och uppståndelse. Inga påskägg, påskharar, godis eller påskkärringar. Inget kalasande och överdådiga måltider. Här går man till sin kyrka och deltar i gudstjänsterna under hela helgen och umgås med familjen. Tillsammans med våra tyska vänner valde vi därför att gå till öns största och äldsta kyrka på påskdagen. Kyrkan byggdes för snart 200 år sedan och är enkel men vacker. De flesta besökarna ur lokalbefolkningen var ljust klädda och damerna bar stora ljusa stråhattar med blommor i. Gudstjänsten blev en trevlig erfarenhet med många olika talare och en, inte alltför lång, predikan i glädjens tecken. Under hela ceremonin var det många avbrott för vacker körsång. Några meddelanden till lokalbefolkningen med information om kommande händelser hanns också med liksom några välkomnande ord till oss turister som bänkat oss i kyrkan. </p> <p>Efter den starka blåsten under påskhelgen har vinden nästan mojnat helt och vi väntar på nästa väderfönster för att kunna ge oss iväg. Vi har fördrivit tiden med lite snorkling runt båten och så smått börjat förbereda oss för avfärd mot Niue tillsammans med den kanadensiska båten som har lite problem med elektroniken ombord och gärna hänger med oss då de skall till samma destination.</p><p><br></p><p><em>Aitutaki</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_104313.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250416_110806.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_100248.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1351" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_100248.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_100248.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_100248.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_100248.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_130859.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1351" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_130859.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_130859.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_130859.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_130859.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140930.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1351" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140930.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140930.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140930.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140930.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140939.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1351" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140939.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140939.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140939.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_140939.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144125.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250417_144151.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Arutanga CICC Church</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112057.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1351" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/20250420_112150.jpg?1745545526?1745545526" width="450" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Sundowner with crew from Valentin, Anastacia and Timmies-Run. Photo by Heike Wagener</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Aitutaki/IMG-20250420-WA0006.jpg?1745546883?1745546883" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p> Thu, 24 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/april-2025/cook-islands-and-aitutaki /blog/april-2025/cook-islands-and-aitutaki French Polynesia and the Society Islands Malin <p class="MsoNormal">Tahiti is the largest of the 14 islands in the archipelago of the Society Islands and is also home to Papeete, the capital of all of French Polynesia. Tahiti, like many of the islands in the archipelago, is surrounded by lagoons protected by large reefs all around the islands and act as effective breakwaters. A bit like a combination of island and atoll!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We arrived in Tahiti on March 10, two days after we left Fakarava. Apart from a few strong squalls, the sailing did not hold any surprises. None of the marinas in Tahiti had responded to our requests for a buoy or a berth, so we decided to anchor instead. As we approached the mouth of the lagoon at Papeete, we were met by a small group of dolphins playing in the tidal waves, but they soon left us. We called out “Port control” on the radio to announce our arrival and ask for permission to pass the inlet. Since there is an airport next to the city, we also needed to get the go-ahead to cross the airport runway to reach the anchorage area. After a few minutes, we got permission to sail to the anchorage. There we then lay and prepared the boat for our arriving guests.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One evening we thought the moon looked strange with a cloud that stubbornly covered a small part of it. Finally, we understood that it was not a cloud and after a little googling we realized that we had just been honored to witness the beginning of a total lunar eclipse! With a blood moon and all! We just enjoyed watching the whole process with a completely clear sky. We got a little sore in the neck afterwards, but it was worth it! 😁</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On March 15, our son Isac finally arrived with his friend Joel and it was a happy reunion. The guys wanted to see the island of Tahiti before we sailed the short distance to the neighboring island of Moorea. We rented a car and drove around the island and visited one waterfall after another. We also visited an old cult site, marae, with a typical rectangular, large and high stone altar. There were also tikis (anthropomorphic statues of God-like persons) at the site. In addition to serving as a place of worship in ancient Polynesian culture, this marae had also been used for important meetings and events such as war councils, celebrating war victories or holding weddings. Tahiti's highest point is at the old volcano Mont Orohena at about 2,240 meters above sea level. We couldn't drive that high, but high enough to get a nice view of the ocean😉. We looked at beautiful nature and beaches with black sand and ate really good and generous hamburgers at a small restaurant. On the southeast side of the island we came to a small isthmus that divides the island into Tahiti-Nui (big Tahiti) and Tahiti-Iti (little Tahiti). The vast majority of the island's approximately 1,700 inhabitants live on Tahiti-Nui and we never visited Tahiti-Iti but continued around the main island.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The guys took the opportunity to snorkel around the reefs in the lagoon where we anchored and saw many different fish and other animals. Among them a reef shark! The visibility was so good that you could see at least 10 meters down to the bottom! One day they also managed to find the wrecks of an old airplane and a ship. It was a Catalina seaplane that used to fly between Tahiti and Bora Bora. The schooner was once a minesweeper. Both were sunk to the bottom of the lagoon in 1962 and 1976 respectively to provide a diving site for recreational divers. Today, lots of fish thrive at the wrecks.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Papeete is like any other small European city. There is an abundance of jewelry stores here, most of which sell pearl jewelry with black Polynesian pearls. The local market is large and sells jewelry and local crafts, soaps, wicker baskets as well as flowers, fruit and vegetables. We sometimes walked along the promenade to the large city park, Jardin de Paofai. There were often various activities and performances held there. In the evenings, you could smell the intense jasmine-like scent of the white flowers of the Gardenia taitensis (Tiare flower) shrub, the national flower of French Polynesia. These large bushes were planted early on the islands and have been incorporated into Polynesian culture. The flowers are used for wreaths and ornaments and their fragrant essence is used in soaps and perfumes, etc. The traditional way to prepare the flowers is to let them lie in coconut oil for a few days and then use the fragrant oil.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One day we witnessed a small farewell ceremony in the park, between students from different schools. A cultural exchange that takes place every year between students from Raiatea (one of the Society Islands) and Hawaii. The students from Hawaii had come to Tahiti and, among other things, learned more about navigation, sailing and canoe building. There were many tearful farewells where people thanked each other by hanging wreaths around their necks and touching their foreheads to each other. One of the teachers from Raiatea told us about the exchange that had been going on for several years.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a few days in Tahiti, we sailed the short distance to the smaller island of Moorea, which lies northwest of Tahiti. Here too we anchored in the lagoon and had fantastic snorkeling water right next to the boat. Here, in addition to the usual colorful reef fish there are sea turtles, moray eels, rays, black-finned reef sharks and harlequin snake eel (Myrichthys colubrinus), a harmless snake eel with distinctive black and white stripes across its body. As the icing on the cake, a small family of spinner dolphins passed by Anastacia. The youngest ones held their hooves and happily jumped into the air and did daring pirouettes before landing with a splash! They played and showed off until one of the adults flicked his tail so that the water splattered and then they all swam out of the lagoon in a group.Unfortunately we didn't have time to film much of all the beauty we saw😒</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On Moorea we spent a day taking a car ride around the small island and looking around. Like on Tahiti, the nature is incredibly beautiful and varied with lots of different flowering trees and bushes. We visited the small eco-museum and research station Te Fare Natura with a well-made exhibition that, among other things, described the geological processes behind the formation of the Polynesian islands and how the reefs with their protected lagoons have slowly emerged by large pieces of coral reef being broken off and blown towards the islands when the cyclones ravaged. These enormous pieces of coral have, over the years, been "cemented" around the islands through various chemical processes and further growth of corals. Here we could also learn more about the ecosystems in the different environments around the coral reefs. It was definitely worth the visit!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After three days in Moorea, it was time to return to Tahiti and Papeete. We could no longer stay at the anchorage at Moorea as a large canoe competition with traditional Polynesian canoes (vaka, or va'a) with outriggers was to take place between the islands. Unfortunately, we never had time to see any of the competition. It was certainly worth seeing with many different women's, youth and men's classes competing.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In Papeete, we had managed to get a berth at the marina and the last few days before the guys' departure were spent shopping for some souvenirs and visiting the ethnographic museum Te Fare Manaha. The museum is about early Polynesian culture and is not large but extremely informative and the archaeological collections were interesting to look at. We were particularly impressed by the art of boat building where the Polynesians, long before the Europeans arrived, could build beautiful ships of all sizes with simple tools. Everything from small canoes with outriggers to large catamarans. Each type of canoe and ship had its function. The smallest ones were for sailing inland, the slightly larger ones for waging war against other kingdoms on other Polynesian islands and the largest catamarans for exploration and colonization of new places hundreds and sometimes over a thousand nautical miles away! Here we could also learn more about how they could navigate using the position of celestial objects, tidal currents, the flight of birds and cloud formations. We also learned that they applied so-called dead reckoning which we still use today as an extra security to be able to calculate the boat's new position. The museum also explained how the different islands were slowly populated. The Polynesians lived in a hierarchical structure in small kingdoms. The kings were considered more or less divine and power was inherited so it was important to keep bloodlines and kinship in order. When resources began to run out on an island, a group of younger Polynesians set off to find new islands/country to settle on. Originally, the Polynesians came from Asia where Samoa and Tonga were populated around 3000 BC. Then additional flows of people came from (probably) the Philippines and slowly the Polynesians spread south, north and east. Tahiti, for example, is believed to have been populated around 200 BC. Today we speak of the so-called Polynesian Triangle which connects New Zealand, Hawaii and Easter Island where French Polynesia forms a large geographical part with its five archipelagos. The entire area shares roughly the same culture with variations depending on how long people have lived isolated, as a group, in the same place.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">An archaeological artifact at the museum that also caught our attention was the remains of several small strings of braided coconut fiber tied together with small knots. These strings are believed to have been used to help remember important lineages. Since all history and knowledge was based on oral stories, it seems that this type of object could be used as a form of memory hooks to help remember long sequences.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After the museum visit, we were so saturated with information and impressions that it had to be enough for a while… We hope and believe that the guys got most of what they had on their wish list for the trip, checked off. Now they are back in Sweden and in the marina we brought back Anastacia to its original condition 😁 In the last few days we took the opportunity to fill the tanks with drinking water, service the engine and change the filter on the watermaker. We also had to spray the anchor chain again as the experiment with cotton stripes every ten meters did not prove to be so successful. All the stripes had worn away so we had to return to red spray paint. We will anchor in many places in the future and need to know how much chain we will put out. We filled up the food supplies and also bought a good sewing machine to take with us on the boat. After a long wait and many repairs carried out by hand sewing, we can now finally get started on some bigger projects. Among other things, the zipper on the almost 6-meter-long lazy bag (enclosing the sail on the boom) needs to be replaced. On the last evening, we were visited by our British friends on the Ocean Dream 2. We met in Nuku Hiva and have been in touch ever since. We exchanged itineraries and arranged with the Harbor master to take our place in the harbor. Then we set off for Raiatea, the last island we wanted to visit before leaving French Polynesia.</p> <div> <p class="MsoNormal">Here on Raiatea (formerly called Havaii) we are waiting for better winds that can take us further west to the Cook Islands. In the meantime, we have visited another historical cult site, Taputapuatea. This site is said to have been founded when the first Polynesians arrived on the island (around the same time as Tahiti). The site has several marae, probably the first of their kind, and has had particular importance as a religious and political center and is considered to be the historical and cultural cradle of Polynesia. The site has had a renaissance as Polynesians become more interested and aware of their culture, and Taputapuatea has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017. We made the mistake of walking on the stones of a marae at the site and were soon reprimanded by a guide. “As a non-native, you are welcome to visit and take photos but not enter the cult site itself”, she said. We excused ourselves and took a closer look at the information brochures about the area that we had just acquired and on the first page there was a clear information box with the text: “Do not walk on the marae except for cultural ceremonies”. We are great at reading instructions… -not! 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The following days we had only bad weather so Christer immersed himself in reading Ancient Tahitian Society by anthropologist Douglas L. Oliver (University of Hawaii): <a href="https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society">https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society</a> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">It is over 1400 pages of very interesting reading and takes some time to go through but on the other hand we had many days with rain 😊. It is highly recommended reading even though it of course does not give the whole picture of early Polynesian culture. Oral traditions have not been preserved and it is “only” the observations of Europeans that are treated and the Europeans’ contact with the Polynesians also contributed to the transformation of the culture, which the author himself also problematizes. However, it is an honest attempt to give as objective a picture as possible, which we appreciated.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Raiatea is known for its vanilla plantations and when the weather permitted, we took the dinghy to the neighboring island of Tahaa and met Alice who works at the small vanilla plantation, Fare Vanira. Alice is originally from France and is married to a Polynesian man. The small family has lived in Tahaa for many years. We were the only visitors at that time so she had lots of time and talked to us for over two hours! We learned that the vanilla plant belongs to the orchid family and needs a small tree to cling to as it grows. She explained how the flowers are pollinated by hand and showed several plants with vanilla pods in different stages. She said herself that vanilla is her passion and it was clearly noticeable! She showed us different finished vanilla products and how to dry and process the long pods into finished vanilla pods. A process that is repeated every day and takes several months! She gave tips on how the vanilla can be stored over time and also managed to share some food recipes. Among other things, how to get rid of the sour taste in tomato sauce with the help of a little vanilla! Something we tried in the tomato sauce for the pasta that same evening, with successful results although I doubt my Italian relatives would appreciate the venture😊.<br>Alice had great respect for the knowledge that existed earlier in Polynesia about cultivation methods and medicinal plants. On the plantation, pesticides are avoided as much as possible and they try to find other ways to combat pests. One example was getting rid of certain insect pests with the help of ladybugs, which in turn like to live on acacia trees, which were consequently seen everywhere in the plantation. She grew salvia nearby as it has proven to be fantastic against small insects that could damage the vanilla plants. One of many tricks Alicia learned from her Polynesian in-laws. In addition to talking about vanilla, we had time to discuss Polynesian society in general and how people live here today. There were a lot of aha-moments for us…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Our impressions of the little we got to experience of French Polynesia during the two months we spent on different islands are that even though the country is today strongly shaped by French influence, the Polynesian identity has not been completely lost. From the beginning, it was forbidden to speak Polynesian in schools, give newborn children Polynesian names or practice Polynesian religion. The restrictions have now eased considerably. Today, there is a greater awareness of one's own history and a desire to learn more about one's own, to some extent forgotten, culture. Unlike the Caribbean, where the indigenous population no longer remains on the various islands after colonization and it is mainly the descendants of slaves and the colonizers who live on the islands today, Polynesia still has its indigenous population. The culture has been shaped and changed over time The changes became more noticeable after Captain Cook's expeditions in the 18th century and through visits by other Europeans such as the crew of the ship Bounty as well as various whaling boats where some crew members (including some Swedes from the ship Matilda) chose to stay, until the French took over. The Polynesians we met and talked to have not seemed to worry too much about various historical events and even though several injustices have been committed in contact with Europeans that have contributed to sadness and disappointment, they have wanted to look forward. We do not know if this applies more generally or if it is just something that we, as tourists, experience. We have been met with a lot of kindness and helpfulness and also straightforwardness. Here, people do not wrap things up in cotton wool and can, without hesitation, say that "now, I don’t have have time for you" or "you can't do this, it is not showing respect" without any hard feelings. A bit liberating, we think...</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We experienced that the food was expensive on all the islands we visited. Not so surprising since a lot has to be imported and shipped to the islands. Fruit and vegetables can always be obtained but the prices vary depending on whether it is imported or domestic. The same applies to fish and meat. Here you do not pay income tax but goods are taxed all the more. To address the public health problems that the increasing proportion of overweight people in the country has, food products are therefore taxed differently. Alcoholic beverages are taxed at between 100-200%, as are many products with a high sugar content, while basic goods are taxed low. For example, if you want to buy bread, of course baguettes are the way to go, and the simplest ones cost around 6 SEK (60 Polynesian francs), which is affordable for most people.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Before we came to the islands, we had read that Polynesians on the more remote islands, where cargo ships do not come so often, are happy to exchange goods for, for example, fruit and vegetables. We also experienced this, but perhaps not to the extent we had expected. However, we got a strong feeling that people here are generally generous, but also that many things are easier to solve with the help of services and reciprocal services. Which, incidentally, seems to apply to bluewater-sailors too 😊. Hiti, the retired captain we met on the small atoll Kauehi, was very generous and hospitable to us, but he also had a wish. To get a better internet connection than the one available on the island. There are restrictions in French Polynesia regarding which operators are allowed to operate in the country - for economic and understandable reasons. However, we think that sometimes it must be possible to make exceptions when you live in such an isolated place. Hiti did not want us to feel obliged to solve his little problem, but we still promised to see what was possible. Via one of our sailing friends from Viking Explorer who is soon on his way to French Polynesia, it now seems that everything is going to be resolved. Another example is the parcel we brought with us from Galapagos that was addressed to a crew member on a sailboat heading to Tahiti, who had to leave before the package arrived. In addition to traveling on our boat across the Pacific Ocean, the package had to travel with another contact, via air and is now with its very grateful owner who has disembarked in Papeete. The events would not have been possible without the awareness from everyone involved that "next time it could be my turn to need help...".</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We have seen that there are definitely class differences in Polynesian society and, mainly in Papeete, have encountered beggars but certainly not to the extent that we have seen in the Caribbean or Colombia. There is also a much greater acceptance of LGBTQ people here and even though the Christian religion has reduced tolerance in general, we have never met so many people (usually guys) who are, so to speak, members of the third gender and who are so openly and obviously part of society. The closest description from our Western eyes would be that we have met an unusually large number of transgender people. However, this is not a completely accurate description, since the third gender includes many roles and responsibilities in older Polynesian culture.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In a few days we will be leaving on a four-day sailing to the Cook Islands and will be celebrating Easter there. The next stop will probably be Niue and then we will sail on to Tonga and then Fiji. All are Polynesian islands but different countries!</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br></p> </div> <p class="MsoNormal">Tahiti är den största av de totalt 14 öarna i ögruppen Sällskapsöarna och här ligger också Papeete som är huvudstaden för hela Franska Polynesien. Tahiti, liksom de många av öarna i arkipelagen, är omgärdade av laguner skyddade av stora rev som omringar öarna och fungerar som effektiva vågbrytare. Lite som en kombination av ö och atoll! Vi kom till Tahiti den 10 mars, två dygn efter att vi lämnat Fakarava. Förutom några rejäla squalls bjöd seglingen inte på några överraskningar. Ingen av marinorna på Tahiti hade svarat på våra förfrågningar om boj- eller hamnplats så vi bestämde oss för att ligga för ankar istället. När vi närmade oss mynningen till lagunen vid Papeete möttes vi av en liten grupp delfiner som lekte i tidvattenvågorna men de lämnade oss snart. Vi ropade upp ”Port control” på radion för att anmäla vår ankomst och be om tillstånd att få passera inloppet. Eftersom det ligger en flygplats intill staden behövde vi även få klartecken för att passera flygplatsens start- och landningsbana för att nå ankringsområdet. Efter några minuter fick vi klartecken att segla till ankringsplatsen. Där låg vi sedan och förberedde båten för våra ankommande gäster.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">En kväll tyckte vi att månen såg märklig ut med ett moln som envist täckte en liten del av den. Till slut förstod vi att det inte var ett moln och efter lite googlande insåg vi att vi just fått äran att bevittna början av en total månförmörkelse! Med blodmåne och allt! Vi bara njöt och tittade på hela förloppet med en fullständigt klar himmel. Lite ont i nacken fick vi efteråt, men det var det värt! 😁</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Den 15 mars kom äntligen sonen Isac med kompisen Joel och det blev ett glatt återseende. Killarna hade önskemål om att få se ön Tahiti innan vi skulle segla den korta biten till grannön Moorea. Vi hyrde bil och körde runt ön och besökte det ena vattenfallet efter det andra. Vi besökte också en gammal kultplats, marae, med typiskt stensatt rektangulärt, stort och högt altare. På platsen fanns också tikis (antropomorfa statyer av gudaliknande människor). Förutom att fungera som en plats för tillbedjan i den antika polynesiska kulturen, hade denna marae också använts för viktiga möten och händelser som krigsråd, fira krigssegrar eller hålla bröllop. Tahitis högsta punkt är vid den gamla vulkanen Mont Orohena på cirka 2 240 meter över havet. Så högt upp kunde vi inte köra men tillräckligt högt för att få en fin utsikt över havet😉. Vi tittade på vacker natur och stränder med svart sand samt åt riktigt goda och väl tilltagna hamburgare på liten restaurang. På öns sydostsida kom vi till ett litet näs som delar ön i Tahiti-Nui (stora Tahiti) och Tahiti-Iti (lilla Tahiti). De allra flesta av öns ca 1700 invånare bor på Tahiti-Nui och vi i besökte aldrig Tahiti-Iti utan fortsatte runt huvudön.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Killarna passade på att snorkla runt reven i lagunen där vi ankrat och fick se många olika fiskar och andra djur. Bl a revhaj! Sikten var så god att man kunde se minst 10 meter ner mot botten! En dag lyckades de också hitta vraken från ett gammalt flygplan och ett skepp. Det var ett Catalina sjöflygplan som brukade flyga mellan Tahiti och Bora Bora. Skonaren var en gång en minsvepare. Båda sänktes på botten av lagunen under 1962 respektive 1976 för att just utgöra en dykplats för fritidsdykare. Idag trivs massor av fiskar vid vraken. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Papeete är som vilken mindre europeisk stad som helst. Här finns ett överflöd av juvelerarbutiker som till största delen säljer pärlsmycken med svarta polynesiska pärlor. Den lokala marknaden är stor och här säljs smycken och lokalt hantverk, tvålar, flätade korgar liksom blommor, frukt och grönt. Vi gick ibland strandpromenaden till den stora stadsparken Jardin de Paofai. Där hölls ofta olika aktiviteter och föreställningar. På kvällarna kunde man känna den intensiva jasminliknande doften från de vita blommorna på busken Gardenia taitensis (Tiare flower), Franska Polynesiens nationalblomma. Dessa stora buskar inplanterats tidigt till öarna och har införlivats i den polynesiska kulturen. Blommorna används till kransar och prydnader och dess doftessens används i tvålar och parfymer etc. Det traditionella sättet att bereda blommorna är att låta dem ligga i kokosolja i några dygn och sedan använda den väldoftande oljan.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">En dag fick vi bevittna en liten avskedsceremoni parken mellan elever från olika skolor. Ett kulturutbyte som sker varje år mellan elever från i Raiatea (en av sällskapsöarna) och Hawaii. Eleverna från Hawaii hade kommit till Tahiti och bl a fått lära sig mer om navigation, segling och kanotbygge. Det blev många tårfyllda avsked där man tackade varandra genom att hänga blomkransar runt halsen och nudda pannorna mot varandra. En av lärarna från Raiatea berättade för oss om utbytet som pågått i flera år.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efter några dygn i Tahiti seglade vi den korta biten till den mindre ön Moorea som ligger nordväst om Tahiti. Även här ankrade vi i lagunen och hade fantastiska snorkelvatten precis intill båten. Här fanns, förutom de vanliga färgglada revfiskarna även vattensköldpaddor, muränor, rockor, svartfenad revhaj och Harlequin snake eel (Myrichthys colubrinus), en ofarlig ormål med distinkta svartvita band tvärsöver kroppen. Som grädde på moset kom en liten familj spinndelfiner och passerade Anastacia. De yngsta höll hov och hoppade glatt upp i luften och gjorde halsbrytande piruetter innan de landade med ett plask! De lekte och visade upp sig tills en av de vuxna snärtade till med stjärten så det small till i vattnet och så simmade de alla ut ur lagunen i samlad tropp. Tyvärr hann vi inte filma så mycket av allt vackert vi såg😒</p> <p class="MsoNormal">På Moorea ägnade vi en dag åt att ta en biltur runt den lilla ön och se oss omkring. Liksom på Tahiti är naturen fantastiskt vacker och varierad med massor av olika blommande träd och buskar. Vi besökte det lilla ekomuseet och forskningsstationen Te Fare Natura med en välgjord utställning som bland annat beskrev de geologiska processer som ligger bakom tillkomsten av Polynesiens öar och hur reven med sina skyddade laguner sakta har uppstått genom att stora bitar av korallrev brutits loss och blåst in mot öarna när cyklonerna härjat. Dessa enorma korallbitar har, under årens lopp, ”cementerats fast” runt öarna genom olika kemiska processer och ytterligare tillväxt av koraller. Här kunde vi också lära oss mer om ekosystemen på de olika miljöerna runt korallreven. Det var helt klart värt besöket!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efter tre dygn i Moorea var det dags att återvända till Tahiti och Papeete. Vi kunde inte längre ligga kvar vid ankarplatsen vid Moorea då en stor kanottävling med traditionella polynesiska kanoter (vaka, eller va'a) med utriggare skulle gå av stapeln mellan öarna. Tyvärr hann vi aldrig se något av tävlingen. Den var säkert sevärd med många olika dam- ungdoms- och herrklasser som tävlade. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">I Papeete hade vi lyckats få en hamnplats och de sista dagarna innan killarnas avfärd gick till att handla lite souvenirer och besöka etnografiska museet Te Fare Manaha. Museet handlar om den tidiga polynesiska kulturen och är inte stort men oerhört informativt och de arkeologiska samlingarna var intressanta att se på. Vi blev särskilt imponerade av båtbyggarkonsten där polynesierna, långt innan européerna kom, med enkla verktyg kunde bygga vackra skepp i alla storlekar. Allt från små kanoter med utriggare till stora katamaraner. Varje kanot- och skeppstyp hade sin funktion. De minsta för att segla inomskärs, de lite större för krigsföring mot andra kungadömen på andra polynesiska öar och de största katamaranerna för upptäcktsfärder och kolonisering av nya platser hundratals och ibland över tusen sjömil bort! Här kunde vi också lära oss mer om hur de kunde navigera med hjälp av himlakroppars position, tidvattenströmmar, fåglars flykt och molnformationer. Vi har också läst oss till att man tillämpade s k död räkning som vi själva använder än idag som en extra säkerhet för att kunna beräkna båten nya position. På museet förklarades också hur de olika öarna sakta befolkats. Polynesierna levde i en hierarkisk struktur i små kungadömen. Kungarna ansågs vara mer eller mindre gudomliga och makten ärvdes så det var viktigt att hålla ordning på blodslinjer och släktskap. När resurserna började tryta på en ö gav sig en grupp yngre polynesier sig av för att hitta nya öar/land att bosätta sig på. Ursprungligen kom polynesierna från Asien där Samoa och Tonga befolkades runt 3000 f kr. Sedan kom ytterligare folkströmmar från (troligen) Filippinerna och sakta spred sig polynesierna söderut, norrut och österut. Tahiti tror man exempelvis befolkades runt 200 f kr. Idag talar man om den s k Polynesiska Triangeln som binder samman Nya Zeeland, Hawaii och Påskön där Franska Polynesien utgör en stor geografisk del med sina fem arkipelager. Hela området delar ungefär samma kultur med variationer beroende på hur länge man levt isolerad, som grupp, på samma plats.<br> En arkeologisk artefakt på muséet, som också fångade vår uppmärksamhet, var resterna av flera sammanbundna små snören i flätad kokosfiber med små knutar på. Dessa snören tror man användes för att lättare komma ihåg viktiga släktled. Eftersom all historia och kunskap byggde på muntliga berättelser verkar det som att denna typ av föremål kunde användas som en form av minneskrokar för att lättare komma ihåg långa sekvenser.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efter museibesöket var vi så fulla av information och intryck så det fick räcka för ett tag… Vi hoppas och tror att killarna fick bockat av det mesta de hade på sin önskelista inför resan. Nu är de åter i Sverige och i hamnen återställde Anastacia till ursprungligt skick 😁De sista dagarna passade vi på att fylla på med dricksvatten i tankarna, serva motorn och byta filter på watermakern. Dessutom fick vi spraya ankarkättingen igen då experimentet med bomullsband var tionde meter inte visat sig vara så lyckat. Alla band hade nötts bort så vi fick återgå till röd sprayfärg. Vi kommer att ankra på många ställen framöver och behöver veta hur mycket kätting vi lägger ut. Vi fyllde på matförråden och köpte också en bra symaskin att ta med oss på båten. Efter lång väntan och många lagningar som genomförts genom handsömnad kan vi nu äntligen ge oss på lite större projekt. Bl a behöver dragkedjan på den nästan 6 meter långa lazybagen (omsluter seglet på bommen) bytas ut. Sista kvällen fick vi besök av våra brittiska vänner på Ocean Dream 2. Vi träffades i Nuku Hiva och har haft kontakt sedan dess. Vi utbytte färdplaner och ordnade med hamnkaptenen så de kunde överta vår plats i hamnen. Sedan gav vi oss iväg till Raiatea, den sista ön vi ville besöka innan vi lämnar Franska Polynesien.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Här på Raiatea (hette tidigare Havaii) väntar vi på vind som kan ta oss vidare västerut till Cook Island. Under tiden har vi besökt ytterligare en historisk kultplats, Taputapuatea. Denna plats sägs ha grundats när de första polynesierna kom till ön runt (ungefär samtidigt som till Tahiti). Platsen har flera marae, troligen de första i sitt slag, och har haft särskilt stor betydelse som religiöst och politiskt centrum och anses utgöra Polynesiens historiska och kulturella vagga. Platsen har fått en renässans i takt med att polynesierna blir mer intresserade och medvetna om sin kultur och Taputapuatea är sedan 2017 en del av UNESCOs världsarv. Vi begick misstaget att gå på stenarna på en marae på platsen och blev snart tillrättavisade av en guide. Som icke-infödd får man gärna besöka och ta kort men inte beträda själva kultplatsen, sa hon. Vi ursäktade oss och kikade lite extra i informationsbroschyrerna om området som vi just skaffat och på första sidan stod en tydlig informationsruta med texten: ”Do not walk on the marae except for cultural ceremonies”. Jättebra på att läsa anvisningar är vi… -inte! 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efterföljande dagar hade vi bara ruskväder så Christer försjönk i läsning av Ancient Tahitian Society av antropologen Douglas L. Oliver (University of Hawaii): <a href="https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society">https://manifold.uhpress.hawaii.edu/projects/ancient-tahitian-society</a><br> Det är över 1400 sidor mycket intressant läsning och tar lite tid att gå igenom men å andra sidan hade vi många dagar med regn 😊 Den rekommenderas varmt även om det såklart inte ger hela bilden av den tidiga polynesiska kulturen. Muntliga traditioner finns inte bevarade och det är ”bara” européernas iakttagelser som behandlas och européernas kontakt med polynesierna bidrog också till omformandet av kulturen, vilket författaren också själv problematiserar. Det är dock ett ärligt försök att ge en så objektiv bild av som möjligt som vi uppskattade.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Raiatea är känt för sina vaniljodlingar och när vädret tillät tog vi dingen till grannön Tahaa och träffade Alice som jobbar på den lilla vaniljplantagen Fare Vanira. Alice kommer ursprungligen från Frankrike och är gift med en polynesisk man och den lilla familjen bor i Tahaa sedan många år tillbaka. Vi var de enda besökarna just då så hon hade tid och pratade med oss i över två timmar! Vi fick lära oss att vaniljplantan tillhör orkidésläktet och behöver ett litet träd att klamra sig fast runt när det växer. Hon förklarade hur blommorna pollineras för hand och visade flera plantor med vaniljfröskidor i olika stadier. Hon sa själv att vanilj är hennes passion och det märktes tydligt! Hon visade oss olika färdiga vaniljprodukter samt hur man torkar och behandlar de långa fröskidorna till färdiga vaniljstänger. En process som upprepas varje dag och tar flera månader! Hon gav tips på hur vaniljen kan lagras över tid och hann också med några matrecept. Bland annat hur man kunde bli av med den syrliga smaken i tomatsås med hjälp av lite vanilj! Något vi provade i tomatsåsen till pastan redan samma kväll, med lyckat resultat även om jag tvivlar på att mina italienska släktingar skulle upskatta tilltaget 😊.<br> Alice hyste stor respekt för de kunskaper som fanns tidigare i Polynesien kring odlingsmetoder och medicinalväxter. På odlingen undviker man bekämpningsmedel så långt det går och försöker hitta andra sätt att bekämpa skadedjur. Ett exempel var att bli av med vissa skadeinsekter med hjälp av nyckelpigor som i sin tur gärna vill leva på akacieträd vilka följaktligen syntes lite varstans i odlingen. Salvia odlade hon i närheten då den visat sig vara fantastiskt bra mot små kryp som kunde skada vaniljplantorna. Ett av många knep Alicia lärt av sina polynesiska svärföräldrar. Förutom vaniljprat så hann vi med att diskutera polynesiska samhället i stort och hur människor lever här idag. Det blev en hel del aha-upplevelser för vår del…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Våra intryck av det lilla vi fått uppleva av Franska Polynesien under de två månader vi vistats på olika öar är att trots att landet idag är starkt format av det franska inflytandet så har den polynesiska identiteten inte gått helt förlorad. Från att det från början var förbjudet att prata polynesiska i skolorna, ge nyfödda barn polynesiska namn eller utöva polynesisk religion har restriktionerna lättat betydligt. Idag finns en större medvetenhet om den egna historien och en önskan om att lära sig mer om sin egen, till viss del bortglömda, kultur. Till skillnad från Karibien, där ursprungsbefolkningen inte längre finns kvar på de olika öarna efter koloniseringen och det är slavättlingar och ättlingar av kolonisatörerna som idag lever på öarna, så har trots allt Polynesien sin ursprungsbefolkning kvar. Kulturen har formats över tid och förändrats. Förändringarna blev mer påtagliga efter Kapten Cooks expeditioner på 1700-talet och genom besök av andra européer som exempelvis besättningen på skeppet Bounty liksom olika valfångarbåtar där även vissa besättningsmedlemmar (däribland några svenskar från fartyget Matilda) valt att stanna kvar, fram till fransmännens övertagande. De polynesier vi träffat och pratat med har inte verkat oroa sig alltför mycket över olika historiska händelser och även om flera oförrätter har begåtts i kontakten med européer som bidragit till sorg och besvikelse så har man velat se framåt. Vi vet inte om det gäller mer generellt eller om det bara är något som vi, som turister upplever. Vi har mötts av mycket vänlighet och hjälpsamhet och också rättframhet. Här lindar man inte in orden så mycket utan kan, utan omsvep, säga att ”nu har jag inte längre tid med er” eller ”så här får ni inte göra, det är inte att visa respekt” utan att det ligger någon mer värdering i det. Lite befriande, tycker vi…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi upplevde vi att maten var dyr på alla öar vi besökt. Inte så konstigt då mycket måste importeras och fraktas till öarna. Frukt och grönt går alltid att få tag i men priserna varierar beroende på om det är importerat eller inhemskt. Detsamma gäller fisk och kött. Här betalar man ingen inkomstskatt men varor beskattas desto mer. För att möta de folkhälsoproblem som den ökade andelen överviktiga i landet har, beskattas därför matvaror olika. Alkoholhaltiga drycker beskattas till mellan 100-200% liksom många produkter med högt sockerinnehåll medan basvaror beskattas lågt. Om man exempelvis vill köpa bröd så är det såklart baguetter som gäller och de enklaste kostar runt 6 kr (60 polynesiska franc) vilket är överkomligt för de flesta.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Innan vi kom till öarna hade vi läst att polynesier på de mer avlägsna öarna, dit fraktfartygen inte kommer så ofta, gärna byter till sig varor mot t ex frukt och grönsaker. Det fick vi också uppleva men kanske inte i den omfattning vi hade förväntat oss. Dock fick vi en stark känsla av att människor generellt här är givmilda men också att många saker lättare löses med hjälp av tjänster och gentjänster. Vilket för övrigt verkar gälla för långseglare också 😊. Hiti, den pensionerade kaptenen vi träffade på den lilla atollen Kauehi var mycket givmild och gästvänlig mot oss men hade också en önskan. Att få bättre en internetuppkoppling än den som fanns tillgänglig på ön. Det finns restriktioner i Franska Polynesien vad gäller vilka operatörer som får verka i landet -av ekonomiska och förståeliga skäl. Dock tycker vi att det ibland måste kunna gå att göra undantag när man lever på en så isolerad plats. Hiti ville inte att vi skulle känna oss tvungna att lösa hans lilla problem men vi lovade ändå att se vad som var möjligt. Via en av våra seglarvänner från Viking Explorer som snart är på väg till Franska Polynesien verkar nu det hela lösa sig. Ett annat exempel är paketet vi tog med oss från Galapagos som var adresserat till en besättningsman, på en segelbåt på väg till Tahiti, som blev tvungen att ge sig av innan paketet hunnit fram. Förutom att färdas på vår båt över Stilla havet har paketet fått åka med ytterligare en kontakt, via flyg och är nu hos sin mycket tacksamme ägare som mönstrat av i Papeete. Händelserna hade inte varit möjliga utan alla involverades känsla för att ”nästa gång kan det vara min tur att behöva hjälp…”.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi har sett att det absolut finns klasskillnader i det polynesiska samhället och, främst i Papeete, träffat på tiggare men absolut inte i den omfattning som vi sett i Karibien eller Colombia. Här finns också en mycket större acceptans för HBTQ-personer och även om den kristna religionen gjort att toleransen minskat generellt så har vi aldrig träffat på så många människor (oftast killar) som s a s tillhör det tredje könet och som så öppet och självklart är en del av samhället. Närmaste beskrivningen utifrån våra västerländska ögon skulle vara att vi träffat ovanligt många transpersoner. Det är dock inte en helt rättvisande beskrivning, eftersom det tredje könet inbegriper många roller och ansvar i äldre polynesisk kultur.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Om några dagar ger vi oss av på en fyradygns-seglats till Cook Islands och skall fira påsk där. Nästa anhalt blir troligen Niue och sedan seglar vi vidare till Tonga och därefter Fiji. Alla är polynesiska öar men olika länder!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><iframe width="490px" height="240px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M4cXi_b-jz8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Tahiti and Papeete</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123908.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_115504.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_152259.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_123433.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_124851.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_151750.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_131825.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250324_102308.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322_100513.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="902" data-original-height="886" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250322Tahiti.png?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Marae and the ethnographic museum (Tahiti)</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_114002.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250316_120848.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_122624.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_125805.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250323_130705.jpg?1744084448?1744084448" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Moorea</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_121525.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_120554.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250320_100858.jpg?1744083794?1744083794" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Raiatea</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103542.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250403_103637.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Local Market at Raiatea (with music performance 😊)</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RPCVEwVLrqE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p class="MsoNormal"><em style="font-size: 11px;"><br></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em style="font-size: 11px;">We bought Avocados (Avozilla), Apples, Bananas, Pompelmus, Rambutan, Pineapple and Papaya</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1816" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250404_113917.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Taputapuatea (Raiatea)</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_145109.jpg?1744085263?1744085263" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_152140.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_153203.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150738.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250330_150706.jpg?1744085263?1744085263" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Vanilla plantation (Tahaa)</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1816" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_154003.jpg?1744085263?1744085263" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134131.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_134240.jpg?1744085262?1744085262" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Society%20Isl/20250405_135445.jpg?1744085263?1744085263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p> Mon, 07 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/april-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-society-islands /blog/april-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-society-islands French Polynesia and the Tuamotus Malin <p class="MsoNormal">The sail from Nuku Hiva to the small atoll Kauehi in Tuamotu took four days and started with a surprisingly large pod of dolphins with over 50 individuals that joined us for an hour or so. We believe they were bottlenose dolphins. Wonderful to see! 😍 During the sail we had good wind but very variable weather. During the day we had strong sunshine and at night one small storm replaced another with so-called squalls which mean a sudden increase in wind that lasts for 15-20 minutes with thunder and sometimes rain. Neither the windvane nor the autopilot is able to keep the course during stronger squalls so you have to steer manually, follow the wind, and then slowly bring the boat back in the right direction. It was certainly good training because you learn to handle the boat in tougher weather but also tiring in the long run because we are alone on the shifts at night, when the other person is sleeping. At one point it rained so heavily that you couldn't even see the other side of the cockpit when you were at the helm. You just had to try to keep up, and steer the boat as best you could until it was all over. We also saw large illuminated ships at night without any AIS turned on, moving slowly a few nautical miles away. We suspected large trawlers that didn't want to be discovered. Later we also received confirmation that Chinese and Japanese fishing vessels are fishing illegally in Polynesian waters.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The entire Tuamotus consists of 78 atolls spread over an area that is about 2,000 km long. The atolls are all former underwater volcanoes that are now coral reefs. Kauehi is a small atoll that is relatively easy to get into and was therefore our beginner's choice 😊 The only entrance is on the southwest side of the atoll. We had managed to adjust the sailing so that there was just over an hour left until high tide when we reached the inlet and the current was about two knots into the atoll. We had a light wind against us which did not pose any major problems but we sailed through the mouth with some areas with "overfalls" and smaller so-called standing waves which are the result of when the current and waves/wind go in opposite directions. It was very deep both just outside and just inside the inlet. Once inside the atoll we noticed that it was much larger than we had first thought. It took us just over an hour to reach the northwestern, inhabited part. The rest of the atoll consists of reefs that are either just below the water surface or are lined with coconut palms. A strange feeling to sail into an old volcanic crater! Once we arrived at the village of Tearavero which is located at a shallower part of the lagoon we were lucky enough that the only remaining buoy was free and in good condition, so we moored at it. Apart from another sailboat that was in the same lagoon, we were the only visitors. The other boat turned out to belong to a Frenchman who had been in the area for 15 years!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Kauehi has around 200 inhabitants. The village has everything you could need, shops, church, cemetery, school, a mayor, a small health centre etc. The island has also had its own small airport for a few years now, with flights 1-2 times a week. The main source of income comes from the coconut plantations owned by the various families on the atoll. There used to be pearl farms here, but these have now been closed down. Old pearl farm buoys are ideal for holding up the anchor chain (i.e. floating anchor chain) when anchoring near corals. With these buoys, the chain is kept slightly above the seabed and there is no risk of damaging the corals or getting stuck around the coral heads (boomies) when the boat turns around. We were looking to get hold of some of these buoys and to our delight got a couple from some kind villagers who had them in their gardens 😊We wanted to pay or exchange them for something, but they didn't want to hear about it!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We stayed a few days at Tearavero and enjoyed looking at the turquoise water with small darker boomies with small colorful reef fish. We got to know the retired captain Hiti who was born and raised on the island. He told us about his life and how he did his military service in the French navy as a young man. Throughout his adult life he has been a captain of cargo ships and traveled to many distant places. He knew all the islands and atolls in French Polynesia well. He himself thought that he and his wife were doing well in their nice house and were happy with their pension. We asked him how he viewed the issue of independence from France and he replied that few Polynesians talk about it out loud and the younger generation do not want to hear about completely freeing themselves from France. After all, France contributes economically and with infrastructure, education systems, etc., but the older generation may have a different view.<br> -We are not free, he said. Then he looked at us seriously and continued.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">- You know. During our military service, we were ordered to Moruroa 24 hours after they dropped the bomb. 24 hours! “It was nothing dangerous”, they said. We wondered. If it's not dangerous. Why don't they detonate the bombs in France? Why here? I remember what it looked like! Destruction everywhere, dead fish floating in the water...<br>Then he turned away and fell silent. We understood that this was hard to talk about, and didn't ask any more questions.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Hati changed the subject and told us that he now takes care of the family's coconut plantation and showed us his land and how to harvest the coconuts. He offered us fresh coconut water from still green coconuts. Then he showed us some young coconut palms that were only a year old. My grandchild planted these, he said and smiled broadly! He proudly told us about his children and grandchildren. The children were all well-educated. Some lived in Tahiti, others in France. None of them lived on the island, which is slowly being depopulated. On Kauehi, as on many other smaller islands, children go to school until they are around 10 years old. To continue their education (secondary school), they must be accommodated with a family in Tahiti, for example. If you don't know of a family the children can stay with, the parents may also have to move there and look for accommodation and support. Young Polynesians also choose to continue their studies at universities in France and it can be difficult to motivate themselves to move back to the island where the livelihoods are worse.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After the little sightseeing, Hiti gave us two young coconuts to take on the boat and urged us to drink the water from them within a week because otherwise they would have time to go bad from being shaken around on the boat. He gave us advice on how to navigate into Fakarava, our next destination. When we asked if he knew the times for high and low tide for the next 24 hours, he said that nowadays he just went by what he had learned from his grandfather. When the moon was at its highest in its orbit, it was high tide. Then you can calculate the rest… We thanked him for his hospitality and everything he had taught us with a gift in return and the next day we set off for Fakarava. We had studied the moon’s path in the evening and, sure enough, when we looked at the tide tables for the area, the theory was relatively correct. The time for the highest point on the moon’s path is high tide. If you add 6 hours and 15 minutes, you get the time for the next low tide, after another 6 hours and 15 minutes the next high tide will come, etc. Then you just have to consult the moon again… Not an exact science but enough for us to navigate by😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Afterwards, we also read more about the nuclear weapons tests that France carried out on the uninhabited atolls of Moruroa and adjacent Fangataufa. We also remembered how the Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior had been sunk in connection with these and the protests that arose around the world. Between 1966 and 1996, over 190 nuclear weapons tests were carried out on the atolls, both above and below ground. It was later shown that this had devastating consequences for both animal and plant life and, not least, all residents of the islands and the military personnel who participated in various missions in connection with the blasts. Primarily, the number of cases of thyroid cancer has increased significantly, but the frequency of other forms of cancer has also increased, as have deformities in newborns, birth defects, etc. since the test blasts were carried out, and the whole of Polynesia has been affected in various ways because the winds and water currents have brought radioactive particles with them. It can still be difficult to obtain compensation from the French governement, even though the regulations have changed somewhat over the years as more evidence has been produced of damage linked to the blasts. France was by no means the only country to have carried out this type of blast. The USA, Great Britain, the Soviet Union/Russia and China have also carried out test blasts, to name a few. These have also almost always taken place in occupied areas where the indigenous population has been affected….</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The sail to Fakarava, where we are now, took almost six hours. The island is the second largest in the Tuamotu and is part of one of the UNESCO biosphere reserves. The atoll and has two inlets/outlets. We entered through the (enormous) northern inlet, completely without any problems. Even in this atoll, it is the northern part that is inhabited with the largest village, Rotoava. Just outside Rotoava, about fifty sailboats were anchored. When we arrived, we looked for a free place to anchor and tried, for the first time, to float the anchor chain with our buoys as not to damage or get stuck to the corals on the seabed. However, the depth was so great that no corals probably grew there, but we practiced anyway. We were a little worried that if the chain came off the seabed, the anchor might not set properly, but we have now been here for four days without dragging, so it seems to be working. 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava turned out to be much more tourist-oriented than little Kauehi and reminded us more of Nuku Hiva with large cruise ships that come in and unload passengers ashore for a day's experiences before they re-board for the onward journey to the next island. Craft shops, grocery stores and restaurants are open and taxis arrange transport and small excursions. It is important to make the most of the hours that tourists are ashore!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The atoll is so large that there is a lot of life in the large lagoon such as different species of sharks, turtles, rays, mantas, etc. Even dolphins are said to be here! The atmosphere is calm and relaxed and we were warmly welcomed by the staff at the mayor's office when we went in to pay the tourist and garbage fee.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In the shallower parts of the lagoon, the water is turquoise blue and the sand is chalk white. For those who like sun, swimming and white beaches, this is pure paradise! Small boomies can be seen here and there in the water that you can cross between when you go ashore with the dinghy. We took the time to snorkel around a reef that was close to the boat and saw lots of reef fish and beautiful corals. Unfortunately, most of the corals were in poor condition and completely gray. We have also seen blacktip reef sharks, nurse sharks and large water turtles. It also looks like we caught three suckerfish from Kauhei that probably hitchhiked with us by sitting under the Anastacia's hull. We had fed them small pieces of bread in Kauehi and were surprised when the same fish appeared again as soon as we anchored in Fakarava. They look funny with a big sucker plate on their heads… Of course, they got some bread crumbs here too. Baguettes, naturally. These are French islands! 😁.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava is perhaps best known for its pearl farms and that was something we wanted to learn more about. You can see the buoys of the farms floating in the water further out in the lagoon. We booked a small tour at Les Perles D'Havaiki. The guide showed the whole process, from surgically inserting a small mini-pearl made of seashells into the oyster's stomach to how to pick out a finished pearl after the oyster has grown for about two years. The finished pearl is then washed and classified by color, size, shape, etc. In Polynesia, mainly black pearls are cultivated, which have a special luster. The whole process requires clean water and a good environment for the oyster to thrive. An oyster can be allowed to produce several pearls one after the other until it is too old. In cases where the oyster can no longer be used, it is opened completely and the meat (muscle) is sold to restaurants. The shells are used to make jewelry and other works of art, as these also have a beautiful luster. To end the tour, we each got to choose an oyster that was ready to harvest and take home the pearl that had formed in it. Now we understand what a complicated process pearl farming is and involves many steps that require craftsmanship and several different professions.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now, we will soon set off again. There will be no more atolls for us, but we have a two-day sailing to Tahiti where we are also expecting a visit from our son and his friend.</p> <div> ~~~~~~~~~~~</div><p><br></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Seglingen från Nuku Hiva till den lilla atollen Kauehi i Tuamotu tog fyra dygn och började med en överraskande stor flock delfiner med över 50 individer som slog följe med oss under någon timme. Vi tror det var flasknosdelfiner. Underbart att se! 😍 Under seglatsen hade vi bra vind men mycket varierande väder. På dagarna hade vi starkt solsken och på nätterna avlöste det ena lilla ovädret det andra med s k squalls som innebär plötslig vindökning som varar i 15-20 minuter med åska och ibland regn. Vare sig vindroder eller autopilot klarar att hålla kursen vid kraftigare squalls så man får handstyra och s a s följa med vinden, för att sedan sakta föra båten tillbaka i rätt riktning. Bra träning var det visserligen eftersom man lär sig hantera båten i tuffare väder men också tröttsamt i längden eftersom vi är ensamma på passen nattetid, då den andre sover. Vid ett tillfälle regnade det så kraftigt att det inte ens gick att se andra sidan av sittbrunnen när man stod vid rodret. Det var bara att försöka hänga med, och styra båten så gott det gick tills det hela var över. Vi fick också återigen se stora upplysta fartyg på nätterna utan någon AIS påslagen som sakta rörde sig på några sjömils avstånd. Vi misstänkte stora trålare som helst inte ville bli upptäckta. Senare har vi också fått bekräftat att kinesiska och japanska fiskefartyg fiskar olovandes i de polynesiska vattnen.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Hela Tuamotus består av 78 atoller utspridda på ett område som är ca 2 000 km långt. Atollerna är alla före detta undervattensvulkaner som numera är korallrev. Kauehi är en liten atoll som är relativt enkel att ta sig in i och blev därför vårt nybörjarval 😊 Det enda inloppet ligger på atollens sydvästra sida. Vi hade lyckats anpassa seglingen så det var drygt en timme kvar till högvatten när vi nådde inloppet och strömmen var på ca två knop in mot atollen. Vi hade svag vind emot oss som inte utgjorde några större problem utan vi seglade igenom mynningen med några områden med ”overfalls” och mindre s k stående vågor som är resultatet av när ström och vågor/vind går i motsatta riktningar. Det var bråddjupt både strax utanför och strax innanför mynningen. Väl inne i atollen konstaterade vi att den var mycket större än vi först hade trott. Det tog oss dryga timmen att nå den nordvästra, bebodda delen. Resten av atollen utgörs av rev som antingen ligger strax under vattenytan eller är beklädda med kokospalmer. En märklig känsla att segla in i en gammal vulkankrater! Väl framme vid byn Tearavero som ligger vid en grundare del i lagunen hade vi sådan tur att den enda kvarvarande bojen var ledig och i gott skick, så vi lade till vid den. Förutom en annan segelbåt som låg i samma lagun var vi de enda besökarna. Den andra båten visade sig tillhöra en fransman som vistats i området i 15 år!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">På Kauehi bor runt 200 invånare. I byn finns det mesta som man kan behöva, affärer, kyrka, kyrkogård, skola, en borgmästare, en liten vårdcentral etc. Ön har sedan några år tillbaka även en egen mindre flygplats där flygen går 1-2 gånger i veckan. Främsta inkomstkällan kommer från kokosplantagen som ägs av de olika familjerna på atollen. Tidigare fanns det även pärlodlingar här men dessa var nu nerlagda. Gamla pärlodlingsbojar är idealiska för att kunna hålla uppe ankarkättingen (s k bojad kätting) när man skall ankra i närheten av koraller. Med dessa bojar hålls kättingen lite ovanför botten och man riskerar inte att förstöra korallerna eller fastna runt korallhuvudena (boomies) när båten svänger runt. Vi var ute efter att få tag i några sådana bojar och fick till vår förtjusning ett par av några snälla bybor som hade dem i sina trädgårdar 😊Vi ville betala eller byta med något med det ville de inte höra talas om!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi stannade några dagar vid Tearavero och njöt av att titta på det turkosa vattnet med små mörkare boomies med små färgglada revfiskar. Vi lärde känna den pensionerade kaptenen Hiti som är född och uppvuxen på ön. Han berättade om sitt liv och hur han gjort sin militärtjänst i den franska flottan som ung. Under hela sitt vuxna liv har han varit kapten på fraktfartyg och rest till många avlägsna platser. Han kände väl till alla öar och atoller i Franska Polynesien. Han tyckte själv att han och hans fru hade det bra i sitt fina hus och var nöjd med sin pension. Vi frågade om hur han såg på frågan om självständighet från Frankrike. Han förklarade att få polynesier pratar högt om det och de yngre vill inte höra talas om att helt frigöra sig från Frankrike. Frankrike bidrar trots allt ekonomiskt och med infrastruktur, utbildningssystem m m men de äldre har kanske en annan syn, menade han.<br> -Vi är ju inte fria, sa han. Sedan såg han allvarligt på oss och sa:<br> -Ni vet. Under militärtjänsten blev vi kommenderade till Moruroa 24 timmar efter att de släppte bomben. 24 timmar! ”Det var inget farligt”, sa de. Vi undrade. Om det inte är farligt. Varför spränger de då inte bomberna i Frankrike? Varför hos oss? Jag minns hur det såg ut! Förstörelse överallt, döda fiskar flöt i vattnet…<br>Sedan vände han sig bort och tystnade. Det här var jobbigt att tala om, förstod vi och ställde inga fler frågor.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Hati bytte samtalsämne och berättade att han numera sköter om familjens kokosplantage och visade oss sina marker och hur man skördar kokosnötterna. Han bjöd på färskt kokosvatten från ännu gröna kokosnötter. Sedan visade han oss några späda kokospalmer som bara var ett år gamla. De här har mitt barnbarn planterat, sa han och log stort! Han berättade stolt om sina barn och barnbarn. Barnen var alla välutbildade. Några bodde på Tahiti, andra i Frankrike. Ingen av dem fanns kvar på ön som sakta håller på att avfolkas. På Kauehi liksom på många andra mindre öar går barnen i skola tills de är runt 10 år gamla. För att fortsätta sin utbildning (secondary school) måste de inkvarteras hos någon familj i exempelvis Tahiti. Känner man ingen familj barnen kan få bo hos, måste kanske föräldrarna också flytta dit och söka bostad och försörjning. Unga polynesier väljer också att läsa vidare på universitet i Frankrike och det kan vara svårt att motivera sig att flytta tillbaka till ön där försörjningsmöjligheterna är sämre. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efter den lilla sightseeingen gav Hiti oss två späda kokosnötter att ta med på båten och uppmanade oss att dricka vattnet från dem inom en vecka eftersom de annars skulle hinna bli dåliga av att skakas runt på båten. Han gav oss råd om hur vi skulle navigera in i Fakarava, vår nästa destination. När vi frågade om han visste tiderna för hög- och lågvatten det närmste dygnet sa han att han numera bara gick efter vad han lärt av sin morfar. När månen stod som högst på sin bana så var det högvatten. Sedan kan man räkna ut resten…Vi tackade för hans gästfrihet och allt han lärt oss med en gåva tillbaka och dagen efter gav vi oss iväg till Fakarava. Vi hade studerat månens bana på kvällen och, mycket riktigt, när vi tittade i tidvattentabeller för området så stämde teorin relativt bra. Tiden för högsta punkten på månbanan råder högvatten. Lägger man till 6 timmar och 15 minuter så får man tiden för nästa lågvatten, efter ytterligare 6 timmar och 15 minuter kommer nästa högvatten o s v. Sedan är det bara att konsultera månen igen… Ingen exakt vetenskap men tillräckligt för oss att navigera efter😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efteråt läste vi också på mer om de kärnvapenprovsprängningar som Frankrike gjorde på de obebodda atollerna Moruroa och intilliggande Fangataufa. Vi mindes också hur Greenpeacefartyget Rainbow Warrior hade sänkts i samband med dessa och protesterna som uppstod världen över. Mellan åren 1966 och 1996 genomfördes över 190 kärnvapenprov på atollerna både ovan och under mark. Det har senare visat sig att det fick förödande konsekvenser för både djur och växtliv och, inte minst, alla boende på öarna och de militärer som deltog i olika uppdrag i samband med sprängningarna. Främst har fallen av sköldkörtelcancer blivit många fler men frekvensen av andra cancerformer har också ökat liksom missbildningar hos nyfödda, fosterskador m m sedan provsprängningarna genomfördes och hela Polynesien har drabbats på olika sätt eftersom vindarna och vattenströmmar fört med sig radioaktiva partiklar. Fortfarande kan det vara svårt att få ersättning av franska staten även om regelverket förändrats något genom åren i takt med att man kunnat ta fram fler bevis för skador knutna till sprängningarna. Frankrike var ingalunda det enda land som genomfört den här typen av sprängningar. USA, Storbritannien, Sovjet/Ryssland och Kina har också genomfört provsprängningar, för att nämna några. Dessa har också nästan alltid skett i ockuperade områden där ursprungsbefolkningen drabbats….</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Seglingen till Fakarava, där vi nu befinner oss, tog nästan sex timmar. Ön är den näst största i Tuamotu och ingår i ett av UNESCO:s biosfärområden. Atollen och har två in-/utlopp. Vi kom in genom det (enormt stora) norra inloppet, helt oproblematiskt. Även i denna atoll är det den norra delen som är bebodd med den största byn Rotoava. Strax utanför Rotoava låg ett femtiotal segelbåtar ankrade. När vi kom fram letade vi upp en ledig plats att ankra på och provade, för första gången, att kroka fast bojar längs ankarkättingen för att inte skada eller fastna vid korallerna på botten. Djupet var dock så pass stort att det troligen inte växte några koraller där men vi övade ändå. Vi var lite oroliga för att om kättingen lättar från botten så kanske ankaret inte skulle sätta sig ordentligt men vi har nu legat här i fyra dygn utan att dragga så det verkar fungera. 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava visade sig vara mycket mer turistinriktat än lilla Kauehi och påminde oss mer om Nuku Hiva med stora kryssningsfartyg som kommer in och lastar av passagerare i land för en dags upplevelser innan de åter går ombord för vidare färd till nästa ö. Hantverksbutiker, mataffärer och restauranger håller öppet och taxibilar ordnar med transporter och små exkursioner. Det gäller att ta vara på de timmar som turisterna är i land!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Atollen är så stor att det ryms mycket liv i den stora lagunen som olika hajarter, sköldpaddor, rockor, mantor etc. T o m delfiner skall finnas här! Atmosfären är lugn och avslappnad och vi blev hjärtligt välkomnade av personalen på borgmästarens kansli när vi gick in för att betala turist- och sopavgiften.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I lagunens grundare delar är vattnet turkosblått och sanden kritvit. För den som gillar sol, bad och vita stränder är detta rena paradiset! Små boomies syns här och var i vattnet som man får kryssa emellan när man åker in till land med dingen. Vi tog oss tid att snorkla runt ett rev som låg nära båten och fick se massor av revfiskar och vackra koraller. Dock var tyvärr merparten av korallerna i dåligt skick och alldeles grå.  Vi har även sett svartfenad revhaj, sköterskehaj och stora vattensköldpaddor. Dessutom ser det ut som att vi fått med oss tre sugfiskar från Kauhei som troligen liftat med oss genom att sitta under Anastacias skrov. Vi hade matat dem med små brödbitar i Kauehi och blev förvånade när samma fiskar dök upp igen så fort vi ankrat i Fakarava. De ser lustiga ut med en stor sugplatta på huvudet… Självklart fick de några brödsmulor här också. Baguetter, såklart. Det är ju franska öar! 😁.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Fakarava är kanske mest känt för sina pärlodlingar och det var något vi gärna ville få lära oss mer om. Man kan se odlingarnas bojar flyta i vattnet längre ut i lagunen. Vi bokade en liten visning på Les Perles D'Havaiki. Guiden visade hela processen, från det att man kirurgiskt opererar in en liten minipärla av snäckskal i ostronets mage till hur man plockar ut en färdig pärla efter att ostronet fått växa till sig i ungefär två år. Den färdiga pärlan skall sedan tvättas och klassificeras efter färg storlek form etc. I Polynesien odlas främst de svarta pärlorna som har en speciell lyster. Hela processen kräver rena vatten och bra miljö för att ostronen skall trivas. Man kan låta ett ostron producera flera pärlor efter varandra tills det blivit för gammalt. I de fall ostronet inte kan användas längre öppnas det helt och köttet (muskeln) säljs till restauranger. Av skalen görs smycken och andra konstverk då även dessa har en vacker lyster. Som avslut på visningen fick vi välja ut varsitt ostron som s a s var färdigt att skörda och ta med oss pärlan som bildats i djuret. Nu förstår vi vilken komplicerad process pärlodling innebär med många steg som kräver hantverksskicklighet och involverar flera olika yrkesgrupper.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Nu skall vi strax ge oss av igen. Det blir inte fler atoller för vår del utan nu väntar två dygns segling till Tahiti där vi också väntar besök av son med kompis.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Kauehi</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696" loading="lazy" data-original-width="728" data-original-height="695" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f/userfiles/Tuamotus/Kauehi_GoogleMaps.png?1741418696" width="150" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250302_095143.jpg?1741420108?1741420108" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250228_122719.jpg?1741420108?1741420108" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_114649.jpg?1741420107?1741420107" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250301_113836.jpg?1741420107?1741420107" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Fakarava</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675" loading="lazy" data-original-width="761" data-original-height="778" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/Fakarava_GoogleMaps.png?1741419675?1741419675" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103033.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250306_103212.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_082144.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="2250" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_082144.jpg?1741420263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_082144.jpg?1741420263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_082144.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_082144.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_082144.jpg?1741420263 320w," 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2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250305_104039.jpg?1741420263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250305_104039.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250305_104039.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250305_104039.jpg?1741420263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250305_104039.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_083156.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_083156.jpg?1741420263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_083156.jpg?1741420263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_083156.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_083156.jpg?1741420263 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srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_094058.jpg?1741420263 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_094058.jpg?1741420263 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_094058.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_094058.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_094058.jpg?1741420263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_094058.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_122644.jpg?1741420263" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_122644.jpg?1741420263 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_122644.jpg?1741420263 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_122644.jpg?1741420263 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Tuamotus/20250307_122644.jpg?1741420263?1741420263" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p> Fri, 07 Mar 2025 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/march-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-tuamotus /blog/march-2025/french-polynesia-and-the-tuamotus French Polynesia, Nuku Hiva and the Marquesas Malin <div> <p class="MsoNormal">Polynesia (meaning roughly the many islands) is a large cultural and geographical region in the Pacific Ocean consisting of a variety of islands, archipelagos and nations where the people share the same origin and speak one of the many Polynesian languages. Polynesia is bordered by Hawaii (to the north), New Zealand (to the southwest) and Easter Island (to the southeast). The area is sometimes referred to as the Polynesian Triangle.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">French Polynesia is part of Polynesia and is almost as large as Europe and consists of 118 islands and atolls, of which 67 are inhabited. The islands are divided into different archipelagos; Marquesas Islands, Tuamotu Archipelago, Society Islands, Gambier Islands and Austral Islands. There are long distances between the archipelagos with the Gambier Islands and Austral Islands being the southernmost. We will probably not be able to visit these two southern archipelagos. Further north, from east to west lie the Marquesas, Tuamotu and Society Islands, where Tahiti with its capital Papeete is perhaps the best known. We plan to visit a few islands on each of these archipelagos before heading further west to other Polynesian islands/nations.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The islands in French Polynesia have all been formed from volcanoes and the youngest are about 1-5 million years old, such as the islands in the Marquesas. The oldest islands are in the Austral Islands and Tuamotu and are around 50 million years old. The oldest islands are no longer real islands, but millions of years of erosion have transformed them into atolls where only some parts protrude from the sea surface.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The islands in French Polynesia were first settled by Austronesian-speaking Polynesians, who probably originated from Southeast Asia (Taiwan-Philippines) and migrated east via Samoa and Tonga. This migration was part of the great Polynesian expansion across the Pacific. In French Polynesia, it began in the Marquesas a few hundred years BC and the last islands colonized by Polynesians are believed to have been the Gambier Islands, which also became the islands from which a group of inhabitants probably emigrated and continued the long journey to Easter Island and later Hawaii, which began to be populated around the 11th and 13th centuries AD. A prerequisite for this strong expansion, despite the great distances in the Pacific Ocean, was the sophisticated navigational skills that the Polynesians had developed. They navigated with the help of stars, ocean currents and bird migration patterns. They used the characteristic wooden canoes with an outrigger (additional hull) attached to one side of the canoe. These canoes were very stable and could be both paddled and sailed. Today, the same type of canoe is still used, but made of more modern materials.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The first time Europeans came into contact with the islands was in the 16th century when the Portuguese and Spaniards noted that the islands existed but they probably had little contact with the inhabitants. In 1767, the British Samuel Wallis landed on Tahiti and declared the island British. Protestantism was then introduced to the island. The French eventually took over Tahiti after disputes and battles with the British and the population of the islands under the then Polynesian regent Queen Pomare IV. In the early 20th century, all five island groups belonged to France and Catholicism became the official religion. Today, French Polynesia has more autonomy but is still considered one of France's so-called overseas collectivity where France retains control over defense, foreign policy, justice and law enforcement and currency/economy (the CFP franc is tied to the euro). French Polynesia now controls its own laws, economy, budget, health, education (partially) and internal security. From what we understand, there no longer seems to be majority support among the population on the islands for complete independence from France, but instead they are trying to make better use of their own old culture and have, with the help of historians and archaeologists, begun to rediscover and embrace parts of it, such as dances, crafts and food traditions.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The Polynesian indigenous culture and its traditions vary between the islands but have a common core. Before European colonization, the population was organized into hierarchical chiefdoms ruled by<em> Ari’i</em> (chiefs). Below the chiefs there were several different social classes and the lowest were the slaves who were often convicted criminals or captured enemies. The Polynesians could build impressive structures such as <em>marae </em> which were sacred temples for religious and social purposes. They lived on what the sea could provide and cultivated and planted many different crops such as breadfruit and fruit trees of various kinds which were harvested and stored in various ways to last longer than the harvest season. Fermentation was used as a method. For example, <em>mahi </em>or <em>pōpoi </em>as it is also called was made. It is breadfruit that has been mashed and left to lie in a low-oxygen environment in a leaf-lined pit where it eventually fermented (by lactic acid bacteria). Mahi could be stored for several years and is said to be both nutritious and healthy. When the Polynesians colonized new islands, they brought with them many of the important fruits and seeds and some domesticated animals such as pigs and dogs that they needed to survive on the previously uninhabited islands.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The Polynesians were very trade-oriented but were also warlike and fights between the islands/kingdoms occurred. They practiced a complex polytheistic religion that was intertwined with daily life and social structure. Their spiritual beliefs revolved around <em>atua </em> (gods), ancestors, <em>mana </em>(spiritual power) and <em>tapu </em>(sacred restrictions). The word taboo comes from the Polynesian word tapu.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Mana was a supernatural force that existed not only in all living things but also inanimate things such as objects and places. Chiefs and priests had strong mana, which gave them divine authority. Women's mana was usually greater than men's because they could give bearth (give life). Losing mana, through defeat in battle or breaking a tapu, resulted in dishonor and loss of status. For example, it was tapu for a woman to step in a canoe because her mana was much more powerful than that of the canoe and the canoe would lose its power. This was especially important to consider when the canoes were to be used in battle. Similarly, it could be tapu to step over a chief's shadow if one was lower in rank. Serious violations of a tapu could sometimes be punished by death.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Polynesians believed in a balance of masculine and feminine energies, rather than fixed gender roles based on physical appearance, and some myths describe gods or spirits who change sex or are androgynous. Mana was therefore not strictly tied to biological sex, but rather one's role in society. French Polynesia, like other parts of Polynesia, had a recognized "third sex" known as <em>māhū</em>. These were people who embodied both male and female characteristics. They were biological males who took on female gender roles, including clothing, speech, and occupations. In some cases, there were also female māhū who took on male roles. Māhū had several important roles in society. They could often be priests, healers, teachers or artists, specialized in oral traditions, dance forms and were responsible for the care of children and the elderly. They were seen as guardians of knowledge, and were a kind of cultural bearer of information about different lineages, old stories and religious customs that they passed on between generations. Chiefs could turn to a māhū for advice before important decisions. After European colonization and the introduction of Christianity, māhū were seen as an abomination and Western gender roles were introduced and many māhū were subjected to social oppression and avoided showing their identity. Today, however, māhū are still present in Polynesian and Hawaiian culture and are more accepted, although their role has evolved and adapted to today's way of life. Many today work in various service professions, for example.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The Polynesians were also known for their <em>tikis</em>, human-like anthropomorphic figures carved from stone, wood or bone. According to Polynesian mythology, the tiki is sometimes considered to be the first human created by the gods, but interpretations vary between the different island groups. In the Marquesas, tikis primarily represent ancestors and protective spirits. They were often designed as half human and half animal or God with enlarged heads and eyes. One interpretation of the large eyes (which almost look like glasses) is that through the eyes one comes into contact with the spirit world. Tikis are also often connected to spiritual protection, strength and guidance.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We have now been anchored for just over two weeks outside the capital Taiohae on the island of Nuku Hiva, which is also the main island of the Marquesas. As soon as the hurricane season (cyclone season) ends in April, the actual tourist season begins and many boats and tourists come to the islands. We are early in the season so there is plenty of space in the bay and few tourists on the island, except when the cruise ships dock, when Taiohae is packed with people for a day. The lady in the tourist office next to the port has all the information of when the cruise ships arrive and makes sure to book the local ensemble of dancers and drummers who have their shows for the fascinated cruise tourists. The trade in crafts, fruit and vegetables is flourishing and the small local cafes are full. It is understandable that tourists are an important source of income for the islands.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The clearance process was painless. We rang the doorbell of the French gendarmes and even though we arrived outside office hours, they received us and the procedure was completed in 10 minutes. We had prepared ourselves by filling in our details digitally in a system used on the islands and had our passports and boat papers with us. As EU citizens, the rules for visiting and staying in French Polynesia are incredibly favorable.” This is how easy it should be to get to France. Welcome!”, one of the gendarmes said in broken English. Or, to be more precise. The guy started speaking in English but as soon as he noticed that we knew a little French he switched to his native language. 😊After customs we took out some cash, got ourselves a local SIM card and topped up with data. Finally connected again!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Nuku Hiva is a very beautiful island with high mountain peaks and steep cliffs towards the sea with fantastic views. There are several bays with good anchorages around the island. The second highest (longest?) waterfall in the world is also said to be here. We rented a car and drove on the few roads that exist. First, we went east and came to some smaller towns with small fishing ports, shops and restaurants. The mango trees along the road were full of half-ripe fruits and we took the liberty of picking some. The island is lushly green and along the roadsides you can see pigs, horses and goats and the occasional cow wandering around freely. Roosters and chickens can be seen running around everywhere. Some horses are kept tethered and you can see fenced areas, but there are just as many animals outside as inside the enclosures.</p><p class="MsoNormal">In the small town of Hatiheu we had a fantastic meal. A stew made from goat meat and coconut milk served with cassava, fried breadfruit and rice. What we couldn't finish we then had to throw into a small stream, right next to the restaurant where two large eels appeared and feasted on the leftovers. The eels were "regulars" at the restaurant and part of the experience the restaurant is known for.</p><p class="MsoNormal">Outside Hatiheu is one of several historical remains from the time before European colonization. The place we visited is called Kamuihei and is one of the largest archaeological excavations on the island. Here there are sacred places, rebuilt houses and areas for various social purposes and we saw tikis, sacrificial pits and small pits carved into rocks similar to those we can see in rock carvings in Sweden. In addition, there were several petroglyphs on large stone slabs with depictions of animals, gods, people and symbols that are also found in the many tattoos of the Polynesians. Since the Polynesian culture was a culture that was carried by oral stories and lacked written language, interpretations are difficult to make and the meanings are said to vary somewhat between the island groups, but archaeologists believe that they almost always involve representations of gods, ancestors, travel, celestial bodies and protective symbols. There was also a gigantic banyan tree at the site that is said to be 600 years old!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The last part of our drive went west towards the airport. Now we came to higher mountain areas, deep valleys and in the distance, we could see a very long and very narrow waterfall. Instead of palm trees and fruit trees, the road was lined with pine plantations with a species of pine that originally comes from the Caribbean. The pines have been planted mainly for the sake of the wood but have, of course, also changed the conditions for the native species that lived there before.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On the beach in Taiohae almost every day we saw young guys riding back and forth on their horses. Sometimes they competed along a given distance to be first. It was impressive to see because they were riding bareback (without a saddle) at a fast gallop with only a blanket to sit on. They looked mighty proud when we wanted to take pictures. However, we never saw a girl riding. Horses now seem to be an integral part of Polynesian life but the origin of horses is somewhat unclear. The most likely is that the Europeans introduced different animals like horses, goats and cows to the islands.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The waters around the Marquesas Islands are rich in life. The local fishermen come into the harbor almost every day with fine catches of fish that they sell directly on site. The leftover fish after cleaning is thrown into the harbor to the delight of the sharks. The sharks are of the species (greater) blacktip reef shark. Not all residents in the area are delighted with the spectacle in the water when the sharks fight over the leftovers, but it is a good tourist magnet… 😊 In addition to the sharks, which are not particularly dangerous to humans, we have also seen many manta rays swimming around our boat. Unfortunately, we have not been able to get any good pictures of them and when we snorkeled in the bay and tried to film, the visibility was too poor. Hopefully there will be more opportunities. One morning we heard a terrible splash behind the boat and when we ran out onto the deck to see what had happened, we saw a sea turtle trying to free itself from the dinghy's mooring line that it had managed to wrap around its neck. After a few fruitless attempts to untie the rope, we were forced to cut it. As soon as the turtle felt it was free, it took a big, loud breath before diving into the water and disappearing. How it managed to get tangled up so strangely, we could never figure out…</p><p class="MsoNormal">On Valentine's Day we took the opportunity to have a three-course dinner at a restaurant in Taiohae where local musicians performed languid ballads. The next day we were also able to take part in a Valentine's Day party where both locals and tourists were welcome. The meal was accompanied by a show that was over an hour long and was more like a long danced story. We showed up later in the evening but still saw parts of the show. Later we were able to dance a little ourselves to deafening Polynesian popular music 😁</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In recent days, we have been stocking up on supplies at the local store and buying a souvenir in the form of a mini-tiki made of wood made by a local artist on the island.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now we are waiting out some rough weather before we can set off for the Tuamotu atolls. Since these are shallow reefs with few entrances or exits and where the currents are strong, we have to adjust to the tides so that we enter when it is slack water. We hope to be able to practice on a simpler atoll with more room for the boat to enter, before we set off to reach the Fakarava atoll where we hope to see pearl farms!</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br></p> </div> <p class="MsoNormal">Polynesien (betyder ungefär de många öarna) är en stor kulturell och geografisk region i Stilla havet bestående av en mångfald av öar, ögrupper och nationer där människorna delar samma ursprung och pratar något av de många polynesiska språken. Polynesien avgränsas av Hawaii (i norr), Nya Zeeland (i sydväst) och Påskön (i sydöst). Området benämns ibland som den polynesiska triangeln.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Franska Polynesien är en del av Polynesien och är till ytan nästan lika stort som Europa och består av 118 öar och atoller varav 67 är bebodda. Öarna är indelade i olika ögrupper; Marquesas Islands, Tuamotu Archipelago, Society Islands (Sällskapsöarna), Gambier Islands och Austral Islands. Det är långa avstånd mellan ögrupperna där Gambieröarna och Australöarna ligger längst söderut. Dessa sydligare ögrupper kommer vi troligen inte att besöka. Längre norrut, från öst till väst ligger Marquesas, Tuamotu och Sällskapsöarna där Tahiti med huvudstaden Papeete kanske är den mest kända. Någon ö på var och en av dessa ögrupper har vi tänkt besöka innan vi ger oss av längre västerut till andra Polynesiska öar/nationer.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Öarna i Franska Polynesien har alla bildats från vulkaner och de yngsta är ungefär 1-5 miljoner år gamla, som t ex öarna på Marquesas, De äldsta öarna ligger i Australöarna och Tuamotu och är runt 50 miljoner år gamla. De äldsta öarna är inga egentliga öar längre utan årmiljonernas erodering har förvandlat dem till atoller där bara vissa delar sticker upp ur havsytan.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Öarna i Franska Polynesien bosattes först av austronesisktalande polynesier, som troligen härstammade från Sydostasien (Taiwan-Filippinerna) och migrerade österut via Samoa och Tonga. Denna migration var en del av den stora polynesiska expansionen över Stilla havet. I Franska Polynesien började den vid Marquesas några hundra år f Kr och de sista öarna som koloniserades av polynesier tror man var Gambieröarna som också blev de öar där en grupp invånare förmodligen emigrerade och fortsatte den långa färden till Påskön och senare Hawaii som började befolkas runt 1000 respektive 1200-talet e Kr. En förutsättning till den starka expansionen, trots de stora avstånden i Stilla havet, var de sofistikerade navigeringsfärdigheter som Polynesierna hade utvecklat. De navigerade med hjälp av stjärnor, havsströmmar och fåglars migrationsmönster. De använde sig av de karakteristiska träkanoterna med en utriggare (extra skrov) fäst på ena sidan av kanoten. Dessa kanoter var mycket stabila och kunde både paddlas och seglas. Idag används fortfarande samma typ av kanoter men tillverkade av modernare material.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Första gången européer kom i kontakt med öarna var på 1500-talet då portugiser och spanjorer noterade att öarna fanns men de hade troligen ingen större kontakt med invånarna. 1767 landsteg britten Samuel Wallis på Tahiti och deklarerade ön som brittisk. Protestantism infördes sedan på ön. Fransmän tog så småningom över Tahiti efter dispyter och strider med britter och befolkningen på öarna under den dåvarande polynesiska regenten Drottning Pomare IV.  I början av 1900-talet tillhörde alla fem ögrupperna Frankrike och katolicismen blev den officiella religionen. Idag har Franska Polynesien mer självstyre men räknas fortfarande som ett av Frankrikes så kallade utomeuropeiska förvaltningsområden där Frankrike behåller kontrollen över försvar, utrikespolitik, rättsväsende och valuta (CFP-francen är knuten till euron). Franska Polynesien kontrollerar numera sina egna lagar, ekonomi, budget, hälsa, utbildning (delvis) och inre säkerhet. Vad vi förstått verkar det inte längre finnas majoritetsstöd hos befolkningen på öarna för fullständig självständighet från Frankrike men man försöker istället ta vara på den egna gamla kulturen bättre och har, med historikers och arkeologers hjälp, börjat återupptäcka och omfamna delar av den som exempelvis danser, hantverk och mattraditioner.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Den Polynesiska ursprungskulturen och dess traditioner varierar mellan öarna men har en gemensam kärna. Innan den europeiska koloniseringen var befolkningen organiserad i hierarkiska hövdingadömen styrda av <em>Ari’i </em>(hövdingar). Under hövdingarna fanns flera olika samhällsskikt och lägst stående var slavarna som ofta var dömda brottslingar eller tillfångatagna fiender. Polynesierna kunde bygga imponerande strukturer som <em>marae </em>som var heliga tempel för religiösa och sociala ändamål. Man levde på vad havet kunde ge samt odlade och planterade många olika grödor som exempelvis brödfrukt och fruktträd av olika slag som man skördade och lagrade på olika sätt för att vara längre än skördesäsongen. Bl a användes fermentering som en metod. T ex gjorde man <em>mahi </em>eller <em>pōpoi </em>som det också kallas. Det är brödfrukt som mosats och fått ligga syrefattigt i en lövbeklädd grop där den så småningom fermenterade (genom mjölksyrabakterier). Mahin kunde lagras i flera år och sägs vara både näringsrik och nyttig. När polynesierna koloniserade nya öar hade de med sig många av de viktiga frukter och frön och vissa tamdjur som grisar och hundar som de behövde för att överleva på de tidigare obebodda öarna.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Polynesierna idkade mycket handel men var också stridslystna och krig mellan öarna/kungadömen förekom. De utövade en komplex polyteistisk religion som var sammanflätad med det dagliga livet och den sociala strukturen. Deras andliga övertygelser kretsade kring <em>atua </em>(gudar), förfäder, <em>mana </em> (andlig kraft) och <em>tapu </em>(heliga begränsningar). Ordet tabu kommer just från polynesiskans tapu.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Mana var en övernaturlig kraft som inte bara fanns i alla levande varelser utan även döda ting som föremål och platser. Hövdingar och präster hade stark mana, vilket gav dem gudomlig auktoritet. Kvinnors mana var vanligen större än männens på grund av att de kunde föda barn (ge liv). Att förlora mana, genom nederlag i strid eller bryta en tapu, resulterade i vanära och förlust av status. T ex var det tapu för en kvinna att kliva på en kanot då hennes mana var mycket mäktigare än kanotens och kanoten s a s förlorade sin kraft. Detta var särskilt viktigt att ta hänsyn till när kanoterna skulle användas i strider. Likaså kunde det vara tapu att kliva över en hövdings skugga om man stod lägre i rang. Att allvarligt bryta mot en tapu kunde ibland bestraffas med döden.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Polynesier trodde på en balans mellan maskulina och feminina energier, snarare än bestämda könsroller beroende på hur man såg ut fysiskt och vissa myter beskriver gudar eller andar som byter kön eller är androgyna. Manan var därför inte strikt knuten till biologiskt kön, utan snarare ens roll i samhället. Franska Polynesien, liksom andra delar av Polynesien, hade ett erkänt "tredje kön" känt som <em>māhū</em>. Dessa var människor som förkroppsligade både manliga och kvinnliga egenskaper. De var biologiska män som tog på sig kvinnliga könsroller, inklusive kläder, tal och yrken. I vissa fall fanns det även kvinnliga māhū som tog på sig manliga roller. <a name="_Hlk191066362">Māhū </a>hade flera viktiga roller i samhället. Ofta kunde de vara präster, helare, lärare eller konstnärer, specialiserade på muntliga traditioner, dansformer och ansvarade för omsorg av barn och äldre. De sågs som kunskapens väktare, och var en slags kulturbärare av informationen om olika släktled, gamla berättelser och religiösa sedvänjor som de förde vidare mellan generationer. Hövdingar kunde vända sig till en māhū för att få råd inför viktiga beslut. Efter den europeiska koloniseringen och införandet av kristendom sågs Māhū som en styggelse och västerländska könsroller infördes och många māhū utsattes för socialt förtryck och undvek att visa sin identitet. Idag är dock māhū fortfarande närvarande i den polynesiska och hawaiianska kulturen och är mer accepterade, även om deras roll har utvecklats och anpassats till dagens levnadssätt. Många arbetar idag exempelvis inom olika serviceyrken.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Polynesierna var också kända för sina <em>tikis</em>, människoliknande antropomorfiska figurer, uthuggna ur sten, trä eller ben. Enligt polynesisk mytologi anses tiki ibland vara den första människan som skapats av gudarna men tolkningarna varierar på de olika ögrupperna. På Marquesas representerar tikis främst förfäder och skyddande andar. Ofta utformades de som hälften människa och hälften djur eller gud med förstorade huvuden och ögon. En tolkning av de stora ögonen (som nästan ser ut som glasögon) är att genom ögonen kommer man i kontakt med andevärlden. Tikis är ofta också kopplade till andligt skydd, styrka och vägledning.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi har nu legat för ankar i drygt två veckor utanför huvudorten Taiohae på ön Nuku Hiva som också är huvudön i Marquesas. Så fort orkansäsongen (cyklonsäsongen) är avslutad i april börjar den egentliga turistsäsongen och då kommer många båtar och turister till öarna. Vi är tidigt ute på säsongen så det är gott om plats i viken och få turister på ön, förutom när kryssningsfartygen lägger till för då kryllar det av folk Taiohae under en dag. Damen i turistbyrån intill hamnen har full koll på när kryssningsfartygen kommer och ser till att boka den lokala ensemblen av dansare och trumslagare som har sina uppvisningar inför hänförda kryssningsturister. Kommersen med hantverk, frukt och grönt blommar upp och de små lokala caféerna fylls. Man förstår att turisterna utgör en viktig inkomstkälla för öarna.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Inklareringen gick smärtfritt. Vi ringde på dörren hos de franska gendarmerna och fast vi kom utanför kontorstid tog de emot oss och proceduren var klar på 10 minuter. Vi hade förberett oss genom att fylla i våra uppgifter digitalt i ett system som används på öarna och hade passen och båtpapprena med oss. Som EU-medborgare är reglerna för att besöka och stanna i Franska Polynesien otroligt förmånliga.” Så här enkelt skall det vara att komma till Frankrike. Välkomna!”, sa en av gendarmerna på knagglig engelska. Eller, rättare sagt. Killen började prata på engelska men så fort han konstaterade att vi kunde lite franska gick han över till sitt modersmål. 😊Efter inklareringen tog vi ut lite kontanter, skaffade oss ett lokalt sim-kort och fyllde på med data. Äntligen uppkopplade igen!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Nuku Hiva är en väldigt vacker ö med höga bergstoppar och branta stup mot havet med fantastiska vyer. Det finns flera vikar med bra ankringsplatser runt ön. Här lär också den näst högsta (längsta?) vattenfallet i världen finnas. Vi hyrde en bil och körde på de få vägarna som finns. Först åkte vi österut och kom till några mindre orter med små fiskehamnar, affärer och restauranger. Mangoträden längs vägen dignade av halvmogna frukter och vi tog oss friheten att plocka några. Ön är frodigt grön och vid vägkanterna kan man se grisar, hästar och getter och en och annan ko vandra runt fritt. Tuppar och hönor syns sprätta överallt. Vissa hästar hålls tjudrade och man ser inhägnade områden men det går lika många djur utanför som innanför hägnen.</p><p class="MsoNormal">På den lilla orten Hatiheu åt vi en fantastiskt god måltid. En gryta gjord på getkött och kokosmjölk serverat med kassava, friterad brödfrukt samt ris. Det vi inte orkade äta upp fick vi sedan slänga i en liten bäck, precis intill restaurangen där det dök upp två stora ålar som kalasade på resterna. Ålarna var ”stammisar” på restaurangen och en del av upplevelsen restaurangen är känd för.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Utanför Hatiheu finns en av flera historiska lämningar från tiden innan européernas kolonisering. Platsen vi besökte heter Kamuihei och är en av de största arkeologiska utgrävningarna på ön. Här finns heliga platser, återuppbyggda hus och ytor för olika sociala ändamål och vi såg tikis, offergropar och skålgropar uthuggna i stenar liknande dem vi kan se på hällristningar i Sverige. Dessutom fanns flera petroglyfer på stora stenhällar med avbildningar av djur, gudar, människor och symboler som också återfinns i polynesiernas många tatueringar. Eftersom den polynesiska kulturen var en kultur som bars av muntliga berättelser och saknade skriftspråk är tolkningar svåra att göra och betydelserna sägs variera något mellan ögrupperna men arkeologerna menar att det nästan alltid handlar om representationer av gudar, förfäder, resor, himlakroppar och skyddssymboler. På platsen fanns också ett gigantiskt banjanträd som påstås vara 600 år gammalt!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Sista delen av vår bilfärd gick västerut mot flygplatsen. Nu kom vi till högre bergsområden, djupa dalgångar och på håll kunde vi se en mycket långt och väldigt smalt vattenfall. Istället för palmer och fruktträd kantades vägen av tallplanteringar med en art av tall som ursprungligen kommer från Karibien. Tallarna har främst planterats för virkets skull men har, såklart, också förändrat villkoren för de inhemska arterna som levde där tidigare.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">På stranden i Taiohae såg vi nästan varje dag unga killar som red fram och tillbaka på sina hästar. Ibland tävlade de längs en given sträcka om att komma först. Det var imponerande att se eftersom de red barbacka (utan sadel) i snabb galopp med endast en filt att sitta på. De såg mäkta stolta ut när vi ville ta kort. Vi såg dock aldrig någon tjej rida. Hästarna verkar numera vara en integrerad del av polynesiernas liv men hästarnas ursprung är något oklart. Det troligaste är att européerna införde flera djur som hästar, getter och kor till öarna.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vattnen kring öarna i Marquesas är rika på liv. De lokala fiskarna kommer in till hamnen nästan varje dag med fina fiskfångster som de säljer direkt på plats. Fiskresterna efter rensningen kastas i hamnen till hajarnas förtjusning. Hajarna är av arten större svartfenad revhaj. Inte alla boende i området är förtjusta över spektaklet i vattnet när hajarna slåss om resterna men det utgör en bra turistmagnet… 😊 Förutom hajarna, som trots allt inte är särskilt farliga för människor, har vi också sett många mantor simma runt vår båt. Tyvärr har det inte gått att få några bra bilder på dem och när vi snorklade i viken och försökte filma var sikten för dålig. Förhoppningsvis kommer fler tillfällen. En morgon hörde vi ett fasligt plaskade bakom båten och när vi sprang ut på däck ut för att se vad som hänt såg vi en havssköldpadda som försökte komma loss från dingens förtöjningslina som den lyckats linda runt halsen. Efter några fruktlösa försök att vrida loss linan blev vi tvungna att kapa den. Så fort sköldpaddan kände att den var fri tog den ett stort och ljudligt andetag innan den dök ner i vattnet och försvann. Hur den lyckats trassla in sig så konstigt kunde vi dock aldrig lista ut…</p><p class="MsoNormal">På alla hjärtans dag passade vi på att äta en trerätters middag på en restaurang i Taiohae där lokala musiker framförde smäktande ballader. Dagen efter kunde vi också ta del av en alla hjärtans dag-fest där både lokalbor och turister var välkomna. Till maten framfördes en show som var över en timme lång och var mer som en dansad lång berättelse. Vi dök upp senare på kvällen men såg ändå delar av uppvisningen. senare kunde vi själva dansa lite till öronbedövande polyneisisk populärmusik 😁 </p> <p class="MsoNormal">De senaste dagarna har vi provianterat lite i den lokala affären och köpt en souvenir i form av en mini-tiki i trä gjord av en lokal konstnär på ön.</p> <p>Nu väntar vi ut lite oroligt väder innan vi kan ge oss av till atollerna i Tuamotu. Eftersom det rör sig om grunda rev med få in- eller utgångar och där strömmarna är starka måste vi passa tidvattentiderna så att vi kommer in när det är slack. Vi hoppas kunna träna på en enklare atoll med större utrymme för båten att komma in, innan vi ger oss på att nå atollen Fakarava där vi hoppas kunna få se pärlodlingar!</p><p><br></p><p><em>Show for tourists</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ezxgysC0OJI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><p><em>Different tikis. Some old and some new</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153642.jpg?1740271342 320w," 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2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_152953.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250205_153734.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094639.jpg?1740271343?1740271343" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_094725.jpg?1740271343?1740271343" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095118.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_095443.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111618.jpg?1740271343?1740271343" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_111947.jpg?1740271342?1740271342" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Views from land</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_093308.jpg?1740271599?1740271599" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_111212.jpg?1740271599?1740271599" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_102837.jpg?1740271599?1740271599" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Animals pasturing freely</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_154500.jpg?1740271748?1740271748" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WYwB6cWdUCQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><p><em>Hatiheu. eels feasting on leftovers</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7jH2Oq1laO4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><em>Kamuihei arheological site</em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114849.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120000.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114332.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_114640.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120127.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120009.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120143.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p> <br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121701.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_120942.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_121804.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123052.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250212_123207.jpg?1740271996?1740271996" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Horse riding</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WBR_pHo89Bw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><em>Sharks at the harbour</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IQW7ruvLkCk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><em>Polynesian Traditional Canoes </em></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250206_164107.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250221_163610.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250220_171206.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250210_100248.jpg?1740290992?1740290992" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p><em>Valentine's Day (Malin WAS happy!)</em></p><p> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192021.jpg?1740291240?1740291240" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3024" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_194632.jpg?1740291240?1740291240" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Nuku%20Hiva/20250214_192014.jpg?1740291240?1740291240" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ez_m9Hdbaeg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br> Sat, 22 Feb 2025 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/february-2025/french-polynesia-nuku-hiva-and-the-marquesas /blog/february-2025/french-polynesia-nuku-hiva-and-the-marquesas Pacific crossing Malin <div> <p class="MsoNormal">The entire 3100 nautical miles crossing from Galapagos to French Polynesia took us just under 22 days to complete. We had favorable winds for most of the crossing as well as a westerly current of about 1 knot. Despite the fact that the weather files we downloaded every day recommended other routes, we were able to maintain a fairly straight course towards our destination, the island of Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas archipelago. The average speed we maintained was almost 6 knots, which can be considered a good average speed for Anastacia.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On all longer crossings, we write down our position every few hours and plot it on a paper chart as part of “dead reckoning”. The data we obtained showed that on some days we maintained a good speed and covered 170 nautical miles/day with an average speed of over 7 knots. One day we had almost no wind at all and did 75 nautical miles in a whole day. Then we took the opportunity to swim holding on to a rope behind the boat. A wonderful experience to get a proper clean! 😊. Then we also discovered how much growth Anastacia had on her hull. A lot of gooseneck barnacles had gotten stuck under her… That means more hull cleaning in the future for us…😒</p> <p class="MsoNormal">During most of the sailing we were able to use our downwind sail (Blue water runner) either fully on both sides of the boat (goose wing) or double-folded as a large gennaker. The experience from the Atlantic crossing, where the halyard was chafed in the mast, had taught us the importance of sewing in extra chafing protection in the halyard where the wear was the greatest and also being careful to, at regular intervals, change the positions of both halyard and sheet to avoid too much chafing at the same spot. It paid off and despite the hundreds of hours the sail was up, nothing serious happened. The only thing that occurred was that a small line in the halyard fastening broke one night, but we were able to quickly fix that by hauling down the sail and securing it with a new piece of rope. Our third crew member, the wind rudder, had to work non-stop and had done its job brilliantly. We are still amazed by this mechanical marvel that steers the boat after the wind with such elegance. The autopilot has been allowed to rest during the entire trip, which also contributed to low power consumption. We are also a little proud that we have not had to use the engine for anything other than sporadically charging the boat's batteries and running the water maker. We have really been able to sail the whole time! 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We have also taken the opportunity to practice the so called heave to, which we have never done before with Anastacia. It required a little trimming of the sail and rudder until we could reduce the speed from 7 to 0.8 knots in relatively high waves. Now we have agreed that we will practice heave to until both of us can solve it on our own. It can be important to slow down the boat in rough weather or emergencies.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">At regular intervals, we have had text contact with family via Iridium Go (satellite phone) and the crew of the Swedish boat S/Y Kerpa who also sailed to the Marquesas but started the crossing from Panama. Being without internet for so long was a challenge for us at the beginning but something we also got used to relatively quickly and eventually didn't miss at all…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The voyage has otherwise been quite uneventful. We created routines to be able to get through the days. We ate all meals together and made sure they ended up between our four-hour watch shifts. The waves were sometimes big and caused the boat to roll a lot. Sleeping was sometimes a challenge and we had to help each other give each other extra sleep time when possible. We have done daily inspection rounds of the boat to check the ropes, mast, boom and sails. We have devoted ourselves to cooking in a kitchenette, where just about everything is moving all the time and, at regular intervals, baked bread, made yogurt, etc. We have spent time on maintenance, such as renovating the chafing protections for the ropes and stays. We have read books, learned a little more about sea weather and navigation with a sextant. At night we could observe the starry sky of the southern hemisphere where only a few stars and constellations were familiar to us. The North Star had disappeared below the northern horizon and the guidance for the compass directions was replaced instead by the constellation of the Southern Cross to the south. The moon appeared to lie like a small smiley in the sky when it was new. We noted that at no time during the voyage did we see any airplanes in the sky, nor have we seen any other boats. We have seen storm-petrels, however, almost every day. It is incredible that these birds can fly out to sea when the nearest landmass is 1,500 nautical miles away! We have looked in vain for whales. However, we were able to see large schools of dolphins in the distance, a few days after we left the Galapagos. They jumped several meters into the air before landing with a thunderous splash! A real spectacle! Christer caught two tunas (Skipjack tuna). They were enough for a week's dinner for the two of us, but after that there was a fishing ban on Anastacia! Sometimes you can have too much of a good thing! 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now, after the longest sailing we have ever done, we have finally reached land and are anchored outside the village of Taiohae on the main island of Nuku Hiva. We celebrated with a beer and some chips in the cockpit. A bit festive as there is an absolute ban on alcohol on the boat while sailing… After an uncomplicated clearance at the French gendarmerie on the island, we went to bed and slept for over 12 hours! Now a few months of exploring the different island in Polynesia awaits 😊</p><p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~</p> </div> <p class="MsoNormal">Hela överfarten på 3100 sjömil från Galapagos till Franska Polynesien tog oss knappt 22 dygn att genomföra. Vi hade gynnsamma vindar den största delen av överfarten liksom medström med ca 1 knops fart. Trots att väderfilerna vi laddade ner varje dag rekommenderade andra rutter kunde vi hålla en någorlunda rak kurs mot målet, ön Nuku Hiva i ögruppen Marquesas. Snittfarten vi höll var nästan 6 knop vilket får anses vara en bra medelfart för Anastacia.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vid alla längre överfarter skriver vi upp vår position med några timmars mellanrum och plottar ut på ett papperssjökort som en del i ”dead reckoning”. Den data vi fick fram visade att vi vissa dygn höll god fart och tillryggalade 170 nautiska mil/dygn med en snittfart på över 7 knop. En dag hade vi nästan ingen vind alls och gjorde 75 nautiska mil på ett helt dygn. Då passade vi på att bada hållandes i ett rep efter båten. En underbar upplevelse att få bli ordentligt ren! 😊. Då upptäckte vi också så mycket påväxt Anastacia hade fått på sin botten. En massa s k långhalsar (Gooseneck barnacles) hade fastnat under henne… Det innebär mer bottenskrapning framöver för vår del…😒</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Under större delen av seglingen kunde vi använda vårt medvindssegel (Blue water runner) Antingen fullt ut på båda sidor om båten (goose wing) eller dubbelvikt som en stor gennaker. Erfarenheterna från Atlantöverfarten, där fallet skavts sönder i masten, hade lärt oss vikten av att sy in extra skavskydd i fallet där nötningen var som störst och dessutom vara noga med att, med jämna mellanrum, ändra på positionerna för både fall och skot för att undvika för stort skav på samma punkt. Det betalade sig och trots de hundratals timmar seglet var uppe skedde inget allvarligt. Det enda som hände var att en liten tamp i fästet mot fallet brast en natt men det kunde vi snabbt åtgärda genom att hala ner seglet och fästa med en ny repstump. Vår tredje besättningsmedlem, vindrodret, har fått arbeta oavbrutet och skötte sitt arbete med bravur. Vi är fortfarande förundrade över detta mekaniska underverk som styr båten efter vinden med sådan elegans. Autopiloten har fått vila under hela resan vilket också bidragit till låg strömförbrukning. Lite stolta är vi också över att inte ha behövt använda motorn till annat än att sporadiskt ladda båtens batterier och köra watermakern för att göra vatten. Vi har verkligen kunnat segla hela tiden! 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi har också passat på att öva på att dreja bi, vilket vi aldrig gjort tidigare med Anastacia. Det krävde lite trimning av segel och roder tills vi kunde få ner farten från 7 till 0,8 knop i relativt höga vågor. Nu är vi överens om att vi skall träna på att dreja bi tills båda kan lösa det på egen hand. Det kan vara viktigt att få ner båtens fart vid hårt väder eller nödsituationer.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Med jämna mellanrum har vi haft sms-kontakt med familjen via Iridium Go (satellittelefon) samt besättningen på den svenska båten S/Y Kerpa som också seglade till Marquesas men startade överfarten från Panama. Att vara utan internet så länge var en utmaning för oss i början men något vi också vande oss vid relativt snabbt och till slut inte saknade alls…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Färden har i övrigt varit ganska händelsefattig. Vi skapade rutiner för att kunna få dagarna att gå. Alla måltider åt vi tillsammans och såg till att de hamnade mellan våra fyratimars vaktpass. Vågorna var tidvis stora och gjorde att båten rullade en hel del. Att sova blev ibland en utmaning och vi fick hjälpas åt att ge varandra extra sömntid när det var möjligt. Vi har gått dagliga kontrollrundor på båten för att se över tampar, mast, bom och segel. Vi har ägnat oss åt matlagning i ett pentry, där precis allting rör sig hela tiden och, med jämna mellanrum, bakat bröd, gjort yoghurt mm. Vi har ägnat tid åt underhåll, som att renovera skavskydd till tampar och stag. Vi har läst böcker, lärt oss lite mer om sjöväder och navigation med sextant. På nätterna kunde vi betrakta södra halvklotets stjärnhimmel där bara några få stjärnor och stjärnbilder var bekanta för oss. Polstjärnan hade försvunnit under norra horisonten och vägledningen för väderstrecken ersattes istället av stjärnbilden södra korset mot syd. Månen syntes liggandes som en liten smiley på himlavalvet när den var ny. Vi noterade att vi inte under någon tidpunkt på seglatsen sett några flygplan på himlen inte heller har vi sett några andra båtar. Stormsvalor har vi däremot sett nästan varje dag. Otroligt att dessa fåglar kan flyga ute till havs när närmaste landmassa ligger 1500 sjömil bort! Vi har förgäves spanat efter valar, utan att se några. Stora flockar med delfiner kunde vi dock beskåda på avstånd, några dygn efter att vi lämnat Galapagos. De hoppade flera meter upp i luften innan de landade med ett hejdundrande plask! Ett riktigt skådespel! Christer fick upp två tonfiskar (Skipjack tuna). De räckte till en veckas middagar för oss två men därefter rådde fiskeförbud på Anastacia! Det kan ibland bli för mycket av det goda! 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Nu, efter den längsta seglats vi någonsin gjort har vi äntligen nått land och ligger för ankar utanför byn Taiohae på huvudön Nuku Hiva. Vi firade med varsin öl och lite chips i sittbrunnen. Lite högtidslikt då det råder absolut alkoholförbud på båten under färd… Efter en okomplicerad inklarering vid det franska gendarmeriet på ön lade vi oss och sov i över 12 timmar! Nu väntar några månaders utforskande av de olika ögrupperna i Polynesien 😊</p><p><br></p><p><em>A short video from the crossing</em></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/X3kdFzUfXxc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>A happy fisherman</em> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250116_133014.jpg?1738988587?1738988587" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250122_155402.jpg?1738988587?1738988587" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Chafing protection. Before and after...</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141526.jpg?1738988762?1738988762" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Pacific/20250203_141925.jpg?1738988762?1738988762" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p> Thu, 06 Feb 2025 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/february-2025/pacific-crossing /blog/february-2025/pacific-crossing Galapagos Malin <p class="MsoNormal">The entire Galapagos archipelago and its waters belong to Ecuador. The area is considered the world's second largest marine reserve with its 133,000 km2 and is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a unique animal and plant life. The archipelago consists of 19 larger islands, 4 of which are inhabited, plus a further 110 uninhabited small islets and rocks. The islands are all volcanic islands and lie at the intersection of three continental plates. The islands belong to the northern part of the Nazca plate, on the border with the so-called Cocos plate in the north. To the west, it borders the South American continental plate. The Nazca plate is slowly drifting in a southeasterly direction towards the South American continental plate at a speed of about 5 cm per year. The movement causes new volcanoes to arise to the west and the most recent eruption on the Galapagos took place in March 2024 on the westernmost island of Fernandina. It is believed that the islands began to form five to ten million years ago and the difference in age between the islands varies, with the oldest, easternmost islands (San Cristóbal and Española) being several million years older than the westernmost (Isabela and Fernandina). The islands are believed to have been uninhabited until the first Spaniards from Panama arrived there in the 16th century. When we spoke to residents of Santa Cruz, many referred to the “Pirate age”. It turned out to be a period in the 16th and 17th centuries when many pirate ships, who made plundering raids on the mainland, were able to escape to the archipelago and, among other things, feed on the large land tortoises that were on the islands. In fact, the name Galapagos means tortoise.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Unfortunately, the first visitors to the islands brought with them other animal species that caused damage to the islands. Perhaps the worst was the rats, which multiplied rapidly and fed on the animals that were already on the islands; baby turtles, lizards, small iguanas, etc. The lack of mammals and larger predators meant that the species that lived on the islands became easy prey as they were completely fearless. To solve the rat problem, cats were eventually introduced, but they found lizards, iguanas and fearless birds being easier prey than the cautious rats. On several islands, entire species got extinguished because of this. Goats and stray dogs have also been major problems. Dogs are now only kept as pets and under control. Feral cats are still found on some islands. We ourselves saw a small wild cat chasing a lizard when we walked to a beach on Santa Cruz. In recent years, it has been possible to remove all foreign species on some islands and several projects are underway to replant many of the animals and plants that have disappeared. However, it is also known that several species have unfortunately become completely extinct.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">During the 25 days we stayed in the Galapagos, we stayed anchored in Academy Bay near the town of Puerto Ayora on the main island of Santa Cruz. It is also allowed to sail to three more islands in the archipelago, but after just a few days, we didn't think it was worth the trouble with the permits that we had to arrange with our agent for each island. At each island you have to clear in and out and pay a small national park fee in addition to the fees we had already paid to be able to sail here at all. In addition, Puerto Ayora was the port with the best facilities and where it was easiest to refuel the boat and be able to clear out of the Galapagos when leaving. It is clear that the islanders focus on tourists who come to the islands by plane to be able to service them when they ask for accommodations, food, activities, etc. Leisure boat tourists, like us, requires more work with checks of the boat and crew and less income for the islands. To get to and from the island from the boat, we could call a taxi boat. It cost a dollar per person and was well worth the small fee. You can use your own dinghy if you want, but in reality, it is not possible as there is nowhere to dock on land. In addition, the sea lions could quickly take possession of the boat for their rest when they are not catching fish in the sea outside. When we stepped ashore on Santa Cruz, it was amazing to see how fearless all the animals we encountered were. Sea lions and iguanas lay calmly sunbathing in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the city of Puerto Ayora and various birds sat completely fearlessly in the middle of visitors and preened their feathers. Tourism makes up more than 80% of the islands' economy and we quickly realized that here, as in many other places we have visited, they do everything they can to make a few pennies from visitors. The taxi boats were just one example. In Puerto Ayora, the streets were full of small travel agencies offering tickets for fast ferries between the islands, sightseeing tours on land as well as diving or snorkeling trips. Drivers hailed from their white pickup taxis and asked if we wanted a ride. There are very few areas on the islands where you can roam freely in nature or snorkel on your own. Basically, all places require you to have a guide with you. The lasting impression was like being in a gigantic zoo. However, it must be admitted that the guided tours were well organized and the guides were consistently very knowledgeable. We also made sure that they were kept busy, as inquisitive as we are…😊. Nowadays, all guides and park rangers in the Galapagos must be certified and continuously trained and also reside on one of the islands. Everyone we met was also really professional and concerned that we would have a good experience but also very clear about the rules that applied so as not to harm animals or plants in any way.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The first visit we made, was to the Charles Darwin Research Station. Here we were given a brief overview of Darwin's visit to the islands in 1835 and how his studies of life on the Galapagos played a role in his theory of natural selection. Among other things, he was able to see with his own eyes how finches had adapted over time on the different islands depending on what food they could mainly eat. The shape of the beaks had changed and looked different depending on which island the finches lived on. It was a somewhat reverent moment for us to visit places that have become so important for our understanding of how species developed on earth... The research center also breeds several of the 15 different species of large tortoises found on the different islands. They wait until the tortoises are 5 years old before they are released. Only then are the tortoises' shells hard enough to prevent them from falling victim to rats. 5 years may seem like a lot, but on the other hand, tortoises live around 150 years! The research center is very active in various educational projects for both residents and visitors. Scientists from all over the world come here to study animal and plant life on land and in the sea. Many projects are focused on the conservation of endangered species and restoration. Other projects aim to find more sustainable energy alternatives on the islands and how to tackle the problem of the enormous amount of plastic waste that flows ashore on the islands via ocean currents. Illegal fishing in the seas outside is another major problem that is being addressed, where unfortunately China stands out as being particularly active. Since the fishing boats turn off their transponders, AIS, etc., they become almost impossible to track for the few coast guard vessels that patrol the entire reserve. We ourselves have been surprised when we have sailed at night and suddenly seen lights from fishing boats appear just a few nautical miles away that we have not been able to track via our plotter (AIS). When we have sailed past them, they have turned off their lanterns again and thus made themselves completely invisible again. Now we understand what could have been the reason…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We also visited a reserve for land tortoises and saw them roaming around completely freely. They like to graze together with the cows that are kept on the island and the tortoises are so big that they sometimes force their way through the cow enclosures so that the cows also come out – much to the farmers’ annoyance. On the way there, we saw giant land tortoises crossing the roads in slow motion, where traffic had to stop to let them pass. The taxi driver told us that only park rangers are allowed to move tortoises that are on the road and drivers can be fined the equivalent of several months’ wages and even jail time if they hit a tortoise. It’s simply a matter of being patient…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We also booked a snorkeling trip to the small island of Pinzón to see more of the underwater life. Unfortunately, the visibility was poor but we managed to film some of it. In fact, where Anastacia was lying, there was also a lot of life, both in and on the water. Reef sharks, large sea turtles and iguanas swam around the boat. A lot of different seabirds, in addition to the more common frigate birds and pelicans, visited us. We saw several Blue Footed Boobys which have become a bit of a symbol of the Galapagos. Then we have a special relationship with a Galapagos heron which often returned and almost settled on the boat. We called the bird Sture but had no idea if it was a female or a male. Sture seemed to think the boat was a perfect place to stand to watch for fish. We also saw him catch a fish which turned out to be too big for him to swallow. After several failed attempts Sture released the fish into our cockpit and watched for more fish. The next day the fish was still there and had probably been desperately squirming around before it finally died so we had to clean up the entire cockpit. Christer threw the fish into the sea and Sture, who was still sitting on the railing, looked at him angrily. Apparently, he thought it was a shame to throw away the food he had spent so much energy catching… We were also soon visited by a sea lion who parked on Anastacia’s small swimming platform. We had thought that the platform was too small for sea lions, but this individual didn’t think so and stayed there all night. Unfortunately, the sea lion left a big business card behind on the platform that smelled really bad and we had to spend a good while washing everything off. After that, we placed two large ball fenders in the stern and avoided further visits.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Christmas was celebrated with traditional Christmas porridge made from plain rice and other improvised food for our small Christmas table on the boat. Of course, we had made sure to bring the obligatory Italian Panettone, bought in Panama, which we enjoyed with our coffee. New Year's Eve, which was also Christer's birthday, was first celebrated with breakfast on the boat with cream cake and a little later in the day, homemade birthday panna cotta garnished with toasted, candied coconut flakes was served, followed by gift-giving and beautiful singing performed by the lady on the boat. In the evening, we had a delicious sea-inspired dinner at a nice restaurant where we got a table on a balcony overlooking the water. Then we celebrated the old year with thousands of other Galapagos residents from both Santa Cruz and other islands + a lot of tourists who strolled the streets and bought something from the street vendors who crowded along the main street in Puerto Ayora. A small funfair with a train track for the youngest visitors had been set up at one end of the street. To our surprise, we saw that the staff, with young, enthusiastic helpers, were helping to push the train with all the carriages around the track. The children rode and screamed with delight and had fun and the parents watched. Just like at any other funfair, although this one was operated by hand without motors or electricity 😊. The city had also arranged entertainment throughout the evening and night in the square, with artists from Colombia, among others. At midnight, the cheers broke out. No fireworks or light shows but a thunderous roar from the stage and cheering people everywhere. At two o'clock we took a boat taxi back to Anastacia and heard the music from the harbor well into the morning. When we, on January 2nd, went ashore again to buy some vegetables, we were surprised that so few shops were open. Now we found out that the Ecuadorian president, Daniel Noboa, had declared a national holiday from New Year's until after the Epiphany! We had to wait with the vegetables…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The only disappointment during our visit was that we had a cold last week, which meant we had to cancel a diving trip to the island Isla Seymour Norte, just north of Santa Cruz. There we could have seen more species, including reef sharks and hammerhead sharks! However, we hope to have that chance later on in our sailing. Now we are preparing the boat for the longest crossing we will make. We have just over 3000 nautical miles to sail to the island of Nuku Hiva, in the Marquesas archipelago, French Polynesia. After a few administrative procedures, we will set off tomorrow and expect to arrive in 25-30 days. We also operate a postal service, albeit on a very small scale. On the way here, we delivered a small oil pump that the agent here had ordered from Panama. We will bring a package to Polynesia for a sailor who had to leave the Galapagos before the package from his parents arrived here. To be safe, we check the contents before we set off 😊 If we had visited the island of Floreana here in the Galapagos, we could have visited Post Office Bay founded in 1793 where former whalers could leave letters and at the same time see if there were letters addressed to the destination they were sailing to... This unofficial post office is said to still be used today by sailors.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p> <div> <p class="MsoNormal">Hela Galapagos-arkipelagen med tillhörande vatten tillhör Ecuador. Området räknas som världens näst största marina reservat med sina 133,000 km2 och är klassat som ett UNESCO världsarv med ett unikt djur- och växtliv. Arkipelagen utgörs av 19 större öar varav 4 är bebodda plus ytterligare ca 110 obebodda små holmar och klippor. Öarna är alla vulkanöar och ligger i skärningspunkten mellan tre kontinentalplattor. Öarna hör till den norra delen av Nazca-plattan, på gränsen till den så kallade Cocosplattan i norr. Västerut gränsar den till den sydamerikanska kontinentalplattan. Nazcaplattan driver långsamt i sydostlig riktning mot den sydamerikanska kontinentalplattan med en hastighet av cirka 5 cm per år. Rörelsen gör att nya vulkaner uppstår västerut och det senaste utbrottet på Galapagos skedde i mars 2024 på den västligaste ön Fernandina. Man tror att öarna började bildas fem till tio miljoner år sedan och skillnaden i ålder mellan öarna varierar, där de äldsta, östligaste öarna (San Cristóbal and Española) är flera miljoner år äldre än de västliga (Isabela och Fernandina). Öarna tros ha varit obebodda varit fram till att de första spanjorerna från Panama kom dit på 1500-talet. När vi talade med invånare på Santa Cruz så var det många som hänvisade till ”Pirate age”. Det visade sig vara en period på 1500 och 1600-talet då många piratbåtar, som gjorde plundringsräder på fastlandet, kunde fly till ögruppen och bl a livnära sig på de stora landsköldpaddorna som fanns på öarna. Namnet Galapagos betyder just sköldpadda. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">De första besökarna till öarna förde tyvärr med sig andra djurarter som ställt till skada på öarna. Värst var kanske råttorna som förökade sig snabbt och livnärde sig på de djur som redan fanns på öarna; sköldpaddsungar, ödlor, små leguaner etc. Avsaknaden av däggdjur och större rovdjur gjorde att de arter som levde på öarna blev lätta byten då de var helt orädda. För att lösa råttproblemet infördes så småningom katter som dock tyckte att ödlor, leguaner och orädda fåglar var enklare byten än de skygga råttorna. På flera öar dog hela arter ut p g av detta. Getter och lösspringande hundar har också utgjort stora problem. Hundar hålls nu endast som sällskapsdjur och under kontroll. Förvildade katter finns fortfarande på vissa öar. Vi såg själva en liten vildkatt jaga en ödla när vi promenerade till en strand på Santa Cruz. På senare år har man kunnat få bort alla främmande arter på vissa öar och flera återplanteringsprojekt pågår för att kunna återinplantera många av de djur och växter som försvunnit. Dock vet man också att flera arter tyvärr dött ut helt.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Under de 25 dagar vi stannat på Galapagos så har vi hela tiden legat för ankar i Academy Bay vid staden Puerto Ayora på huvudön Santa Cruz. Det är tillåtet att också segla till ytterligare tre öar i arkipelagen men redan efter några dagars vistelse tyckte vi inte att det var värt besväret med de tillstånd som vi hade behövt ordna med vår agent för respektive ö. Vid varje ö måste man nämligen klarera in respektive ut och betala en liten nationalparksavgift förutom de avgifter vi redan betalat för att över huvud taget få segla hit. Dessutom var Puerto Ayora den hamn med bäst faciliteter och där det enklast gick att få tanka båten och kunna klarera ut ur Galapagos vid avfärd. Det är tydligt att man fokuserar på turister som kommer via flyg till öarna och service till dem då de efterfrågar övernattningsmöjligheter, mat, aktiviteter o s v. Fritidsbåtturister, som vi, innebär mer jobb med kontroller av båt och besättning och mindre intäkter till öarna.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">För att ta oss till och från ön från båten kunde vi kalla på en taxibåt. Det kostade en dollar per person och var väl värt den lilla avgiften. Man får använda den egna dingen om man vill men i praktiken går det inte då det inte finns någonstans att lägga till på land. Dessutom kunde sjölejonen snabbt ta gummibåten i besittning för sina vilopauser när de inte fångar fisk i havet utanför.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">När vi steg iland på Santa Cruz var det fantastiskt att se hur orädda alla djur var som vi stötte på. Sjölejon och leguaner låg lugnt och solade mitt i stadsvimlet i Puerto Ayora och olika fåglar satte sig helt orädda mitt bland besökare och putsade fjädrarna. Turismen utgör mer än 80% av öarnas ekonomi och vi insåg snabbt att här, liksom på många andra ställen vi besökt, gör man allt för att kunna tjäna några slantar av besökarna. Taxibåtarna var bara ett exempel. I Puerto Ayora var gatorna fulla av små resebyråer som erbjöd biljetter till snabbfärjor mellan öarna, sightseeingturer på land liksom dyk- eller snorkelturer. Chaufförer hojtade från sina vita pickup-taxis och frågade om vi ville ha skjuts. Det finns väldigt få områden på öarna där man kan få ströva fritt i naturen eller snorkla på egen hand. I princip alla ställen kräver att man har med sig en guide. Det bestående intrycket var som att befinna sig på en gigantisk djurpark. Det måste dock erkännas att de guidade turerna var välorganiserade och guiderna var genomgående mycket kunniga. Vi såg också till att de fick fullt upp att göra, så frågvisa som vi är…😊. Numera skall alla guider och parkvakter på Galapagos vara certifierade och vidareutbildas kontinuerligt och dessutom vara bosatta på någon av öarna. Alla vi mötte var också verkligen seriösa och måna om att vi skulle få en bra upplevelse men också mycket tydliga med vilka regler som gällde för att inte på något sätt skada djur eller växter. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Första besöket blev på Charles Darwin Research Station, Här fick vi en kort genomgång av Darwins besök på öarna 1835 och hur hans studier av livet Galapagos spelat en roll för hans teori om det naturliga urvalet. Bl a kunde han med egna ögon se hur en finkar med tiden hade anpassat sig på de olika öarna beroende på vilken föda de främst kunde äta. Näbbarnas form hade ändrats och såg olika ut beroende på vilken ö finkarna levde på. Det blev en lite andäktig stund för oss att få besöka platser som fått sådan betydelse för vår förståelse av hur arter uppkommit på jorden… På forskningscentret bedrivs även uppfödning av flera av de totalt 15 olika arter av stora landsköldpaddor som finns på de olika öarna. Man väntar tills sköldpaddorna är 5 år gamla innan de släpps ut. Först då är sköldpaddornas skal tillräckligt hårda för att de inte skall falla offer för bl a råttor. 5 år kan verka mycket men å andra sidan blir landsköldpaddor runt 150 år gamla! Forskningscentret är väldigt aktivt bl a i olika utbildningsprojekt för både invånare och besökare. Forskare från hela världen kommer hit för att studera djur och växtliv på land och i havet. Många projekt är inriktade på bevarandet av hotade arter och restaurering. Andra projekt syftar till att hitta mer hållbara energialternativ på öarna och hur man skall angripa problemet med den enorma mängd plastskräp som via havsströmmar flyter i land på öarna. Olovligt fiske i haven utanför är ett annat stort problem man försöker adressera där tyvärr Kina sticker ut som särskilt aktiva. Eftersom fiskebåtarna stänger av sina transpondrar, AIS etc. blir de nästan omöjliga att spåra för de få kustbevakningsfartyg som patrullerar hela reservatet. Vi har själva varit förvånade när vi seglat nattetid och plötsligt sett ljus från fiskebåtar dyka upp på bara någon sjömils avstånd som vi inte kunnat spåra via vår plotter (AIS). När vi seglat förbi dem har de åter släckt lanternorna och på så sätt gjort sig helt osynliga igen. Nu förstår vi vad det kan ha berott på…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi besökte även ett reservat för landsköldpaddor och fick se dem strosa runt helt fritt. De betar gärna tillsammans med de kor som hålls på ön och sködpaddorna är så stora att de ibland forcerar igenom inhägnaderna till korna så även korna kommer ut – till böndernas förtret. På vägen dit såg vi gigantiska landsköldpaddor korsa vägarna i sakta mak, där trafiken fick stanna för att låta dem passera. Taxichauffören berättade att det bara är parkvakter som får flytta sköldpaddor som ligger i vägen och förare kan få böter motsvarande flera månadslöner och t o m fängelsestraff om de skulle köra på en sköldpadda. Det gäller helt enkelt att ha tålamod…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi bokade också en snorkeltur till den lilla ön Pinzón för att få se mer av livet under vattnet. Tyvärr var sikten dålig men vi fick filmat en del. Faktum är att där Anastacia låg vimlade det också av liv, både i och på vattnet. Revhajar, stora vattensköldpaddor och leguaner simmade runt båten. En massa olika sjöfåglar, förutom de mer vanliga fregattfåglarna och pelikanerna, besökte oss. Vi såg flera blåfotade sulor (Blue Footed Booby) som blivit lite av Galapagos symbol. Sedan har vi ett särskilt förhållande till en Galapagoshäger som ofta återkom och nästan bosatte sig på båten. Vi kallade fågeln för Sture men hade egentligen ingen aning om det var en hona eller hane. Sture verkade tycka båten var en perfekt plats att stå på för att spana på fisk. Vi såg honom också fånga en fisk som visade sig vara för stor för honom att svälja. Efter flera misslyckade försök släppte Sture fisken i vår sittbrunn och spanade efter fler fiskar. Dagen efter låg fisken kvar och hade antagligen förtvivlat sprattlat runt innan den slutligen dog så vi fick sanera hela sittbrunnen. Christer kastade i fisken i havet och Sture, som fortfarande satt på relingen, tittade surt på honom. Tydligen tyckte han att det var synd att kasta maten som han lagt så mycket energi på att fånga… Vi fick också snart besök av ett sjölejon som parkerade på Anastacias lilla badplattform. Vi hade trott att plattformen var för liten för sjölejon men det tyckte inte den här individen som låg kvar en hel natt. Tyvärr lämnade sjölejonet ett rejält visitkort efter sig på badplattformen som luktade riktigt illa och vi fick lägga en bra stund på att tvätta bort allt. Därefter placerade vi två stora kulfendrar i akterna och slapp vidare besök.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Julen firades med julgröt gjord på vanligt ris och annan improviserad mat till vårt lilla julbord på båten. Såklart hade vi sett till att få med den obligatoriska italienska Panettonen, inköpt i Panama, som vi avnjöt till kaffet. Nyår tillika Christers födelsedag firades först med frukost på båten med gräddtårta och lite senare på dagen serverades hemgjord födelsedags-pannacotta garnerad med rostade, kanderade kokosflarn följd av presentutdelning och skönsång framförd av frun på båten. På kvällen åt vi en god havsinspirerad middag på en trevlig restaurang där vi fick ett bord på en balkong med utsikt över vattnet. Sedan firade vi ut det gamla året med tusentals andra Galapagosbor från både Santa Cruz och andra öar + en massa turister som flanerade på gatorna och köpte något från gatuförsäljarna som trängdes längs huvudgatan i Puerto Ayora. Ett litet tivoli med en tågbana för de minsta besökarna hade satts upp vid ena änden av gatan. Till vår förvåning såg vi att personalen med unga, entusiastiska medhjälpare, hjälptes åt att putta tåget med alla vagnarna runt på banan. Barnen åkte och skrek förtjust och hade roligt och föräldrarna tittade på. Precis som på vilket annat tivoli som helst fast detta drevs för hand utan motorer eller elektricitet 😊. Staden hade också ordnat med underhållning under hela kvällen och natten på torget, med artister från bl a Colombia. Vid tolvslaget så bröt jublet ut. Inga fyrverkerier eller ljusshower men ett hejdundrande hålligång från scenen och jublande människor överallt. Vid tvåtiden tog vi en båttaxi tillbaks till Anastacia och hörde musiken från hamnen långt in på morgonen. När vi, den 2:e januari, åter gick i land för att köpa lite grönsaker blev vi förvånade över att så få butiker hade öppet. Nu fick vi reda på att den ecuadorianske presidenten, Daniel Noboa, hade utlyst nationell helg från nyår till efter trettonhelgen! Vi fick vänta med grönsakerna…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Enda smolket i glädjebägaren under vårt besök var att vi sista veckan legat förkylda vilket gjort att vi fått avboka en dyktur till ön Isla Seymour Norte, strax norr om Santa Cruz. Där hade vi kunnat få se fler arter av bl a revhaj och hammarhaj! Vi hoppas dock kunna få den chansen senare på vår seglats. Nu förbereder vi båten för den längsta överfarten vi kommer att göra. Vi har lite drygt 3000 sjömil att segla till ön Nuku Hiva, i ögruppen Marquesas, franska Polynesien. Efter lite administrativa procedurer, ger vi oss iväg imorgon och räknar med att vara framme om 25-30 dagar. Vi agerar dessutom postservice om än i mycket liten skala. På vägen hit levererade vi en liten oljepump som agenten här hade beställt från Panama. Till Polynesien kommer vi att ta med ett paket till en seglare som hann lämna Galapagos innan paketet från hans föräldrar hann fram hit. För säkerhets skull kontrollerar vi innehållet innan vi ger oss iväg 😊 Hade vi besökt ön Floreana här på Galapagos hade vi kunnat besöka Post Office Bay, grundad 1793, där tidigare valfångare kunde lämna brev och samtidigt se om det finns brev som var adresserade till den destination de skulle segla till… Detta inofficiella postkontor sägs användas än idag av sjöfarare.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>A heartwarming Christmas carol performed to us by youngsters from the Molas club. Molas Club promotes ecological and biodiversity conservation projects for young people in Galapagos . The performance was part of a competition and we really hope these four won the competition! ❤️</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7sN4DUsKg5M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Animal encounters at Puerto Ayora and the fish market in Santa Cruz</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241221_121712.jpg?1736821098 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1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105001.jpg?1736820950?1736820950" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20250111_110415.jpg?1736821610?1736821610" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_110302.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105335.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241223_105708.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u>Giant Tortoises</u></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_115049.jpg?1736820036 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480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241226_124424.jpg?1736820036?1736820036" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143102.jpg?1736821447?1736821447" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241222_143132.jpg?1736821447?1736821447" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal">At the beach. Santa Cruz<iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WLQlL9-BFUc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal">Under water videos. Galapagos islands<iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uFhLVkZGBDc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal"><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kWNwCqRPqzc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>At our boat</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Galapagos/20241227_221953.jpg?1736821447?1736821447" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nrCMGxZyFp4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p> </div> Tue, 14 Jan 2025 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/january-2025/galapagos /blog/january-2025/galapagos From Panama to Galapagos Malin <p class="MsoNormal">You are never so close to death on a sailboat as when you have your pants pulled down over your knees! We both experienced this fact several times during the sail to the Galapagos. It was our first real long-distance sailing after the Atlantic crossing and we had kind of forgotten how rough it can be at sea and the most critical moments are when visiting the toilet and when you have to take your sailing clothes off or on…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It may not seem like a big problem, but if you are a little tired and inattentive, you can easily go straight across the floor if you don't look up when Anastacia goes over a wave. Now we both managed fine but there were a few times it could have gone wrong. This and other similar topics were things we liked to discuss during the sail. Then you know the quality of our discussions 😊. Except of course, when Christer shared his thoughts on whether time is just a representation of the expansion of the universe. At the Big Bang, time began… If you travel at the speed of light with the expansion or against it, does time change for the traveller? Without the Internet at sea, we had to guess as best we could on our own… Time may be affected by the speed of expansion depending on where you are, but was there nothing before the Big Bang? Not even time?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In this way we passed the time by in the 10 days it took to sail the 900 nautical miles to the Galapagos. As the crow flies, it is shorter, but to avoid headwinds, we needed to take a more southerly direction along the coast of Colombia and Ecuador before we could turn further west, towards the islands. We had light winds the whole way and sailed on a tack. The first day, the mainsail's trailing edge broke against the boom, the so-called clew. It had chafed against the boom without us noticing. Now we could only sail with a reef up, which was OK but gave Anastacia a lower speed and sometimes we had to use the engine as support. We had rain and thunder at one point where we temporarily changed direction but otherwise it was a fairly uneventful but quite bumpy sail as the waves came from slightly different directions. A few seabirds followed along and hitched a ride on the boat when they got too tired.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Christer surprised me as Lucia (Swedish traditional celebration) when I was about to get off my night shift on December 13th. He showed up with a handmade Lucia crown decorated with a little Santa Claus and holding a candle in his hand serving me cofee. The next day he surprised me again! He caught a two-kilo bluefin tuna which he then prepared and served. It was enough for two dinners. What a wonderful man! ❤️</p><p class="MsoNormal">The next time there was some excitement on the boat was when we were close to passing the equator. We make sure to write down our position every few hours and plot the distance we have sailed on a paper chart. This way you can manually calculate your position (dead reckoning) if necessary, for example if the power on the boat were to go out. We soon saw that we were approaching latitude 00 degrees. This set Christer off and he wanted to immortalize the moment. This should be celebrated! After studying the chart carefully, he went over to the digital plotter and saw a blue line that matched the chart's line for the equator. When there were a few minutes left, we loaded up a bottle of Prosecco bought for the purpose and two plastic champagne glasses were found. Now we would first offer a glass to Poseidon and then the moment we crossed the equator would be immortalized with a selfie. Said and done. The sea god was appeased with a glass and we toasted solemnly and took a picture when we passed the blue line. Shouldn't we see our position? I asked. No need! Christer said confidently. He had a rock-solid grasp of the situation! It wasn't until a long time later that he realized his mistake. We were still about 80 nautical miles north of the equator (!?) and that blue line on the plotter was something completely different from an equator line. A little disappointed, we realized that there was almost a day left until we could start writing an S after the longitude measurements. The next morning, we could see on the plotter how we slowly passed the 00 line but now the Prosecco was gone and the mood was pretty bad for both of us so a screenshot on the plotter had to suffice to immortalize the event…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The last few nautical miles to the main island of Santa Cruz we had good wind but risked arriving in the dark so we had to reef and sail really slowly so as not to arrive before the morning light appeared 😊.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The same day we anchored at Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz a delegation from various authorities came together with our agent and checked the boat inside and out to make sure we hadn't brought anything illegal in terms of animals or plants + they asked us about waste management etc. on board. We were approved on all counts and received our tourist visas and were welcomed to stay at the Galapagos nature reserve. We took down the yellow Q flag and hoisted the Ecuadorian and Galapagos courtesy flags on Anastacia. Now a time of exploring the islands and the privilege of following in Darwin's footsteps awaits!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p> <div> <p class="MsoNormal">Man är aldrig så nära döden på en segelbåt som när man har byxorna nerdragna över knäna! Detta faktum fick vi båda erfara flera gånger under seglatsen till Galapagos. Det var vår första riktiga långfärdssegling efter Atlantöverfarten och vi hade liksom glömt hur det kan kränga till på havet och de mest kritiska stunderna är vid toalettbesök och vid passbyten när seglarkläderna skall av eller på…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Inget stort problem kan tyckas men är man lite trött och ouppmärksam så kan man lätt fara iväg tvärs över golvet om man inte ser upp när Anastacia far över en våg. Nu klarade vi oss båda fint men det var några gånger det kunde gått illa. Detta och andra liknande ämnen var sådant vi gärna diskuterade under seglatsen. Då vet ni nivån på diskussionerna 😊. Förutom förstås när Christer delgav sina funderingar över om tid bara är en representation över universums expansion. Vid Big Bang så började s a s tiden… Om man färdas med ljusets hastighet med expansionen eller mot den, förändras tiden för den som färdas? Utan Internet till sjöss fick vi spåna bäst vi kunde på egen hand… Tiden kanske påverkas av expansionens hastighet beroende på var man befinner sig, men fanns inget före Big Bang? Inte ens tid?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Så fördrev vi tiden de knappa 10 dagar det tog att segla de runt 900 sjömilen till Galapagos. Fågelvägen är det kortare men för att undvika motvind, behövde vi ta en sydligare riktning längs Colombias och Ecuadors kust innan vi kunde vika av mer västerut, mot öarna. Vi hade svag vind hela vägen och seglade på en kryssbog. Första dygnet brast tampen till storseglets bakkant mot bommen, det s k bomuthalet. Det hade skavt mot bommen utan att vi märkt det. Nu kunde vi bara segla med ett rev uppe vilket var OK men gav Anastacia lägre fart och ibland fick vi använda motorn som stöd. Vi fick regn och åska vid något tillfälle där vi tillfälligt byta riktning men annars en blev det en ganska händelsefattig men rätt skumpig seglats då vågorna kom från lite olika riktningar. Några sjöfåglar följde med och liftade på båten när de blev för trötta.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Christer överraskade som lucia när jag skulle gå av mitt nattpass den 13:e december. Han dök upp med egenhändigt tillverkad luciakrona prydd med en liten tomte och med ljus i handen och serverade nybryggt kaffe. Dagen därpå överraskade han igen! Han fiskade upp en tvåkilos blåfenad tonfisk som han sedan tillredde och bjöd på. Den räckte till två middagar. Vilken underbar man! ❤️</p><p class="MsoNormal">Nästa gång det blev lite liv på båten var när vi var nära att passera ekvatorn. Vi ser till att skriva upp vår position med några timmars mellanrum och plotta ut på ett papperssjökort den sträcka vi seglat. På så sätt kan man manuellt räkna ut sin position (död räkning) om det skulle behövas, t ex om strömmen på båten skulle slås ut. Vi såg snart att vi närmade oss latituden 00 grader. Det satte fart på Christer som ville föreviga ögonblicket. Detta skall firas! Efter att ha studerat sjökortet noga gick han över till den digitala plottern och fick syn på en blå linje som stämde väl överens med sjökortets linje för ekvatorn. När det var några minuter kvar så laddade vi med, en till ändamålet inköpt, flaska Prosecco och två champagneglas i plast letades fram. Nu skulle vi först skänka ett glas till Poseidon och sedan skulle tillfället vi passerade ekvatorn förevigas med en selfie. Sagt och gjort. Havsguden blidkades med ett glas och vi skålade högtidligt och tog en bild när vi passerade den blå linjen. Skall vi inte se vår position? Frågade jag. Behövs inte! Sa Christer självsäkert. Han hade stenkoll på läget! Inte förrän en lång stund senare insåg han sitt misstag. Vi var fortfarande ca 80 distansminuter norr om ekvatorn (!?) och det där blå strecket på plottern var något helt annat än en ekvatorlinje. Lite snopet konstaterade vi att det nästan var ett dygn kvar tills vi kunde börja skriva ett S efter longitudmätningarna. Nästa morgon kunde vi se på plottern hur vi sakta passerade 00-linjen men nu var Proseccon slut och humöret ganska uselt på oss båda så det fick duga med en skärmdump på plottern för att föreviga händelsen…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">De sista sjömilen till huvudön Santa Cruz hade vi bra vind men riskerade att komma fram i mörker så vi fick reva och segla riktigt sakta för att inte komma före morgonljuset visade sig 😊.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Samma dag som vi ankrade vid Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz kom en delegation från olika myndigheter tillsammans med vår agent och kontrollerade båten in- och utvändigt så att vi inte fått med oss något otillåtet i djur- eller växtväg + att de förhörde oss om avfallshantering m m ombord. Vi fick godkänt på alla punkter och fick våra turistvisum och välkomnades att vistas på Galapagos naturreservat. Vi tog ner den gula Q-flaggan och hissade Ecuadors och Galapagos gästflaggor på Anastacia. Nu väntar en tid av utforskade av öarna och privilegiet att få gå i Darwins fotspår!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Royal tern and juvenile Blue-footed Boobies hitchhiking</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184855.jpg?1734887322?1734887322" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_184811.jpg?1734887322?1734887322" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>A loving husband´s contributions to a happy marriage</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241213_093234.jpg?1734887382?1734887382" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241216_142215.jpg?1734887382?1734887382" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Crossing the eequatorial line - or not?</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1980" data-original-height="2640" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241218_161000.jpg?1734887427?1734887427" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427" loading="lazy" data-original-width="800" data-original-height="480" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/ScreenShot002.png?1734887427?1734887427" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>We made it!</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing to galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Sailing%20to%20galapagos/20241220_104915.jpg?1734887510?1734887510" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p> </div> Sat, 21 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/december-2024/from-panama-to-galapagos /blog/december-2024/from-panama-to-galapagos Crossing the Panama Canal Malin <p class="MsoNormal">One of the requirements to be allowed to pass through the Panama Canal is that you must have four linehandlers on board in addition to the captain. There is therefore a WhatsApp group that mediates contact between captains who are looking for linehandlers and sailors who will pass the canal themselves and want to gain some experience before their own crossing. The only requirement apart from food and accommodation during the canal passage is that you compensate their journey back to the port they started from. Through that group and our sailing friends Jodi and Magnus, we had three volunteers ready for Anastacia's crossing. Unfortunately, our third volunteer got other, more urgent obligations to take care off, in the days before departure. Via the WhatsApp group we quickly got a new contact, Charles, who turned out to have the boat on the same dock as our friends. We were lucky! Together with me (Malin) we were now full crew.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The day before the canal crossing, we were able to collect long, sturdy lines and fenders that we rented from our agent. Eight ball-fenders and four ropes barely made it into our dinghy. Add to that a Malin sitting on top and it was a miracle that the whole construction didn't fall over. Christer drove the dinghy veery slowly back to Anastacia, without losing any of the precious cargo 😊. The agent also informed us that we were booked on a two-day canal crossing starting at 3pm.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On the boat we prepared food in advance that would be enough for the two days for us and the rest of the crew and took out water bottles that we had bought in advance. Everything according to the careful instructions we received from the agent 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We lowered the Bimini to give more room to handle the lock lines aft and covered the solar panels with pads to protect them from the lines that the lock crew would throw from the lock edge and that we are expected to catch. The next morning, we called up the canal station (Cristobal Signal Station) who confirmed our position and advised that our canal Advisor would show up at 17:30. We then agreed with our linehandlers to pick them up a little later than planned. Once we picked them up there was still a long wait and not until after 18:30 did a pilot boat appear to drop off Advisor Carlos, on Anastacia. The delay was due to another boat that was also due to lock at the same time as us waiting for a crew. Unfortunately, it was now so late in the day that it had gotten dark so we didn't see much of the surroundings or the canal. However, the locks were beautifully lit. Carlos instructed Christer on how to navigate and told us that we would be tied to the outer side with another sailboat in the middle and a powerboat at the far end towards the canal wall. Once at the first lock, discussions arose between the pilots on each boat as they did not all agree on the formation. Carlos was right in the end though. We drove slowly towards the lock and then the boats were lashed together. As Anastacia was towards the middle of the lock, we never had to handle any lines from shore, but only had to keep up with the other boats. The worst were for the powerboat that had the lock wall on the starboard side and two sailboats on the port side.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">When you lock up, you always let the smaller boats lie behind the larger ships in the lock. On the way down, you do the opposite. In this way, the smaller boats are not affected so much by the turbulence in the water that occurs when the ships run their engines, combined with how the water rushes when it is let in and out of the lock. Consequently, a large freighter lay first in the lock and after it we lay in our "package" of boats. At the first lock, we also took the opportunity to eat dinner that we had prepared before. All three locks up to Lake Gatún ran without problems. On the boat, we in the crew kept an eye on the lines towards the other boat and Christer drove. Carlos supervised it all and gave directions. He was constantly in contact with the other pilots and via his mobile phone he could follow how all the boats were positioned in the canal.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Once in Lake Gatún we were soon able to lay by a giant mooring buoy and a pilot boat appeared and took Carlos back to shore. The rest of us were really tired and agreed to go to bed in order to get up at half past seven when the next Advisor would appear at half past eight in the morning. When we, the next morning, had just managed to prepare breakfast for the crew, the Advisor Hector suddenly appeared, almost an hour early! Sitting in peace and eating your breakfast was simply something to forget. Now, it was full speed again and the food had to be consumed as best we could on the way... At this point several hours of driving through the lake followed until we reached the last three locks that would carry us down towards the Pacific ​​side. This time with freighters behind us and in the last two locks we lay with the powerboat between the two sailboats. Now we finally got to try handling ropes against the lock wall. Canal workers threw thin pilot lines with a monkey fist knot at the end which we would catch and lash to the lines we had on the boat. However, once the pilot lines got going, it turned out that we had been unnecessarily careful with covering our solar panels. The staff threw them so far that they ended up on the boat next to us and the crew there was quick to throw the lines back to us. Then the canal crew pulled back the pilot line and secured the boat's line to the lock bollards. In this way, we could manage the lines completely from the boat. We had our lines against one lock wall and the other sailboat against the other wall. Now the powerboat only had to maintain a steady course as the water poured into the lock. The sluicing then ran completely undramatically and even now there was some waiting for all the boats before each lock, so we took the opportunity to have lunch when there was a break. After the last lock we concluded that these two days had been warmer and sunnier than in a long time and that it would probably have been better to have the Bimini up all the time. Now we were crazy hot, sunburned and tired, but happy that everything went well even though a lot had not gone as we had planned 😊.</p><p class="MsoNormal">After the last lock, at Balboa Harbor, we waved off all our guests and steered Anastacia towards the La Playita marina on the Pacific side, grateful to have had such a capable and pleasant crew with us. Jodi and Magnus wanted to join in order to gain some experience before taking their boat through the canal themselves. Charles had lined up as a linehandler before and already had some experience but thought it was fun to be involved once more. He will also cross the canal himself with his boat in a week or so. Many thanks to you! Many thanks also to our experienced Advisors who were both calm, educational and took no risks.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now we are in the marina and will soon clear out of Panama. We need to arrange some documents and certificates to then be able to set off on a week-long sailing trip to the Galapagos. We have reactivated our satellite phone which will update Anastacia's position on the front page of the blog every hour. The family is notified and… Pacific Ocean, here we come! 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> <br></p> <p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> <br></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Ett av kraven för att få passera Panamakanalen är att man måste ha fyra ”linehandlers” ombord förutom kaptenen. Det finns därför en WhatsApp-grupp som förmedlar kontakt mellan kaptener som söker linehandlers och seglare som själva skall passera kanalen och vill få lite erfarenhet innan den egna överfarten. Enda kravet förutom mat och husrum under kanalpassagen är att man ersätter deras resa tillbaka till den hamn man startade från. Via den gruppen och våra seglarvänner Jodi och Magnus hade vi tre volontärer redo för Anastacias överfart. Tyvärr fick vår tredje frivillige förhinder, dagarna innan avfärd. Via WhatsApp-gruppen fick vi snabbt en ny kontakt, Charles, som visade sig ha båten på samma brygga som våra vänner. Där hade vi tur! Tillsammans med mig (Malin) var vi nu fulltaliga.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Dagen innan kanalöverfarten kunde vi hämta långa, rejäla linor och fendrar som vi hyrt av vår agent. Åtta kulfendrar och fyra linor fick, med nöd och näppe, plats i vår dinge. Lägg därtill en Malin sittandes uppepå så var det ett under att inte hela ekipaget välte. Christer körde dingen vääldigt långsamt tillbaka till Anastacia, utan att tappa något av den dyrbara lasten 😊. Av agenten fick vi också besked om att vi var bokade på en tvådagars kanalöverfart med start kl 15. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">På båten lagade vi mat i förväg som skulle räcka för de två dagarna för oss och övrig besättning och tog fram vattenflaskor som vi köpt i förväg. Allt enligt de noggranna instruktioner vi fått av agenten 😊 </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi monterade ner biminin för att ge mer plats att kunna hantera slusslinorna i aktern och täckte solpanelerna med dynor för att skydda dem för de linor som slusspersonalen kastar från slusskanten och som vi förväntas fånga upp. Morgonen därpå ropade vi upp kanalstationen (Cristobal Signal Station) som bekräftade vår position och meddelade att vår kanalrådgivare/lots skulle dyka upp vid 17:30. Vi kom då överens med våra linehandlers att hämta upp dem lite senare än planerat. När vi väl hämtat dem följde ändå en lång väntan och inte förrän efter 18:30 dök en lotsbåt upp som släppte av kanalrådgivaren/lotsen Carlos, på Anastacia. Förseningen berodde på att en annan båt som också skulle slussa samtidigt med oss väntade på besättning. Tyvärr var det nu så sent på dagen att det hunnit mörkna så vi såg inte så mycket av omgivningarna eller kanalen. Slussarna var dock vackert upplysta. Carlos instruerade Christer om hur han skulle köra och berättade att vi skulle ligga ytterst i bredd med en annan segelbåt i mitten och en motorbåt längst mot kanalväggen. Väl framme vd första slussen uppstod diskussioner mellan lotsarna på respektive båt då alla inte var överens om formationen. Carlos fick dock rätt till slut. Vi körde sakta mot slussen och sedan surrades båtarna intill varandra. Eftersom Anastacia låg mot slussens mitt behövde vi aldrig hantera några linor från land utan behövde bara hänga med de andra båtarna. Värst var de för motorbåten som hade slussväggen på styrbord sida och två segelbåtar om babord.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">När man slussar uppåt så låter man alltid de mindre båtarna ligga efter de större fartygen i slussen, På vägen ner gör man tvärtom. På så sätt påverkas inte de mindre båtarna så mycket av den turbulens i vattnet som uppstår när fartygen kör sina motorer, i kombination med hur vattnet forsar när det släpps in respektive ut, ur slussen. Ett stort fraktfartyg lade sig följaktligen främst i slussen och efter den låg vi i vårt ”paket” av båtar. Vid första slussen passade vi också på att äta kvällsmat som vi förberett innan. Alla tre slussningarna upp till Gatúnsjön löpte utan problem. På båten höll vi i besättningen koll på linorna mot den andra båten och Christer körde. Carlos övervakade det hela och gav anvisningar. Han höll hela tiden kontakt med de andra lotsarna och via mobilen kunde han följa hur alla båtar låg till i kanalen. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Väl i Gatúnsjön kunde vi snart lägga oss vid en gigantisk förtöjningsboj och en lotsbåt dök upp och tog med sig Carlos tillbaka till land. Vi övriga var rejäl trötta och kom överens om att lägga oss för att stå upp vid halv sjutiden då nästa lots skulle dyka upp vid halv åtta på morgonen. När vi, nästa morgon precis hunnit ställa fram frukosten för besättningen så dyker plötsligt lotsen Hector upp, nästan en timme för tidigt! Att sitta i lugn och ro och äta sin frukost var bara att glömma, Nu var det full fart igen och maten fick intas efter bästa förmåga under färd… Nu följde flera timmars körande genom sjön till de sista tre slussarna som skulle slussa oss neråt mot Stilla havssidan. Den här gången med fraktfartyg bakom oss och i de sista två slussarna låg vi med motorbåten mellan de två segelbåtarna. Nu fick vi äntligen prova på att hantera linor mot slussväggen. Kanalanställda kastade tunna pilotlinor med en s k apnäve (knop) i änden som vi skulle fånga upp och surra fast i linorna vi hade på båten. När väl pilotlinorna kom farande visade det sig dock att vi varit onödigt försiktiga med att täcka våra solpaneler. Personalen kastade dem så långt att de hamnade på båten intill och det blev fart på besättningen där att kasta tillbaks linorna till oss. Sedan drog kanalpersonalen tillbaka pilotlinan och gjorde fast båtens lina vid slussens pållare. På så sätt kunde vi sköta linorna helt från båten. Vi hade våra linor mot ena slussväggen och den andra segelbåten mot den andra väggen. Nu behövde motorbåten bara hålla en stadig kurs när vattnet strömmade in i slussen. Slussningarna löpte sedan helt odramatiskt och även nu blev det en del väntande på att alla båtar skulle ligga rätt inför varje slussning, så vi passade på att äta lunch när det blev en paus. Efter sista slussen konstaterade vi att dessa två dagar varit varmare än på länge och att det nog hade varit bättre att ha biminin uppe hela tiden. Nu var vi tokvarma, solbrända och trötta men glada att allt gått bra trots att mycket inte hade gått som vi hade tänkt 😊.</p><p class="MsoNormal"> Efter sista slussen, vid Balboa hamn, vinkade vi av alla våra gäster och styrde Anastacia mot marinan La Playita på Stilla havssidan, tacksamma över att ha haft så duktig och trevlig besättning med oss. Jodi och Magnus ville vara med för att få lite erfarenhet innan de själva skall ta sin båt genom kanalen. Charles hade ställt upp som linehandler förut och hade redan en del erfarenhet men tyckte att det var kul att få vara med en gång till. Han skall också själv ta sig över kanalen med sin båt om någon vecka. Tusen tack till er! Stort tack också till våra erfarna lotsar som båda var lugna, pedagogiska och inte tog några risker.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Nu ligger vi i hamn och skall strax klarera ut från Panama. Vi behöver ordna med några dokument och intyg för att sedan kunna ge oss av på en dryg veckas segling till Galapagos. Vi har aktiverat vår satellittelefon igen som kommer att uppdatera Anastacias position på bloggens förstasida varje timme. Familjen är underrättad och… Stilla havet, här kommer vi! 😊</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2048" data-original-height="1536" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/IMG-20241210-WA0008.jpg?1733858863?1733858863" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <br><em>Photo credit to Magnus Andersson</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><br></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241207_211918.jpg?1733859598?1733859598" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084706.jpg?1733859598?1733859598" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241208_084750.jpg?1733859598" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_084750.jpg?1733859598 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class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panama%20Canal/20241208_130356.jpg?1733859813?1733859813" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p> Tue, 10 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/december-2024/crossing-the-panama-canal /blog/december-2024/crossing-the-panama-canal Panamarina and Panama City Malin <div> <p class="MsoNormal">Panamarina is a really nice marina run by a French couple. There are good opportunities here to fix your boat on land with do-it-yourself workshops and tools for hire. If you want help, there are several craftsmen you can hire. However, our budget did not allow for anything other than doing the work ourselves. The marina also has a small but well-stocked ships chandlery with reasonable prices where you can write down what you take and pay at the end of your stay. Very smart by the owners and handy for us sailors who don't plan everything from the start but suddenly realize that a brush, scraper or epoxy may be needed. The restaurant serves good food and drinks at reasonable sailor’s prices. The marina is located by a mangrove swamp and well protected from the wind, so all boat owners are tyrannized by the colossal number of gnats that run rampant there! We had our fair share, even inside the boat as they managed to get through our mosquito nets.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">If you want to get to the nearest town, Linton, you just have to take the dinghy through the so-called tunnel of love, a small shortcut through the mangrove swamp. Then you have to zig-zag your way through the underwater reef to the village. In Linton there is another marina and many boats moored outside. Unfortunately, there are also an unusually large number of sailboat wrecks that have been lying here for various reasons. The authorities have difficulty regulating the dumping and scrapping of boats and the wrecks are now there in the bay, for various reasons. Some owners have died, others have been shipwrecked and complications with the insurance mean that the boats cannot be moved. A few more are dumped as the owners do not want to pay for salvage and scrapping. Sad to see but unfortunately not unusual ☹ A little further out in the bay are also some strange creations. They are floating, ultra-modern houses, so-called Seapods with all possible smart technology and use of the "internet of things", almost self-sufficient in electricity and water and... immensely expensive. Cool to look at though 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After two days and a cheerful Halloween celebration in Panamarina with decorations, costumes and not least live music with a drum-playing owner, we set off to the modern capital of Panama City for a short tour and a visit to the Miraflores Visitor's Center. Miraflores is located right at the canal locks to the Pacific Ocean. Here we learned more about the canal, which already in the 16th century germinated as an idea with the Spaniards who wanted to be able to easily get to the western part of South America. Only at the end of the 19th century did the French make a first, less successful attempt to build the canal. They had intended to dig the canal by an existing river but the project had to be abandoned as it proved too difficult to carry out. Slaves had been used for the construction and thousands succumbed to mosquito-borne diseases and large landslides. The United States later offered Panama independence from Colombia in exchange for canal rights in the country. They managed to overcome the diseases that ravaged the canal could be completed in 1914. Instead of just digging through the canal stretch, they had chosen to also dam high-lying areas and create artificial lakes and thus be able to complete the water passage more easily. Despite this, even then, many people died due to accidents and in total it is estimated that 27,500 workers succumbed, during the long period when the canal was being built. On December 31, 1999, the United States handed the canal over to Panama.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The highest point of the canal is 26 m above sea level and there are a total of 6 locks to pass through on the 77 km long stretch. As a curiosity, it can be mentioned that the locks were built with 8 m long and 910 kg heavy screws that were manufactured in Trollhättan  in Sweden by Trollhättan's Mekaniska Verkstad (later NOHAB). The large lathe machine that was used to manufacture the screws is said to have been called the "Panamas lathe " and was located in building No. 60 in the Nohab area. During our visit to the Miraflores Locks, we got to see a large catamaran pass through the locks followed by a giant freighter that made the 60-foot catamaran look like a dinghy in comparison.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a two-week stay in Sweden, we were able to continue our work with scraping, washing and hull-painting Anastacia in the boatyard at the marina. With the help of the crew of our boat neighbor, we installed the wind rudder and have sealed all the small damages the boat received during the storm in Colombia. Anchor box, anchor and chain got a "makeover" and since the spray markings we made on the chain every 10 meters were completely worn away, we now try instead to mark the lengths with pieces of red cotton tape (to avoid plastic). It will be interesting to see how long it lasts. We will get a little Christmas feeling as a bonus, every time we anchor 😊. Bimini, sprayhood and lazybag (bag for the mainsail) are cleaned and fixed but the fabric is starting to become brittle from all the sunlight. Where zippers have come loose, we have sewn on reinforcements and we hope that it will last until Polynesia or hopefully even longer... Speaking of sunlight, we also noticed that it, in combination with the heat, it causes plastic to shrink. My (Malin's) newly purchased black flip-flops had shrunk at least two sizes (!) during the time they were lying on deck in the sunlight, when we were away from the boat. New ones had to be bought in. The old ones will hopefully suit some younger kid... Digital as well as physical charts for the Pacific and Indian Oceans have been acquired. Christer also mounted an extra GPS antenna which he plugged in to our plotter to get better signal with more satellites and thus better positioning precision.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">During our time working on the boat, we made many friends at the marina and would often meet in the restaurant for a beer or two and discuss the various boat projects going on. French, Spanish and English was heard everywhere! Among other things, a complete renovation of a German-built catamaran is underway with a group of enthusiastic young people from different countries who work with the boat in various ways and realize the dream of being able to go out to sea one day. The renovation has been going on for a year and they are (only) halfway there but there is nothing wrong with their enthusiasm and the young captain aka the owner, is constantly chasing new money to be able to keep the project alive.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">On November 29th we were able to launch Anastacia and after refueling in Linton we motored to the mouth of the Panama Canal outside Shelter Bay where we are now at anchor. We had an extra pleasant first Advent (pre-Christmas period) surprise when we opened the secret gift we had received from Christer's brother Lennart, and his wife Tinne. Many thanks! 🙏 We celebrated with some Advent coffee in the evening together with our friends Jodi and Magnus from sailboat Lulu.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We are booked for canal-transfer on Saturday 7th December and are doing our best to prepare ourselves for the crossing. Lulu's crew will be linehandlers on Anastacia together with me and another sailor who also volunteered. We have received information about when and where ropes and fenders are to be picked up, as well as how the procedure is done with the Advisor from the canal authority who will accompany us and pilot Christer, the Captain, through the canal transit. Either we will get to go through the entire canal in one day, which means starting at four in the morning and ending late that evening or, we will get an afternoon time with two half-day passages with an overnight stay in the artificial Gatún lake. We are now preparing the boat for overnight guests and try to figure out what meals we will serve our guests and crew. But, more about the Canal in the next blog post!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Panamarina är en riktigt trevlig marina som drivs av ett franskt par. Här finns bra möjligheter för att fixa med sin båt på land med gör-det-själv-verkstäder och verktyg att hyra. Vill man ha hjälp finns flera hantverkare man kan anlita. Vår budget tillät dock inte något annat än att göra jobbet själva. Marinan har också en liten men välsorterad båttillbehörsbutik med rimliga priser där man kan skriva upp det man hämtar och betala i slutet av vistelsen. Väldigt smart av ägarna och behändigt för oss seglare som inte planerar allt från början utan plötsligt kommer på att en pensel, skrapa eller epoxy kan behövas. Restaurangen serverar god mat och dryck till rimliga seglarpriser. Marinan ligger vid ett mangroveträsk och väl skyddat för vinden så alla båtägare tyranniseras av den kolossala mängd knott som härjar där! Vi fick vår beskärda del, även inne i båten då de lyckades ta sig igenom våra myggnät. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vill man ta sig till närmaste ort, Linton, är det bara att ta dingen genom kärlekstunneln, en liten genväg genom mangroveträsket. Sedan får man sick-sacka sig genom undervattensreven fram till byn. I Linton finns ytterligare en marina och många båtar som ligger för ankar utanför. Tyvärr även ovanligt många segelbåtsvrak som av olika anledningar blivit liggande här. Myndigheterna har svårt att reglera dumpningen och skrotningen av båtar och vraken ligger nu där i viken, av olika anledningar. Vissa ägare har dött, andra har förlist och krångel med försäkringen gör att båtarna inte kan hämtas. Ytterligare några ligger dumpade för att ägarna inte längre vill kännas vid dem då de inte vill betala för bärgning och skrotning. Tråkigt att se men tyvärr inte ovanligt ☹. Lite längre ut i viken ligger också några märkliga skapelser. Det är flytande, supermoderna hus, s.k. Seapods med all tänkbar smart teknik och nyttjande av ”sakernas internet”, nästintill självförsörjande på el och vatten och… snordyra. Dock coola att titta på 😊</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efter två dagar och ett glatt halloweenfirande i Panamarina med pynt, utklädnader och inte minst livemusik med trumspelande ägare, gav vi oss iväg till den moderna huvudstaden Panama City för en kort rundtur samt besök på Miraflores Visitor's Center. Miraflores ligger precis vid kanalslussarna mot Stilla havet. Här fick vi lära oss mer om kanalen som redan på 1500-talet grodde som en idé hos spanjorerna som ville kunna ta sig till västra delen av Sydamerika på ett enkelt sätt. Först i slutet av 1800-talet gjorde fransmännen ett första, mindre lyckat försök att bygga kanalen. De hade föresatt sig att gräva kanalen vid en befintlig flod men projektet fick överges då det visade sig för svårt att genomföra. Slavar hade använts för bygget och tusentals dukade under av myggburna sjukdomar och stora jordskred. USA erbjöd senare Panama självständighet från Colombia i utbyte mot att få kanalrättigheterna i landet. Sjukdomarna som härjat lyckades man få bukt med och kanalen kunde färdigställas 1914. Istället för att bara gräva sig igenom kanalsträckan hade man valt att också dämma upp höglänta områden och skapa konstgjorda sjöar och på så sätt enklare kunna färdigställa vattenpassagen. Trots detta dog även då många människor på grund av olyckor och totalt räknar man med att 27 500 arbetare dukade under, under den långa period kanalbyggandet pågick. Den 31 december 1999 överlämnade USA kanalen till Panama.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Kanalens högsta punkt ligger 26 m över havsnivån och det är totalt 6 slussar att passera på den 77 km långa sträckan. Som kuriosa kan nämnas att slussarna bl a byggdes med 8 m långa och 910 kg tunga skruvar som tillverkades i Trollhättan av Trollhättans Mekaniska Verkstad (senare NOHAB). Den stora svarven som användes för att tillverka skruvarna lär ha kallats ”Panamasvarven” och fanns i byggnad 60 på Nohabområdet.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Under vårt besök vid Mirafloresslusarna fick vi se en stor katamaran passera i slussarna följd av ett gigantiskt fraktfartyg som fick den 60 fot långa katamaranen att se ut som en jolle i jämförelse.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efter två veckors vistelse i Sverige kunde vi fortsätta vårt arbete med att skrapa, tvätta och bottenmåla Anastacia på båtgården i marinan. Vi fick med båtgrannens hjälp monterat vindrodret och har tätat alla små skador som båten fick under stormen i Colombia. Ankarbox, ankare och kätting fick sig en ”makeover” och eftersom de spraymarkeringar vi gjort på kättingen var 10:e meter nötts bort helt, provar vi nu istället att markera längderna med bitar av röda bomullsband (för att undvika plast). Det blir spännande att se hur länge det håller. Lite julkänsla kommer vi att få på köpet, varje gång vi ankrar 😊. Bimini, sparayhood och lazybag (säck till storseglet) är rengjorda och fixade men tyget börjar bli skört av allt solljus. Där dragkedjor lossnat har vi sytt på förstärkningar och vi hoppas att det skall hålla fram till Polynesien eller förhoppningsvis ännu längre… Apropå solljus så märkte vi också att den, i kombination med värmen, får plast att krympa. Mina (Malins) nyinköpta svarta Flip-flops hade blivit minst två storlekar mindre (!) under tiden de legat på däck i solljuset, när vi varit borta från båten. Nya fick köpas in. De gamla passar förhoppningsvis någon yngre förmåga… Sjökort för Stilla havet och Indiska oceanen har införskaffats i digital och fysisk form. Christer monterade en extra GPS-antenn som han kopplade in för att få bättre mottagning med fler satelliter och därmed bättre precision för positioneringen för vår plotter.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Under tiden vi arbetade med båten fick vi många vänner på marinan och träffades ofta i restaurangen för en öl eller två och diskuterade de olika båtprojekten som pågick. Franskan, spanskan och engelskan flödade! Bl a pågår en helrenovering av en tyskbyggd katamaran med ett gäng entusiastiska ungdomar från olika länder som på olika sätt arbetar med båten och när drömmen att en vacker dag kunna ge sig ut på havet. Renoveringen har pågått i ett år och de har (bara) kommit halvvägs men entusiasmen är det inget fel på och den unge kaptenen tillika ägaren jagar hela tiden nya pengar för att kunna hålla projektet vid liv.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Den 29:e november kunde vi sjösätta Anastacia och efter tankning i Linton körde vi henne till Panamakanalens mynning utanför Shelter Bay där vi nu ligger för ankar. Extra trevlig första adventsöverraskning fick vi, när vi öppnade den hemliga present vi fått med oss från Christers bror, Lennart med fru Tinne. Tusen tack! 🙏Vi firade med lite adventsfika på kvällen tillsammans våra båtvänner Jodi och Magnus från båten Lulu.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Vi är bokade för kanalöverfart lördagen den 7:e december och håller som bäst på att förbereda oss inför överfarten. Lulu’s besättning ställer upp som ”linehandlers” på Anastacia tillsammans med mig och en annan seglare som också ställer upp. Vi har fått besked om när och var linor och fendrar skall hämtas upp liksom hur kanalmyndigheten gör med den kanalanställde rådgivare (Advisor) som skall följa med oss och lotsa kapen Christer genom kanalfärden. Antingen kommer vi att få gå igenom hela kanalen på en dag, vilket innebär start vid fyratiden på morgonen och slut sent samma kväll eller, så får vi en eftermiddagstid med två halvdagars passage med övernattning i den konstgjorda Gatúnsjön. Vi förbereder båten för övernattande gäster och besättning och funderar som bäst på vilken mat som vi skall servera. Men, mer om kanalen i nästa blogginlägg!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Panamarina, Halloween and boatwork</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_200956.jpg?1733251341?1733251341" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_212735.jpg?1733251341" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_212735.jpg?1733251341 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href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241031_213550.jpg?1733251341 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srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241117_090402.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101300.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2250" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241121_101342.jpg?1733253854 320w," 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760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_101712.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241123_112858.jpg?1733253854?1733253854" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4S1vJ-O8Vpg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em><br></em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Linton bay</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241125_132524.jpg?1733254925 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srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094349.jpg?1733254925?1733254925" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241130_094355.jpg?1733254925?1733254925" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Panama City and Miraflores locks</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_095736.jpg?1733255149?1733255149" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_100527.jpg?1733255149?1733255149" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_111534.jpg?1733260953?1733260953" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_135054.jpg?1733261002?1733261002" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1458" data-original-height="3000" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_141200.jpg?1733261033?1733261033" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_142042.jpg?1733261128?1733261128" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129" loading="lazy" data-original-width="3000" data-original-height="1458" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/20241102_152320.jpg?1733261129?1733261129" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><em>Screws for the Panama Canal locks at NOHAB in 1912. 8m long and 910kg each, photo from Innovatum's image archive.</em></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar Innovatums bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531" loading="lazy" data-original-width="2048" data-original-height="1661" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Panamarina/Panamaskruvar%20Innovatums%20bildarkiv.jpg?1733242531?1733242531" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p> </div> Mon, 02 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000 /blog/december-2024/panamarina-and-panama-city /blog/december-2024/panamarina-and-panama-city Marina Turtle Cay, Panama Malin <div> <p class="MsoNormal">The sailing to Panama was probably the most uneventful sailing we have had in a long time. The wind was so weak that we only made 3 knots. So that it wouldn't take too long, we had to motorsail the two days it took to get to the San Blas or Guna Yala archipelago, as the archipelago is now called. Not even a thunderstorm came our way, despite the area being known for its storms at this time of year. With such a calm and uneventful sailing, it was all the more fun that we had a fantastically clear sky. One morning, in the east just before sunrise, we caught sight of what we first thought was an airplane with a trail of icy smoke. Then we realized it was a comet as it wasn't moving forward. We had no idea that there would be any comet visible this fall, but once we consulted the eminent mobile app Star Walk 2, it turned out that it was probably the comet with the exciting name C/2023 A3 (Tsuchinshan-ATLAS) that we had seen. Cool, we thought, and felt very unique. Now, in retrospect, we understand that half the world probably also saw the comet and quite a few in Scandinavia also had an incredibly beautiful autumn with lots of northern lights, so we were definitely not particularly unique in terms of celestial phenomena, but the feeling was in any case genuine in the moment 😁</p> <p class="MsoNormal">In San Blas the plan was to just get our passports stamped by the migration authority at the tiny airport in Porvenir (today Gaigirgordub). The population on the islands almost all belong to the indigenous Guna people and it is their name on the islands that is now the official one. In the sailing community, however, the old names live on. The islands turned out to be pure paradise. A mistake of ours not to give these islands more time! Now we had a berth booked in Turtle Cay on the mainland and it was too late to change plans. On the way to Porvenir we passed several large reefs. Later we learned that these reefs until just a few years ago were islands. The warmer climate with melting ice makes the sea level rise so much that the islands are slowly washed away, one by one…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">When we arrived at Porvenir we were immediately greeted by two canoes full of women in colorful clothes. They belonged to the Guna people and wanted to sell some tourist-friendly handicrafts. After a lot of nagging, we finally bought a colorful bracelet. We would have preferred to buy their beautiful fabrics but that was not the kind of craft they sold. However, they wanted us to also buy one of their two flags that we could have had as a courtesy flag on the boat. Now, we were only going to stay one night so there was no flag purchased, but we were surprised that one flag had an inverted swastika as a symbol. That flag had been created in 1925 as a symbol of the indigenous people's revolution against Spanish rule. The swastika is an ancient symbol for both the Guna people and many other cultures and there are many different interpretations of what it represents depending on the culture and the direction of the four arms (clockwise or counterclockwise). We have read that it symbolizes everything from the sun and the winds, to representing the octopus that created the earth and all living things, according to a legend... In the case of the Guna people, it symbolizes a medicinal plant which is said to give increased knowledge and which seems to grow towards the four cardinal points. Unfortunately, the revolutionary flag soon became associated with the Nazi symbol and attempts were therefore made to modify it. Another new flag was produced in 2010 with 8 stars and two arms holding a bow and arrow. The newer flag is used in official contexts and is hoisted together with the Panamanian flag. Both flags are used and we saw both flags flying on the flagpoles at the airport where we were to check in. If you are interested, we can recommend a good page in Spanish (Google translate works well 😊) about the Guna people, the San Blas Archipelago and the history of the flags at: <a href="https://www.gunayala.org.pa/">https://www.gunayala.org.pa/</a> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a night at anchor outside Porvenir, we steered the boat towards Turtle Cay marina where we had booked a berth. Although Turtle Cay is quite isolated, far from any citiy, the marina is basically full of boats. Most boats do not have residents on board as many take the opportunity to leave the boat here during the rainy and thunder season. The marina is well protected, but we see the nocturnal thunderstorms passing by here and there. Now we have been here for two weeks and got to know other sailors who also have their boats here. We try to meet once a week and have dinner at the restaurant close to the marina. There’s always lots of boat-fix talk and you can ask and give each other advice about everything possible. Just like in most places we sailed to, there is also an online group here, which you can participate in via WhatsApp, where you give each other advice and help. There can be posted questions such as; In which part of the bay is it safest to anchor? Where can you buy fruit and vegetables? Does anyone have a type X tool I can borrow? Does anyone want to take over my old dinghy? Whose are these socks I found left behind in the marina laundry room today? Etc. 😉</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Turtle Cay is located by a nature reserve and apart from sea turtles that sometimes visit the beaches here, there is a very varied nature with lots of different animals and plants right next to the marina. We hear the howler monkeys calling daily and, with the help of Shawn on the boat Miet who has been here a long time and knows the area, we were finally able to see two tamarin monkeys jumping between the trees close to the marina. We have started walking longer tours on the trails in the area and hope to catch a glimpse of more animals. Here, for example, there will be sloths and anteaters, and we have already seen lots of different butterflies and birds, many of which we recognize from Colombia. On the boat we are sometimes visited by small gecko lizards and between the boats at night we can sometimes see the fish-catching bats that we recognize from the Caribbean islands. The restaurant owner here had to take care of a little sloth who lost his mother. A very cute toddler that she raises and that we got to take pictures of. Otherwise, it has been difficult to take pictures of the animals. They move way too fast. Much easier with the plants 😊.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">One of the boats at our dock unfortunately had an accident last week that could have ended very badly. The couple living on the boat wanted to charge the lithium battery for their AC they have in the boat. They had put the battery on charge overnight and at 11 o'clock in the evening they woke up to a bang. The battery had exploded and caught fire. The whole boat quickly filled with smoke but they managed to get out. Together with the closest boat neighbors, they were finally able to put out the fire with the help of several fire extinguishers, but only after the battery burned out. Luckily, there was no wind so the flames that shot up from the boat never moved towards the neighboring boats but the devastation in the sailboat was very great even though the hull is still intact and the engine seems to be working. It is still unclear whether the boat can be saved or whether it must be scrapped. The couple managed with minor burns and some lung problems, which are, however, temporary. We were all horrified by the incident and have tried to help them in various ways as most of their possessions have burned up or been smoke damaged. They have also shared their experiences regarding the fire itself and what you can think about if the accident were to happen. Luckily the fire didn't spread to the gas cylinders or fuel tanks! What we, for our part, were concerned about was that we never woke up from the tumult that arose on the dock. One conclusion that was drawn was that it is important to make sure that everyone on the dock is alerted if something like this were to happen. Anastacia is two boats away from the stricken sailboat and normally we should have heard something. We (especially Christer) usually wake up at the slightest deviation from "normal" sounds, but no! We had had two fans humming in the cabinet where we sleep which probably drowned out all other noise that night. Now we have arranged the fans a little differently so that we wake up more easily if something unusual happens. We have now also looked over the fire extinguishers in the boat and a few other things we got tips about that might be good to have documented vis-a-visthe insurance company should the accident occur. We've stopped charging our phones and other gadgets overnight and disconnect the shore power when we don't need it.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We will remain here in Turtle Cay until the end of October, then unfortunately we will have to change harbor to get the boat ashore as the marina here does not have a working lift and it does not look like it will be repaired in time - despite we had booked it long time ago. We have been tipped off by some boating neighbors about a small boat yard further west, closer to the canal, called Panamarina. There they have confirmed that they can haul the boat up so we can scrape and paint the hull. There we will also be able to repair the scratches and small holes in the stern that arose at the marina in Colombia after the storm there. The wind rudder will be reassembled with the new parts that we received + other maintenance that can only be done when the boat is on “the hard”. Between the 4th and the 15th of November, we will visit the family in Sweden and greet as many friends as we can. We look forward to that! Who knows. If it's a nice evening, maybe we'll also see some northern lights! 😊 Until we leave Turtle Cay, we dedicate ourselves to renewing our food supplies and cleaning inside Anastacia so she will be sparkling clean and beautiful, ready to face the Galapagos in December!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Seglingen till Panama var troligen den mest händelselösa seglingen vi haft på länge. Vinden var så svag att vi bara gjorde 3 knops fart. För att det inte skulle ta alldeles för lång tid fick vi motorsegla de två dygn det tog att ta sig till ögruppen San Blas eller Guna Yala som arkipelagen numera heter. Inte ens åskväder kom i vår väg, trots att området är känt för sina oväder den här tiden på året. Med en så lugn och händelsefattig seglats var det desto roligare att v fick en fantastiskt klar himmel. En morgon, i öster precis innan soluppgången, fick vi syn på vad vi först trodde var ett flygplan med en isröksvans efter sig. Sedan insåg vi att det rörde sig om en komet eftersom det inte rörde sig framåt. Vi hade ingen aning om att det skulle finnas någon komet synlig i höst men när vi väl fick konsulterat den eminenta mobilappen Star Walk 2 visade det sig att det troligen var kometen med det upphetsande namnet C/2023 A3 (Tsuchinshan-ATLAS) som vi sett. Häftigt, tyckte vi, och kände oss malligt unika. Nu, i efterhand förstår vi att halva världen säkert också sett kometen och rätt många i Skandinavien dessutom har haft en otroligt vacker höst med massor av norrsken så särskilt unika vad gäller himlafenomen var vi definitivt inte, men känslan var i alla fall äkta i stunden 😁</p> <p class="MsoNormal">I San Blas var planen att bara få våra pass stämplade av migrationsmyndigheten på den pyttelilla flygplatsen i Porvenir (idag Gaigirgordub). Befolkningen på öarna tillhör nästan alla ursprungsfolket Guna och det är deras benämning på öarna som nu är de officiella. I seglarkretsar lever dock de gamla namnen kvar. Öarna visade sig vara ett rent paradis. Ett misstag av oss att inte ge dessa öar mer tid! Nu hade vi en hamnplats bokad i Turtle Cay på fastlandet och det var för sent att ändra planerna. På vägen till Porvenir passerade vi flera stora rev. Senare fick vi veta att dessa rev till bara för några år sedan var öar. Det varmare klimatet med smältande isar gör att havsnivån höjer sig så pass mycket så att öarna sakta sköljs bort, en efter en…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">När vi kom fram till Porvenir blev vi genast hälsade av två kanoter fulla med kvinnor i färgglada kläder. De tillhörde Gunafolket och ville sälja lite turistanpassat hantverk. Efter mycket tjat köpte vi till slut ett färggrant armband. Vi hade gärna hellre köpt deras vackra tyger men det var inte den sortens hantverk de sålde. Däremot ville de att vi också skulle köpa någon av deras två flaggor som vi hade kunnat ha som gästflagga på båten. Nu skulle vi ju bara stanna en natt så det blev inget flaggköp men vi var förvånade över att den ena flaggan hade en omvänd svastika som symbol. Den flaggan hade tagits fram 1925 som en symbol för ursprungsbefolkningens revolution mot den spanska överhögheten. Svastikan är en urgammal symbol för både Gunafolket och många andra kulturer och det finns många olika tolkningar kring vad den föreställer beroende på kultur och riktning på de fyra armarna (medsols eller motsols). Vi har läst att den symboliserar allt från solen och vindarna, till att representera bläckfisken som skapade jorden och allt levande, enligt en annan legend... I Gunafolkets fall lär det symbolisera en medicinalväxt som sägs ge ökad kunskap och som ser ut att växa mot de fyra väderstrecken. Tyvärr blev revolutionsflaggan snart förknippad med nazisternas symbol och försök gjordes därför att modifiera den. Ytterligare ny flagga togs fram 2010 med 8 stjärnor samt två armar hållandes en pilbåge och en pil. Den nyare flaggan används i officiella sammanhang och hissas tillsammans med den panamanska flaggan. Båda flaggorna används och vi såg båda flaggorna vaja på flaggstängerna vid flygplatsen där vi skulle klarera in. Är man intresserad kan vi tipsa om en bra sida på spanska (Google translate funkar bra 😊) om Gunafolket, San Blasarkipelagen och flaggornas historia på: <a href="https://www.gunayala.org.pa/">https://www.gunayala.org.pa/</a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Efter en natt på ankar utanför Porvenir styrde vi kosan mot Turtle Cay marina där vi bokat plats. Även om Turtle Cay ligger ensligt, långt från större orter, så är marinan i princip full med båtar. De flesta båtar har inga boende ombord då många passar på att lämna båten här under regn- och åsksäsongen. Marinan ligger väl skyddad men vi ser de nattliga åskvädren dra förbi på håll. Nu har vi legat här i två veckor och bekantat oss med andra seglare som också har sina båtar här. Vi försöker träffas en gång i veckan och äta middag på restaurangen intill. Det blir mycket båtfix-snack och man frågar och ger varandra råd om allt möjligt. Precis som på de flesta platser vi seglat till finns det även här en onlinegrupp, som man kan delta i via WhatsApp, där man tipsar varandra och hjälps åt. Det ställs frågor som; I vilken del av viken är det säkrast att ankra? Var kan man köpa frukt och grönt? Har någon ett verktyg av typen X jag kan få låna? Är det någon som vill ta över min gamla gummibåt? Vems är dessa strumpor jag hittade kvarglömda i marinans tvättstuga idag? Etc. 😉</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Turtle Cay ligger vid ett naturreservat och förutom havssköldpaddor som ibland besöker stränderna här så finns det en väldigt varierad natur med massor av olika djur och växter alldeles intill marinan. Vi hör dagligen vrålaporna ropa och, med hjälp av Shawn på båten Miet som varit här länge och känner till området, kunde vi till slut få se två tamarinapor hoppa mellan träden på marinaområdet. Vi har börjat promenera längre turer på stigarna i området och hoppas kunna få en skymt av fler djur. Här skall det till exempel finnas sengångare och myrslokar och vi har redan fått se massor av olika fjärilar och fåglar, varav många vi känner igen från Colombia. På båten får vi ibland besök av små geckoödlor och mellan båtarna kan vi nattetid ibland se de fiskfångande fladdermössen som vi känner igen från de karibiska öarna. Restaurangägaren här fick ta hand om en liten sengångare som mist sin mamma. En jättesöt unge som hon föder upp och som vi fick ta kort på. I övrigt har det varit svårt att ta bilder på djuren. De rör sig alldeles för snabbt. Mycket enklare med växterna 😊.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">En av båtarna vid vår brygga råkade tyvärr ut för en olycka förra veckan som kunde slutat mycket illa. Paret som bor på båten skulle ladda litiumbatteriet till sin AC som de har i båten. De hade satt batteriet på laddning över natten och vid 11-tiden på kvällen vaknade de av en smäll. Batteriet hade exploderat och fattat eld. Hela båten rökfylldes snabbt men de lyckades ta sig ut. Tillsammans med närmaste båtgrannarna fick de, med hjälp av flera brandsläckare, till slut släckt elden men först efter att batteriet brunnit ut. Som tur var, var det helt vindstilla så lågorna som slog upp från båten rörde sig aldrig mot grannbåtarna men förödelsen i segelbåten blev mycket stor även om skrovet fortfarande är intakt och motorn verkar fungera. Det är fortfarande oklart om båten går att rädda eller om den måste skrotas. Paret klarade sig med lindrigare brännsår och lite lungproblem som dock är övergående. Vi blev alla förskräckta över händelsen och har försökt hjälpa dem på olika sätt då det mesta de ägde har brunnit upp eller blivit rökskadat. De har också delat med sig av sina erfarenheter kring själva branden och vad man kan tänka på om olyckan skulle vara framme. Tur i oturen att elden inte spred sig till gasflaskorna eller bränsletankarna! Vad vi, för egen del, blev bekymrade över, var att vi aldrig vaknade av det tumult som uppstod på bryggan. En slutsats som drogs var att det är viktigt att se till att alla på bryggan larmas om något liknande skulle hända. Anastacia ligger två båtar från den olycksdrabbade segelbåten och i vanliga fall borde vi ha hört något. Vi (särskilt Christer) brukar vakna av minsta avvikelse från ”normala” ljud, men icke! Vi hade haft två fläktar brummandes i ruffen där vi sover som antagligen överröstade allt annat ljud den natten. Nu har vi arrangerat fläktarna lite annorlunda så vi lättare vaknar ifall något ovanligt händer. Vi har nu också sett över brandsläckarna i båten och lite annat vi fått tips om som kan vara bra att ha dokumenterat gentemot försäkringsbolag om olyckan skulle vara framme. Vi har slutat ladda våra telefoner och andra prylar under natten och kopplar ur landströmmen när vi inte behöver den.</p> </div> <p>Vi kommer att ligga kvar här i Turtle Cay fram till slutet av oktober, sedan måste vi tyvärr byta hamn för att få upp båten på land då marinan här inte har en fungerande lyft och den ser inte heller ut att bli reparerad i tid -trots att vi hade bokat den sedan länge. Av några båtgrannar har vi fått tips på en liten hamn längre västerut, närmare kanalen, som heter Panamarina. Där har de bekräftat att de kan lyfta upp båten och ställa den på land så vi kan skrapa och bottenmåla den. Där kommer vi också kunna laga de skav och små hål i aktern som uppstod på marinan i Colombia efter stormen där. Vindrodret kommer att monteras upp igen med de nya delarna som vi fått levererat + lite ordna med annat underhåll som bara kan göras när båten ligger på land. Mellan den 4:e och den 15:e november kommer vi att besöka familjen i Sverige och hälsa på så många vänner vi hinner. Det ser vi fram emot! Vem vet. Blir det någon fin kväll kanske vi också får se lite norrsken! 😊 Fram tills vi lämnar Turtle Cay ägnar vi oss åt att förnya våra matförråd och rengöra Anastacia invändigt så hon blir skinande ren och glittrande vacker, färdig att möta Galapagos i december!</p><p><br></p><p><em>San Blas (Guna Yala) and Porvenir (Gaigirgordub)</em></p><p> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="3024" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_163710.jpg?1729461528?1729461528" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490px" height="240px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jOoojOm_KTs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_124644.jpg?1729461528?1729461528" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241002_130359.jpg?1729461528?1729461528" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><p><br></p><p>Turtle Cay marina and surroundings</p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PmlUs1rh_F8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241004_105715.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="1960" data-original-height="4032" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241018_083741.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"></p><iframe width="490px" height="240px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jO_Tjh8i0FQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><br></p><iframe width="490" height="240" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DyzCXi6SQ7I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br><p><br></p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 1500w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 760w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_480/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_093503.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="350" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> </p><p><img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" 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480w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_320/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742 320w," src="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_760/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_180541.jpg?1729461742?1729461742" width="250" sizes="(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px"> <img class="sbfancy" data-fancybox="gallery" rel="gallery" href="/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742" loading="lazy" data-original-width="4032" data-original-height="1960" srcset="https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_2100/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742 2100w,https://www.skipperblogs.com/media/cache/resolve/content_th_1500/content/b7bb0d43-7467-5cb2-9c84-56809f9e648f//userfiles/Turtle%20cay/20241016_201823.jpg?1729461742 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/blog/october-2024/marina-turtle-cay-panama /blog/october-2024/marina-turtle-cay-panama